Single or Double Action Revolver?

The real question is....

Do you want to feel like a cowboy or a 70's cop?.....

Chuck's two simple lines very nicely sum up what the others said in more detail.

My own thinking is that if you're not after something specific such as a Dirty Harry Model 29 then a single action Super Blackhawk is just fine for a cylinder or two giggles to close out the day at the range. And with a little practice an SA can actually be shucked clean and reloaded in only a few more seconds than a DA gun.

As for speed of shooting why do you want to blow them all away in a few seconds? The whole point is that each round should be savoured and fully enjoyed. Having said that if you doubt that an SA revolver can be shot fast then look up some cowboy shooting records on You Tube. SA revolvers can easily be shot as fast as a DA gun... unless the shooter is Jerry Miculek. In that case it would go to Jerry and his DA gun by a smidge.

Shooting a "fourty something" pretty much has the bank account begging the shooter to get into reloading. I can reload a full house .44Mag round for the cost of a single for about 2/3's or less of the cost of a factory .38Spl. Or about the same as a round of 9mm that was found on sale.

Along that line I love to load up near max loads of 2400 under 240 or 200 gn bullets because these medium to lighter options enhance the fireball effect out the cylinder gap and muzzle. And a big huge fireball either indoors or at near dusk really adds to the entertainment.
 
I've held both, fired both and I prefer DA as the grip angle fits my hand better. It seems all SA have a very short grip as all the ones I've seen have an extreme curve. so I picked based on feel. Then after that, the Smiths just felt nicer than the Rugers so I went S&W for my wheel guns. my Semi auto collection is overrun with Rugers though

The short grips for SAs (I've heard) are called gunfighter's grips. It allowed the recoil of the gun to tilt the gun up enough for the thumbs of the firing hand to #### the hammer.
I do prefer a fuller grip than those very small and thin ones.
A fellow handgun-club member told me that the Bisley grips are easier to hold and shoot. (or more pleasant.)
To me they're not as pleasing to the eye as the classical Western gunfighter grip.
 
I haven't read the whole thread so if it's already been mentioned disregard but, a single action can be a bit of a pain to make safe at the range (remove cyl) vs. double where the cylinder is on a crane.
Something to consider.

At ours you just put it down with the loading gate open and the RO does pick it up and rotate the cylinder. I recently acquired a Ruger Single-10 and the joke was that I was trying to make RO'ing even harder for the other ROs (I'm an RO myself.)
 
OP you should consider the cost if your not reloading. The price of 44 mag will break yor wallet. You can get some good hot 357 mag that will shoot flames and shoot cheap 38's. But I know there is nothing like shooting a 44mag, just my 2 cents

not necessarily-like everything else , it depends on WHERE you shop, and the demand - one local charges within 3 dollars for 357 or 44 depending on demand- the 357 is far more popular and he feels that he can charge a premium for the word MAGNUM- the 44s don't move so well, so he flogs them at a discount- sometimes even cheaper than the 357 if the "mood " strikes him-one of the biggest lures is the 44 mag "hunting" ammo from canadian tire
it's priced CHEAPER than 38/357, but READ ON- it's ONLY 20 ROUND PACKS- that has deluded many folks into buying it
 
I haven't read the whole thread so if it's already been mentioned disregard but, a single action can be a bit of a pain to make safe at the range (remove cyl) vs. double where the cylinder is on a crane.
Something to consider.

that's a RANGE RULE, or maybe a PROVINCIAL ; you certainly DON'T have to on any of the ranges i frequent- and it's STUPID one at that- next thing will be blocking the hammer with a piece of wood( i've seen that) or taking off the grips
 
t-star are you alright? I'm sorry that the range you frequent is a stupid one, and I don't know what laws are involved that obligates the shooter to ensure that his firearm is safe, if there are any laws involved at all. Can I be "charged" with a criminal offence if I fail to "prove" my firearm safe?...I think not. However don't be surprised if an RO asks you to "make safe" for any number of reasons aside from a target change. When such a command is given, an RO ought to be able to walk down a firing line prior to going green and SEE that all arms are safe. This is very hard to do with a single action while the cylinder is in the gun. Some RO's maybe comfortable checking every chamber of someones revolver EVERY time "make safe" is called...{how about semi's? why not just leave 'em closed on the table...RO will check right?}. Most of {I'm being polite, read all} the RO's I know won't do this. It is the shooters responsibility to show the RO that the gun is empty and safe not the other way around.

Now; blocking hammers with bits of wood or having to take grips off make absolutely no sense to me whatsoever. Please explain how these actions can make a gun "safe"????
 
t-star are you alright? I'm sorry that the range you frequent is a stupid one, and I don't know what laws are involved that obligates the shooter to ensure that his firearm is safe, if there are any laws involved at all. Can I be "charged" with a criminal offence if I fail to "prove" my firearm safe?...I think not. However don't be surprised if an RO asks you to "make safe" for any number of reasons aside from a target change. When such a command is given, an RO ought to be able to walk down a firing line prior to going green and SEE that all arms are safe. This is very hard to do with a single action while the cylinder is in the gun. Some RO's maybe comfortable checking every chamber of someones revolver EVERY time "make safe" is called...{how about semi's? why not just leave 'em closed on the table...RO will check right?}. Most of {I'm being polite, read all} the RO's I know won't do this. It is the shooters responsibility to show the RO that the gun is empty and safe not the other way around.

Now; blocking hammers with bits of wood or having to take grips off make absolutely no sense to me whatsoever. Please explain how these actions can make a gun "safe"????

like i said, it makes no sense, but it's a range rule; the block of wood MUST BE INSERTED between the hammer and the back of the gun so the hammer CANNOT STRIKE THE FIRING PIN;as for the grips , i was being faceitous
most of the ranges i frequent require on the make safe command, mags out, actions locked to the rear,or in the case of revolvers , cylinders out ,, in the case of single actions, simply opening the loading gate- moreover, you MISTERPETED what i said; i said that the rule that requires you to remove your cylinder is STUPID; not that my range has stupid rules - how the heck you got that from my original statement is beyond me;must be all that tea you sassenach drink
 
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When such a command is given, an RO ought to be able to walk down a firing line prior to going green and SEE that all arms are safe. This is very hard to do with a single action while the cylinder is in the gun.


If the loading gate is open; The hammer cannot be cocked, and the trigger can't be pulled.

The gun cannot possibly fire, even if you did have a round hiding inside it.

I call that safe enough.
 
If the loading gate is open; The hammer cannot be cocked, and the trigger can't be pulled.

The gun cannot possibly fire, even if you did have a round hiding inside it.

I call that safe enough.

That's the case for the Ruger "new model" whatever single actions. But the Italian replicas from Pietta, Uberti and others along with any of the old three screw Rugers mimic the original Colt action where the gate is simply a gate. Such guns can happily #### and shoot with the gate open.

The proper way for an RO to check is to lift up the gun and spin the cylinder on any single action. It's not prudent to assume that it's a new model with the action lockout style gate.
 
For pure target work it's hard to dismiss an older Dan Wesson in 44 Magnum. Especially when it's an eight inch recoil absorbing full length of barrel underlugged shroud. A Colt Anaconda is about the same IMO. Although mine has a six inch pipe.
44Mag001.jpg
 
Thanks all for the input and helping me decide. I went with a Ruger Superblackhawk single action:

blackhawk113.jpg


I like the fact that it takes a little more interaction with the pistol to load and unload (fun!), the fact that there are fewer components and so in my opinion more durable, safer (in my opinion) to carry in a holster AND so Clint Eastwood like :D

Again, very much appreciated folks!
 
Well, that option certainly works too.... :D

With all the initial talk I thought you were after a .22 revolver. Or if that is how your search started out then you sure know how to take serious side paths.... :D

Shooting a "fourty something" caliber gun will soon put you into the poor house unless you get into reloading. You may want to make that your next priority.
 
Well, that option certainly works too.... :D

With all the initial talk I thought you were after a .22 revolver. Or if that is how your search started out then you sure know how to take serious side paths.... :D

Shooting a "fourty something" caliber gun will soon put you into the poor house unless you get into reloading. You may want to make that your next priority.

I reload so no worries there :D

Cheers.
 
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