SKS accuracy question?

One of the quickest ways to increase SKS accuracy is to drill a hole in the back of the trigger guard, put in a 10/32 bolt up into the bottom of the reciever thru the hole were the spring is in the stock. You have to get the screw length just right as it contacts the bottom of the body cover. The object here is to tighten up the reciever in the stock. As you fire an SKS the action jumps out of the stock ever so slightly as it is held in only by spring strength. Hold your favorite rifle by the pistol grip and push firmly up on the trigger guard. You can push the action out of the stock!!!!

Scott
Dycor Special Services
 
Start with a C clamp to hold the action WITHOUT trigger group into the stock. Drill sideways through both sides of the stock (synthetic stock would be ideal) and action for 3 to 4 machine bolts. Pillar bed those bolts into the stock. You can also use a couple of these bolts to hold scope mounts to the action.

Bed the front ferrule. You might even have to shim it so there is no movement forward/aft, side to side. You don't want to bend the barrel though. Bedding around the rear of the action wouldn't hurt either.

This simulates the type of two lug receivers that are making the M1A into tackdrivers. The action and barrel are 'fully bedded' into the stock then held in place using bolts just like any bolt rifle.

If you get a chamber that isn't too horrid, this set up might actually shoot decent. I would like to say around 1.5 MOA.

Many have seen that at short range these SKS can shoot well but their groups go south fast as distances increase. I feel that this is the dispersion caused in part by the rifle wiggling in the stock. Of course, crappy bullets don't help either.

Who will be the first to try and lock up their rifle????

I will eventually test this out but I have three rifle projects infront of another SKS build.
Jerry
 
Easier, most definitely but I wouldn't trust a glue bond with oil tainted wood and blued steel. By bolting everything together, I know that it will not (shouldn't) move. Another reason for using pillars through the stock.

Another option would be to find a place where a lug can be welded to the action and a reg action bolt installed. There certainly is no place in the front part of the action, and that rear tang doesn't look too promising.

However, if willing to have a large opening at the rear of the action/stock inletting, something could be welded to the rear of the action and a bolt run up through the grip. How's that for over complicated fiddly stuff that may not amount to a hill of S.....

Yeah, yeah, yeah - dirt cheap surplus noise maker, why bother. For the same reasons there are $1500US 10/22 rifles out there.

Plus if nothing improves or you totally pooch the rifle, who cares. It is still a $150 battle rifle. Now if you discover a tangible improvement...

The fame, the fortune....The post with lots of pics.

Jerry
 
OK, Jerry

I will glue my SKS (it's my prototype gun anyhow) because I trust epoxy....here is the deal: if it doesn't work out, you buy it :D :D :D :D

Michael
 
actualy i have a SKS and i was intrigued by the article mysticplayer posted. i think i just might screw around with my SKS and see what happens.........
 
emmab said:
It's funny that this thread came up now as I was thinking of trying to bed an SKS. Is the idea to fill the gaps in the stock where stock and barrel meet? Or is there more to it than that? Any info links would be appreciated
Click to expand...

There is very little to no information on how to bed an SKS stock except for one article that's been taken off the web. It sucked anyways :)

I took cues from looking at a norc fibreglass stock that has very distinct bedding points. As far as I can tell the action/barrel contacts in three points only which I'm sure is for manufacturing ease and not for accuracy.

Mystic players comments are interesting and I'd love to see the results.
 
Mike, if your stock is 'dry' enough for epoxy to stick, it certainly is better then the ones I have played with.

Since I have warned you about glue probably not working, your failure will simply prove me right :). So, I will be happy to buy your now defective used rifle for a fair used defective rifle price.

Oh, you would have to take the action out of the stock before hand without destroying either part ... ;-) I would be bolting them together.

Let me know...Don't forget there is the whole rust preventive oil causing epoxy to separate issue. Also, the bore solvent causing epoxy to separate issue.

Of course my favorite, the recoil vibration non porous slippery steel cheesy wood compressing rigid epoxy let go issue.

Ever use industrial strength silicone?????

Jerry
 
Hi Jerry

Silicone will be a super filler but wouldn't be a strong bonding agent. I have the access to the best industrial epoxy so I will give a try as soon as I come back from this trip.

I bought my lever SKS for nothing but trials. Maybe eventually I have to scrap it....

About glue:....you can use super glue for testing. If it doesn't work out, just bring the gun every time you take a shower.....Super glue wouldn't survive steam....:)

Regards,

Michael
 
Mike, the problem isn't the epoxy, it's the wood. Hope yours isn't as oil soaked as mine have been. I have never found a way to make epoxy stick to oily wood.

Crazy glues would be even worse.

Was in an industrial supply store and they showed me some aircraft grade epoxy that can be used as a replacement for welding on alum. Unbelieveably strong (unbelieveably expensive) but then I guess no one wants a Jumbo jet wing to delaminate.

I guess that would be a bad thing...

Jerry
 
Jerry,

You are right....the wood will be the problem. On the other hand, many other people bedded their surplus rifles so there must be a way.

Time to search Google....:)

Michael
 
hmmm, some good ideas here, I'll have to try them.

I just scoped my sks, I can't shoot worth a darn open-sighted. At the 50 yd indoor range, I was shooting ~1" groups. I'm sure I can do a lot better, I was just snapping rounds off to sight it in, and verify the rigidity of the scope mount.

I had removed the gas piston so I could collect & re-use the brass - I was shooting hand-loads as they do not allow milsurp steel-cored ammo at the indoor range and there's no way I'm paying $15 per 20 shots of commercial ammo :)
 
SKS glue bedding

Hi Jerry,

Finished the gluing yesterday and tried it on range today.

I used degrease to clean the stock and action. It worked well.

Then JB weld epoxy was used to glue them together. Only on action, not on barrel. I also trim of a little wood from the front end of the stock so it wouldn't touch the barrel.

Wait 24 hr til glue drys. Went to the range this morning, fired 80 rounds through the glued SKS without any sign of loosing or cracking.

I had done reseraching job on composite material in U of T so I know with proper surface treatment the epoxy will withstand the shock with ease:cool: .

In the range I will say the group is much stable. Which means I no long get groups 5" apart from each other (100 yards). The groups themself is about 4", which is what I expect from the Czech ammo. The 5 shots pattern is interesting: normally 3 shots in the middle within 2" group and the other two flyers can be 5" away. I know it's not me because I shoot golfball with rimfire at 100 yards.

It's time to find some commercial ammo or maybe I should try hand loading. Prospor had good luck with hand-loads....

Sorry my co-work broke my camaro:mad: so there isn't any pics.

Best regards,

Michael

NOTE: Don't do it if you are not comfortable with this glue thing. The contact surface is not so wide and Jerry pointed out the oil can be a factor. From what I observed I believe it woundn't be dangous if the glue delaminated but the gun will go scraped;) .
 
Glad to see the gluing showing positive results.

One thing I didn't see you do is to ensure that the front ferrule is also locked to the stock. You can bed it as well. For some really sloppy front ends, shimming is also needed.

I bet once the front end is 'locked' in place, the flyers go away.

There is a very real risk of having a 2 to 3MOA SKS. Then there is handloading...

Jerry
 
Jerry,

"I bet once the front end is 'locked' in place, the flyers go away."

Why? Now the front ferrule is not touch the stock. Isn't that the same as "free floating" thing? If I lock the front end, the heat expansion will slighly bend the barrel because of the difference between the wood and the steel....will that happen?

Michael
 
Hi Buster,

I don't think the gun solvent will do too much damage on epoxy. When I ran enviromental effect experiments on epoxy, I boiled epoxy samples in oil for one year so USAF can understand the effect of jet fuel on airplane composite structure....the expoxy survived it....
 
I love this forum , these threads keep giving me ideas .
I went with Mysticplayers idea of bolting the thing solid . I drilled a hole in the reciever and tapped a hole in the trigger guard ( drilled a hole through the stock ) and shimmed the rear stock lug as tight as I could . I also releived the stock so the barrel isn't touching anything . I also bolted on the reciever cover tight . As I tightened it I could see it suck together , I had thought it was tight before but doing this proved me wrong .
I still haven't shot it yet though to see if this latest modification bears fruit .
Must wait until Sunday ( weather permiting ) for any results .
 
I have my Norc scoped with a Choate drilled mount and a Leapers scope, a pinned compensator, Choate synthetic stock and some minor trigger rail polishing. This rifle will shoot 4-5" at 100 yards. By no means a "tack driver" but using surplus ammo I am very pleased with it for the money!
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top Bottom