Size a primed case

For rifle since the decapping rod has the expander button on it I just size and decap then reinstall the primer.
For 44 mag and 45-70 which don't have an expander button I do indeed just remove the decapping rod as it saves a step.

Not that there is any risk in decapping live primers. Yet another reloading myth like not to tumbling loaded ammo and absolutely requiring magnum primers in cold weather.
 
i have yes, it's a pain to remove the pin though (lee dies anyway) so i just size/deprime and then reprime it with the removed primer.
 
I've had to do this once when I accidentally mixed a handful of unsized cases with sized ones. No probs. Just remove the decapping pin and you're good to go.
 
It doesn't destroy the primer?

which? regardless if you mean resizing without a decapping rod or if you mean depriming it and then using it again, no as long as it's done correct. however i did have some brass with a super tight primer pocket and when i removing a live primer it had a dent in it. as well if a primer went in upside down it can leave a small dent, but they've always fired in my plinking ammo. i wouldn't do it for precision ammo or hunting ammo.
 
Yup I've done it a couple times, upside down primer, primed a case that had skipped the neck sizer acidentilly. Just be carefull, go slow. If you are wanting to be super safe then just kill the primer with a drop of water before hand then reprime.
 
Just curious about destroying a live primer.
I've resized primed cases but I usually take out the decapping rod, run them full length to bump the shoulder back then put the rod back in and just short stroke the press and resize the neck.
 
just kill the primer with a drop of water before hand then reprime.
Pretty much all modern primers have the priming compound lacquer coated inside the cup. They will still detonate when soaked in penetrating oil most of the time so I don't see water being enough. I've never tried detonate wet primers so I could be wrong but I don't see it working in my mind.

Just curious about destroying a live primer.
I've resized primed cases but I usually take out the decapping rod, run them full length to bump the shoulder back then put the rod back in and just short stroke the press and resize the neck.
You aren't "destroying a live primer" but simply pushing a live primer out of a case. You can't slam down hard on the press to remove live primers as you can knock the anvil out of the cup and render it useless. The primer doesn't detonate without a very sharp strike; even gradual crushing pressure wont detonate a primer (at least not for me when I've purposely crushed primers in a controlled environment to see if it would detonate).
 
Pretty much all modern primers have the priming compound lacquer coated inside the cup. They will still detonate when soaked in penetrating oil most of the time so I don't see water being enough. I've never tried detonate wet primers so I could be wrong but I don't see it working in my mind.


You aren't "destroying a live primer" but simply pushing a live primer out of a case. You can't slam down hard on the press to remove live primers as you can knock the anvil out of the cup and render it useless. The primer doesn't detonate without a very sharp strike; even gradual crushing pressure wont detonate a primer (at least not for me when I've purposely crushed primers in a controlled environment to see if it would detonate).

primers that have been soaked with rem oil and water will still go off, but with much less force. i never bothered to let them dry out and see if they would go off though. some didn't go off at all though with just water/oil.

i've crushed several when my pro1000 jams up, here is one i got angry with and crushed it as much as the press would let me,
primer.jpg
 
I have pushed out live primers with the press, both ones that were in backwards and forwards, going slowly... I have never had one go off in the press. My experience is that short of a hard blow they will not fire, and even if one fired in the press it should not be the end of the world, as all it can do is get shot into the catcher. There should be no powder around for it to light..
 
Provided there is enough neck tension to hold the bullet, you could load the cartridge and run it through a Lee Factory Crimp Die. These dies are relatively inexpensive, and quickly uniform the outside case dimensions in addition to applying the crimp.
 
primers that have been soaked with rem oil and water will still go off, but with much less force. i never bothered to let them dry out and see if they would go off though. some didn't go off at all though with just water/oil.

i've crushed several when my pro1000 jams up, here is one i got angry with and crushed it as much as the press would let me,
primer.jpg

They do go off on occasion. When one does, it will likely cure your anger management issues....
 
Can you size a primed case (9mm)? I know that I would have to take the depriming pin out, has anyone done this?

A 9mm Lee factory crimp die has a carbide sizing ring in the bottom of the crimping die, therefore this die always sizes a primed and loaded case. Therefore you can resize a primed case and not fear getting a free ride to the moon, across the room, etc.

Just wear safety glasses and don't make a habit of looking in the top of the die as you pull the handle of the press. (Wile E. Coyote humor)

wile-e-coyote_zpsc3b2d16a.jpg


And yes I have done this, just don't it with a loaded round because it will "OVER" compress the bullet and make the bullet a few thousandths "SMALLER".
 
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