simplest way to raise poi?

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brybenn

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Hey all. A couple months ago I bought a savage 300 wm off the EE and it has sat in the rack ever since. I just didn't have the time. A buddy called and asked if I had a rifle he could borrow so I says I got a 300 you can use. I topped it with a Bushnell 3-9x50 ultra hd and not having any brass I bought several boxes of various ammo and went to the range. Long story short my poi is a good 12" low at 100 yards. I maxed out the elevation turret so I switched brands of ammo. Wasted a lot of ammo this morning only to come home unsatisfied.
I have weaver low rings on the standard savage 2 piece mounts.
Should I try higher rings or buy a 20 moa rail? I've never had this issue before. Considering the Winchester power points could be pushed in with my finger it grouped About 1.5" at 100 yards. Just a foot low. Other brands were in the same general group
What's the simplest fix and what's the proper fix?
I plan to sit this gun into an mdt chassis eventually
 
Sounds like you will need to install a shim. Under the base is preferable. Recommended to keep the elevation adjustment range at mid point and use a shim of the proper thickness to correct the misalignment. Use the elevation adjustment for fine tuning.
 
Taller rings won't help...

Double and triple check your mounts and rings for proper installation.

If you have calipers, check the height of each ring from base to lower inside surface... or place them together side by side and eyeball to insure that there is not a defect in height.

If you have other bases and rings try a new configuration... if not, you will have to shim the rear base.

Return the scope stadia to optical center before retesting whichever new set-up you go with.
 
I've made simple shims from cheap feeler gauges as you can control the amount of sight elevation quite accurately to get the scope sighted in near the middle of its adjustment. It sounds like there is a flaw in the bases to get that much out of alignment
 
hunter5425 said:
I've made simple shims from cheap feeler gauges as you can control the amount of sight elevation quite accurately to get the scope sighted in near the middle of its adjustment. It sounds like there is a flaw in the bases to get that much out of alignment
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OR a bad scope... would be a good idea to try another scope also...
 
High rings won't help. These things usually come down to a mounting issue. Wrong bases, receiver low on one end requiring shims or the ever popular windage adjustable bases screwing with you. Believe it or not it is very common to have a scope cranked so far to the side that the erector assembly doesn't have much room to move up and down. You know that your scope is bottomed out in one direction, check to see how much travel there is in total and compare that to the spec sheet or to the windage travel.

Start at the beginning with a straight edge across the bases. Without doing the math, .001" misalignment on the bases is worth approximately 1" at 100, or 1 MOA if you want to think of it that way.

Crooked or misaligned barrels happen too. You did buy it used.
 
Check your model and check the bases are correct. There are flat rear receiver 110's and round ones. Weaver 46/46 for round, 61/46 for flat rear.
 
Bought the 46. That sure brings the objective bell close to the barrel. My bikini covers don't fit now. Since its over 100 degrees ill try again in the am on my way home from work

Thanks for the quick replies
 
now that the scope is off, zero it , use sturdy v block (small box with 2 v cuts on the top) rotate and adjust till you have dead zero for each 1/4 turn of the scope. with the scope at dead zero, any misalignment is in the mountings.
 
brybenn said:
I use a mirror. Not sure I understand your method of zeroing a scope by rotating it 1/4 turn. Could you explain a little more please
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I think he's giving a method to just make sure the crosshairs are centered before you mount it. If you place it in a v-block of some sort and rotate the scope 1/4 turn through 4 turns and the crosshairs don't move on whatever they are pointing at then the crosshairs are theoretically centered in the tube. I just count turns and center it that way or do the mirror thing. Many ways to get to the same end point.
 
I made a nice sturdy box with v notches cut at the top. set your free scope in the notches. find something to sight on over 100 yds. pick a spot, and rotate the sight in the notches while sighting. if the center moves the sight isn't dead center, adjust till the crosshairs stay on target even when the scope is rotated. this is how the scope should come out of the factory.
 
Similar thing happened to me but mine was 8 feet high at 100 yards and ran out of adjustment. Someone at the store put the wrong base back in the wrong bag. Got different ones and all was well.
 
Ahhh I got it now.
Anyway I hit the range today. First shot at 25 yards was 3" low and 1/2" to the right. Did the adjustment and the second shot printed directly under the tack I was aiming at. Considering the range and the 50 mm lens I went back to a 100 yards and poi was 6" high dead center. I dropped it down and fired another round. I left it 2" high at 100 yards. Figure it will be just about perfect at 200. I'll sight it in while I'm up north and can get a further shot but for now it's shootable. Although 1.5" group at 100 yards for 3 shots. Thanks for the replys. Wrong rear base was the cause. It's my fault for not checking when I replaced the front base due to damage during shipping
 
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