What kinda accuracy are you guys getting with your sks? It was kinda weird at 100 yards i was all over the place but at 200 yards i could hit the 8" steel plate 2-3 times out of every 5 shot clip this is all by irons btw. Also when you guys clean after shooting the corrosive ammo, what parts do you pour boiling water on? Down the barrel obviously, but what other parts? I'm just trying to speed up my cleaning process, i currently power it over everything, then hit with with wd40, then oil everything up, then move onto regular cleaning. I'm guessing this is over kill because it takes much to long and its becoming a chore.
sks accuracy and cleaning questions(yes another)
- Thread starter stoop14
- Start date
I pour boiling water into gas port, and down barrel. Clean everything else with brake cleaner, then normal products.
Well what do you has your sights set on? The bottom notch is actually 300yrds so could make sense that it gets better closer to that range, but I don't have any proem using the 300yd at 100
Well what do you has your sights set on? The bottom notch is actually 300yrds so could make sense that it gets better closer to that range, but I don't have any proem using the 300yd at 100
My accuracy is not the best with mine. Another member jokingly suggested minute of pie plate accuracy with the SKS. 
I hit a 4 inch diameter swinger at 50 yards 4 out of every 5 shots.
I use boiling water in the barrel, in the gas port and over the piston. Then I wash the piston and cylinder with varsol, wipe dry then oil. Then I run a varsol soaked soft brush through the bore then varsol soaked patches till they come out clean. A couple of dry patches come next, then an oily patch. Takes me about 20 minutes.
I can sympathize with the time factor, and that I have do it as soon as I get home. It used to take me an hour. That's the bad thing about corrosive ammo. I guess we just live with it.
I hit a 4 inch diameter swinger at 50 yards 4 out of every 5 shots.I use boiling water in the barrel, in the gas port and over the piston. Then I wash the piston and cylinder with varsol, wipe dry then oil. Then I run a varsol soaked soft brush through the bore then varsol soaked patches till they come out clean. A couple of dry patches come next, then an oily patch. Takes me about 20 minutes.
I can sympathize with the time factor, and that I have do it as soon as I get home. It used to take me an hour. That's the bad thing about corrosive ammo. I guess we just live with it.
- Location
- Alberta Free State
Good video of hot water cleaning on youtube here:
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=5bf0J6Taue4
I pour boiling water through the barrel from the receiver end, and through all the parts of the gas system I can reach. I've never used brake cleaner. If I've been shooting a whole bunch of corrosive, I'll use the bronze brush from the cleaning kit along with the boiling water. Pour a bit, scrub the brush, pour some more, scrub the brush. You can see the soot-black water coming out.
If I'm in the field and won't be able to clean with boiling water within a reasonable time, I'll pour in water with some household ammonia added through the barrel and every part of the gas system I can reach, to kill the corrosive salt action. YMMV - seems to work for me. A one-gallon plastic milk jug and about half-a cup of ammonia seems to be strong enough, and I could probably use less ammonia, like in Windex.
With this method, I then dry-patch, and then do a normal cleaning.
With the boiling water, I blow out any remaining water that might be lurking in the gas block, ports, etc. with compressed air, then clean the rifle normally. NB: after pouring in boiling water, that steel is HOT! Wear gloves.
After that. BreakFree CLP is good, so is G93, so is Hoppes, even varsol (get the odorless kind) - pick your poison. I usually find the patches are really, really filthy when I start. I push about four solvent soaked patches through once and toss them - no scrubbing. Then, I use a patch soaked in cleaner/solvent, and scrub the bore. They get black really fast. Eventually, I get clean patches. About two dry patches next. At that point (and having cleaned out the gas system, everything gets a wipedown with oil or G93.
Seems to work - no rusted guns.
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- Location
- Alberta Free State
Yep, especially the bolt carrier and firing pin. Just forgot to mention it.
I solve all my cleaning problems when i started to buy non corrosive MFS ammo 11.00 for 20 SP, i go 300 rounds without cleaning and when i do it is barely dirty, and as a bonus that ammo give me 3 inch groups all day long.... shooting cheap commie ammo is a lot of work, kind get the fun out of it... JP.
Mine's marginally better than that...i can usually hit 5/5 on a 4 inch target at 50. That's 8 moa though
Out at 100, it keeps em within 6 inches or so. Not too bad for a $175 rifle that scares the crap out of your mother in law.Mine's marginally better than that...i can usually hit 5/5 on a 4 inch target at 50. That's 8 moa though
Thats some funny chit mwjones... Id sooner bang the hell out of my commie bh and then clean her up at 20 cents a pop.
Gunzilla
Same here. After a few patches soaked with water or Windex I then clean with Gunzilla. No rust no-where, no-how, never. I use this method on SKS and CZ 858 when shooting corrosive ammo. If boiling water makes others happy then let them boil away. Success is all that counts.
Same here. After a few patches soaked with water or Windex I then clean with Gunzilla. No rust no-where, no-how, never. I use this method on SKS and CZ 858 when shooting corrosive ammo. If boiling water makes others happy then let them boil away. Success is all that counts.
The hot metal parts from the hot water dries in seconds. Oil down the bore and wd 40 everywhere else,... shines my guns up very well, with no rust.
It doesnt have to be boiling... just hot water from the tap works for me.
Muzzleloader Breech Cleaners
Just thought of something else. I was recently at the range and saw a guy cleaning his muzzle loader. He had these plastic pipe cleaners made especially to scrub the port where the percussion cap is put. They are yellow and have crunchy plastic bits on the surface. They are also tapered and easy to cut to the desired size. They are made by CVA and are called Muzzleloader Breech Cleaners. They are great for cleaning SKS gas port and the firing pin hole in the bolt. Bass-Pro sells them.
Just thought of something else. I was recently at the range and saw a guy cleaning his muzzle loader. He had these plastic pipe cleaners made especially to scrub the port where the percussion cap is put. They are yellow and have crunchy plastic bits on the surface. They are also tapered and easy to cut to the desired size. They are made by CVA and are called Muzzleloader Breech Cleaners. They are great for cleaning SKS gas port and the firing pin hole in the bolt. Bass-Pro sells them.
A 5 to 8 inch group at 100 yards is pretty normal with some better and some worse.
For those that use WD40; it does not dissolve salts. If you believe it does, then take a gram of table salt, mix it into a half cup of WD40 then pour it through a coffee filter. You will still have a gram of salt to put back in the shaker when done. WD40 is for removing water and stands for "water displacement #40"
Use water, then WD40, then wipe down with oil. Done in the time that it takes to drink one beer ( two beers if your if ur in Alberta).
For those that use WD40; it does not dissolve salts. If you believe it does, then take a gram of table salt, mix it into a half cup of WD40 then pour it through a coffee filter. You will still have a gram of salt to put back in the shaker when done. WD40 is for removing water and stands for "water displacement #40"
Use water, then WD40, then wipe down with oil. Done in the time that it takes to drink one beer ( two beers if your if ur in Alberta).
