Sighting In - First Optic

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Justin123

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Okay, need some advise. The forum search led me to other posts with others that seemed to know a heck of a lot more than I.

I got my first scope mounted it to my first AR, making sure it was leveled and lined up. Took it out to the range thinking I should be able to get this all sighted in relatively quickly.

Boy, was I ever wrong... I’m hoping the more experienced folks could share some tips and tricks, and really some guidance.

What I did do:
1) Leveled the rail with gun in a vice
2) Installed the rings and checked the level on the rings so that it matches level of the rail
3) Mounted the Scope and leveled it against the reference from the rail
4) Use Torque Drive to torque the scope

At the Range:
I was ambitious, I started at the 100m range thinking the scope would be close...not even, couldn’t figure out where the shots were going. I then transitioned to the 50m then the 25m range. I couldn’t get this sighted in I struggled to see where the shots were landing, I made small adjustments, occasionally got the odd puff of dirt but that’s it. I know my scope is way off, what I’m struggling with figuring out is how on earth do you track a shot when the scope is way out to see where it’s landing.

Optic: Nikon M-Tactical (1-6x MOA)

Thanks in Advance.
 
Use a much bigger paper target - 30" x 30" or more - even cardboard from an appliance / from a big screen TV box. You do not mention if you centered the reticle? Take a small mirror - hold against front of scope. Look through eyepiece - you will see reticle and it's reflection - adjust turrets until you get reticle and its reflection perfectly aligned - scope is now optically centered, which is where you want to start from.
Some folks use those lasers that insert into chamber to check scope alignment. Some use bore sighters that have studs that slide into bore from muzzle end or attach magnetically to the muzzle. I use a big piece of cardboard and short range, even after setting up initially with bore sighter.
 
Thanks Potashminer! - Optically centered I never did! - I'll give that a try and may cave and order me a bore sighter...Santa hasn't left yet right? :)
 
I helped a bud zero new scope and BCL102 the other day. After moving from 100 to 25 then 10 yards we got it on paper but bottomed out the scope's recticle adjustment down. I then looked at mounts, the rear mount was not 100% attached and was 1/8" above the rail.....

We removed the scope and mount and then after a few shots he was on paper.

I then realized we probably should have separated upper and lower and bore sighted it....might have noticed the improper mount right away.
 
SKScanuck said:
I helped a bud zero new scope and BCL102 the other day. After moving from 100 to 25 then 10 yards we got it on paper but bottomed out the scope's recticle adjustment down. I then looked at mounts, the rear mount was not 100% attached and was 1/8" above the rail.....

We removed the scope and mount and then after a few shots he was on paper.

I then realized we probably should have separated upper and lower and bore sighted it....might have noticed the improper mount right away.
Click to expand...

This... remove the upper and bore sight.
 
Here's a quick poor-man's bore bore sighter method that I use.

Go to the 50yrd range.
Remove upper receiver and remove the bolt.
Set receiver on a rest like sandbag etc that is stable.
Stand directly behind the receiver and look directly down the back of the receiver through the bore of the barrel.
Align the receiver so that you have a static subject/target in the middle of your sightline.
Without disturbing the setup, sight down the scope and carefully adjust the crosshairs or red dot so that it matches the middle of your sight picture though the receiver/barrel.
Reassemble your rifle and set it on a stable rest.
Fire one shot at your target and note the impact point, if you did the above correctly, you should not be too far off your mark.
Reset your rifle so that the crosshairs are on the same exact point as the test shot.
Without moving the rifle, adjust your crosshairs so that it matches the impact point of the first shot.
Fire a second round and you should be pretty much on the mark, enough that you could disl in the remaining difference.

It's a lot quicker and easier than it takes to read this.
 
Trinimon said:
Here's a quick poor-man's bore bore sighter method that I use.

Go to the 50yrd range.
Remove upper receiver and remove the bolt.
Set receiver on a rest like sandbag etc that is stable.
Stand directly behind the receiver and look directly down the back of the receiver through the bore of the barrel.
Align the receiver so that you have a static subject/target in the middle of your sightline.
Without disturbing the setup, sight down the scope and carefully adjust the crosshairs or red dot so that it matches the middle of your sight picture though the receiver/barrel.
Reassemble your rifle and set it on a stable rest.
Fire one shot at your target and note the impact point, if you did the above correctly, you should not be too far off your mark.
Reset your rifle so that the crosshairs are on the same exact point as the test shot.
Without moving the rifle, adjust your crosshairs so that it matches the impact point of the first shot.
Fire a second round and you should be pretty much on the mark, enough that you could disl in the remaining difference.

It's a lot quicker and easier than it takes to read this.
Click to expand...

Read that method in a book about the memoirs of a ww2 sniper. That`s how they taught them in sniper school to ball park the zero on the scoped k98. Works, I`ve tried it out. But there`s a lot to see through a .323 bore at 100 meters....
 
Start close in to get it on paper then move out. Sometimes it takes a while but adjust your hold on or off the paper and adjust as necessary to get it on target. I like a 50/200m zero for an AR.
 
Volhv said:
Read that method in a book about the memoirs of a ww2 sniper. That`s how they taught them in sniper school to ball park the zero on the scoped k98. Works, I`ve tried it out. But there`s a lot to see through a .323 bore at 100 meters....
Click to expand...

Lol, yeah, I guess there would be lots to see with larger bores.
 
You can set up a scope to be quite close for windage at 25yds and on paper at 100 (if it can be boresighted - pumps, 'most' semi's and lever actions are a problem) -- and elevation is a little bit of a crap shoot but if your mounts are designed for the rifle -- it should get you surprisingly close for windage ... and adequate for elevation at 25m and possible 100yd

as a suggestion - separate the upper with scope securely attached and place it on a flat chair (you can use a towel or other material to adjust) ... you will need about 15 paces distance between the chair and the 'aiming point'. For an aiming point use a vertical rod (approx 1/2-3/4" diameter) that is as close to perpendicular as you can get it placed against a fairly plain background) - I use a standing brass lamp and set this is up in my basement in subdued lighting - it helps to illuminate the vertical rod with a flash light to acquire it more easily while bore sighting.

With the bore ( your upper) laying flat on the chair so that the scope is situated directly above the bore .. move the upper until you can see the vertical rod through the bore. Ideally you will see a little light appearing equally on either side of the rod (your target) while looking through your bore.... then glance through your scope and the vertical scope reticle line should be lying directly over the rod ... move your eye back and forth between bore and scope to verify this ... remember due to parallax .. you must ensure your eye is in the centre of the exit pupil of the scope each time you check the reticle location on the scope or parallax will cause the image to appear to shift.

If the reticle is not lying in the centre of the rod .. adjust for windage ... until you are satisfied, just remember for this to work you need about 15-20 paces distance; a distinct vertical rod as your aiming point AND the bore and scope must be perpendicular to one another AND your eye must be centred in the scope exit pupil while you confirm the windage setting.

This is for windage ... as mentioned previously - elevation is a bit of a crap shoot but using two small strips of hockey tape on the vertical rod placed the same distance apart as your scope is above your bore ... AND if your eyes are pretty good ... you can use a similar technique for initial elevation settings and get a useful zero (ie on paper) for 100yds.

A little long winded but its one technique.


BTW ... it helps to ensure your scope reticle is in the 'mechanical' centre of the scope before you start this procedure
 
I have done this many times and have learned that starting at 100 is not the best way. (But if I have to start there, I take the upper off and bore sight at 100, first.)

After installing the scope, bore sight it. You can do this just aiming out the house window at something. Because the scope of a AR-15 sits 2 1/2" above the bore, the bore sighting has to be at an object a fair distance away. Across the room is not good, unless you aim at a mark about 2" above where you want to hit.

I prefer to fire the first shot at about 10 yards and make a gross adjustment. Repeat one more time, and then fire the next shots at 25 yards, placing the shots about 1.5" LOW of the aiming mark.

Only then am I ready to try 100.

In my experience. bore sighting is better than using a boresighter. I only boresight lever and semis where I can'y look down the barrel myself.

And OP, welcome to the real world of shooting. It is different than just reading and watching the Internet.

BTW, there is a way to zero at 100 (or 200 or 300) if you have a nice dirt berm to shoot into.

You need a buddy with a spotting scope or a scoped rifle. Look for an obvious clump of dirt, piece of clay bird to shoot at. When you and your buddy have agreed that you are both looking at the same thing - fire. he should see your strike kick up the dirt. From that he can call an adjustment in direction and size. Something like "You have to move right 2 feet and up about 6 inches."

You can do this shooting alone, too, but it is so much easier with a spotter.
 
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Trinimon said:
Lol, yeah, I guess there would be lots to see with larger bores.
Click to expand...

Out of curiosity I did a bit of math to calculate how much you would see at 25 meters. That value would double at 50, and quadruple at 100.
Barrel length and bore diameter are the factors.

16" barrel .223, at 25 meters you would see a spot 13.78 inches in diameter
18.5" barrel .223, at 25 meters you would see a spot 11.93 inches in diameter
24" barrel .323, at 25 meters you would see a spot 13.43 inches in diameter

So if you center it on a 12" target, you should get really close.
 
Volhv said:
Out of curiosity I did a bit of math to calculate how much you would see at 25 meters. That value would double at 50, and quadruple at 100.
Barrel length and bore diameter are the factors.

16" barrel .223, at 25 meters you would see a spot 13.78 inches in diameter
18.5" barrel .223, at 25 meters you would see a spot 11.93 inches in diameter
24" barrel .323, at 25 meters you would see a spot 13.43 inches in diameter

So if you center it on a 12" target, you should get really close.
Click to expand...

Yes you can see a lot while looking at a subject far away. The technique requires centering a subject in the middle of the sight picture. On the range, I try and center the bullseye target right in the middle of the barrel/receiver bore. The further back you can place your eye behind the bore, the tighter the field of view becomes. I've been doing this method for decades and it's never let me down.
 
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