sightron ffp vs sfp

prairie lover

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I kinda don't think too many people will see the question I asked at the end of my other thread about the siii vs the pst. so im looking at getting a sightron, and have to get one sight unseen as there is none around here.

does anyone have both sightron scopes, a siii ffp and sfp? reason I ask is I have read complaints of the sightron ffp not being visible in lower light on low powers. I want this scope for a savage build in 6mmbr. for steel targets and gopher patch work. the vortex according to specs on there wed site has a reticle over twice as thick, which probably wouldn't be nice on higher powers but will be nicer on low powers, and the vortex reticle has 3moa bars on the outside which help when zoomed back. the sightron website mentions no such thick bars on the outside. how is the sightron ffp reticle? or should I just forget it for all round use and go wit the sfp?
 
If you plan to vary magnification AND want the reticle subtension to stay constant, FFP is for you.

If you plan on shooting at targets at longer distances, odds are you will have the scope at 24X and leave it there so it really doesn't matter.

Unless you have a game that requires you to muck about with your scope, I rarely vary my mag and enjoy using the highest mag possible.

YMMV.

Jerry
 
If you plan to vary magnification AND want the reticle subtension to stay constant, FFP is for you.

If you plan on shooting at targets at longer distances, odds are you will have the scope at 24X and leave it there so it really doesn't matter.

Unless you have a game that requires you to muck about with your scope, I rarely vary my mag and enjoy using the highest mag possible.

YMMV.

Jerry

This was my thinking exactly when I bought mine Vortex. I went SFP...cheaper obviously....because I would always be at max range when shooting at the range. It was not bought to hunt with or measure distances.
 
With a SFP the only thing that changes at lower ranges is the sub tension lines right? They won't be any good for holdovers but you can still use the turrets for one up on any magnification , right?
 
With a SFP the only thing that changes at lower ranges is the sub tension lines right? They won't be any good for holdovers but you can still use the turrets for one up on any magnification , right?

You can still use the hash marks on a SFP scope at various magnifications but you have to realize the distance between them is not constant....say if at 24 power they are 2 MOA, then at 12 power they will be 4 MOA. :)
 
You can still use the hash marks on a SFP scope at various magnifications but you have to realize the distance between them is not constant....say if at 24 power they are 2 MOA, then at 12 power they will be 4 MOA. :)
I'm in the same predicament as OP. But I have no intention of using sub tensions for hold overs etc. I plan on using a rangefinder and using my dials. So I guess either the SFP or FFP should be good for me. I'll be target shooting and hunting at all distances.
 
Ffp is better all around.
Only downside is at max mag the reticle can be a little thick. I've only found that to be an issue when shooting elr, or trying to shave a .4 group down to the .2's.
 
Ffp is better all around.
Only downside is at max mag the reticle can be a little thick. I've only found that to be an issue when shooting elr, or trying to shave a .4 group down to the .2's.
Not sure what ELR is but I will be trying for smallest groups possible.
 
With a SFP scope wouldn't the sub tensions have to be matched with one specific cartridge in order to work correctly? And if you find that one cartridge, load , whatever wouldn't it have to be 100% identical each time you use the sub tensions for a hold over?
 
My zeiss had holdover sub tensions but in order to correctly use them you need to use their calculator, it will tell you what setting the sub tensions are accurate.
 
There are benefits to both, i like how my sub tensions are always true but don't like how fine the reticle is on low power. With my 4-16 Viper its a bit hard to see the reticle on 4x. I choose to dial my elevation and constant windage variables(spind drift, coriolis) but i always hold for wind due to how much it varies. I find it easier to make corrections by just holding more or less wind. I mostly shoot by myself so its nice to be able to dial the magnification back on my scope to help spot my own shots. With that said i just purchased a 2nd focal plane leupold but the max power of that scope is 12x, so i should still be able to spot for myself when at max power, this would be harder if you had a 22 or 24 power sfp scope that needs to be at full magnification for the reticle to read correct. Just my two cents.
 
what im worried about is that it will be too small for the coyote at 200 yards at 6 power.

If hunting is on your agenda, I wouldn't consider the 6-24 in either version. Assume you are calling in Coyotes?

That might mean engagement at 40 ft or 400yds. For this type of application, I would strongly recommend the STAC2.5-17.5X56 IRMOA or IRMH scope. I tried hunting with my SIII6-24 but found the 6X too high for close quick shots.

For LR shooting, this is one of my faves but for hunting, closer shots, fast engagement, and similar... I use the STAC.

Jerry
 
With a SFP scope wouldn't the sub tensions have to be matched with one specific cartridge in order to work correctly? And if you find that one cartridge, load , whatever wouldn't it have to be 100% identical each time you use the sub tensions for a hold over?

Nope, with a SFP, the reticle sub tensions are only true at one magnification setting for a variable power scope. That is usually the highest magnification but not always so. You have to stop thinking in inches/centimeters/feet/what ever for hold over and use the reticle. If you are shooting at a piece of paper, no matter the distance and no matter at what magnification (FFP scope or SFP scope at corrrect power) you can just look at the bullet hole in the paper and measure the distance from your point of aim to the impact point with the reticle and correct your shot with the reading. For example, If in MOA and your shot is 1.5 MOA low and 2.5 MOA left, then just adjust your scope turrets 1.5 MOA up and 2.5 MOA right. Your next shot should be right on target. If you are shooting at an animal, use a range finder for distance (if possible) and adjust the turrets based on your own bullet data or manufacturers data for drop and read the wind for left right.

With matching turrets and reticles you won't need a calculator.
 
So both scopes being = using a crosshair only. No hold ove , just the dials. Which one would be better ? FFP or SFP ? From 100 to 600 yards? And what do you notice in the difference between 17.5 and 24 power at 600 yards ?
 
With a SFP scope wouldn't the sub tensions have to be matched with one specific cartridge in order to work correctly? And if you find that one cartridge, load , whatever wouldn't it have to be 100% identical each time you use the sub tensions for a hold over?

I think you are getting muddled with the various reticles on the market today so let's cover things simply and briefly.

SFP - subtension of reticle changes with mag - apparent size of reticle stays the same
FFP - subtension of reticle is constant with mag change - apparent size of the reticle changes.

Hash or Picket Fence reticles - like a ruler, each spacing is the same

BDC reticle - each spacing is DIFFERENT and is supposed to correspond to the drop of groups of ballistically equal cartridge/bullet combos.

For target shooting, the hash/picket fence reticle is the most useful as there are constants that work with EVERYTHING. If going SFP, you just need to know the spacing value for the mag settings you mostly use. For my targets at and beyond 200yds, I am going to be at 24X more often then not... in my STAC 17.5X... in my competition rifles 32 to 40X. If under 200yds, I dont need to hold over for anything.

For BDC reticles, FFP is ideal.. or know the mag you need to get the subtension correct.

If using the reticle for holdover or windage, use it... I don't do the math per se because I am not going to dial as I likely don't have time to dial. If I make a shot and it lands 2 lines to the right, I don't care what the value in MOA or MH is... I just hold over 2 lines to the left and as long as the wind hasn't changed... send it.

If you have time to play with the dials, you have time to do the math so...

SFP or FFP is like MOA or MH... go with what you feel works best. Neither is perfect and there are compromises to their useage. Regardless of the system, you must understand how it works... nothing is "no brainer".

YMMV

Jerry
 
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