SKS Accurizing

jabberjaw112

jabberjaw112

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Gents;
Having seen a video on utube of a mini14 barrel flex while firing, I was wondering if it would be possible and or worthwhile to weld a shotgun like vented rail to the front sight post back to the gass system.
Ya I'm one of those guys. I put a 351 into a Pinto and tubbed the rear end. Had a beer keg for fuel tank.
Thanks for your insight in advance
Cheers C.C.
 
barrel diameter is severely limited due to the gas system . a person could machine a grove for the gas system in the top of the barrel . and maybe go from a direct impingement to a gas type system ( like on a ag42 ) . that might also mean a softer system with less shock vibration going through the rifle .

also a pinned barrel would be a source of flex where the action meets the barrel .

the list could go on and on and on really only limited by a persons imagination and time .

there is no reason a sks could not be as accurate as a ar15 ..... the hold back would be the lack of return on investment .

also instead of welding , bolting and clamping pieces in place would work better .
 
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Top cover scope mount, add a clamp on scope barrel mount ring, and a 2 foot, 1" steel round bar in between. This will possibly give you accuracy not far from an accustrut Mini-14.
 
I wonder it a picatinny rail from rear sight to front sight post would add a degree of stiffness?.
The barrel is screwed into the reciever and then a lock pin is installed,Yes?. This needs further locking?. It's a Norc.
Accu-strut was indeed the inspiration for stiffening and eliminating possible barrel whip.
A trigger job,Top quality ammo will certainly be first steps.
Having had fun tuning my 305, I wonder if anybody has tried a different, better quality spring and spring guide.
My barrel is properly indexed. No plans to use a brake as rifle has F.A. of a kick. I've polished the feed ramp and am using Baur duckbills and stripper clip loading.
I intend to ultimately move the trigger to just in front of the mag release and hard install a pistol grip to the trigger group, A la; Wm Mcloed's custom work. Only still trying to figure out how to alter the safety lever. Something to think about.
Thanks for the responses boys
Cheers C.C.
 
the barrel is either screwed into the receiver , or press fit , then pinned .

think of the whole rifle as a giant slinky , pivoting at each attachment point , and flexing between each point .

I wonder if a trigger assembly out of a ar could be made to work ?
 
I think a scope mount base that is attached to the receiver and not the cover is a big first step.

Then a bit of attention to the trigger group to smooth up the trigger pull. As for the rest of the rifle --it is what it is ! !- But with handholds you could probably reach a compromise where the ammo would work better wihin the limits imposed by the individual rifles stress points.

If I were heading in this direction I would not get hung up on one particular rifle but try and get the opportunity to examine a bunch and then work on the rifle whose barrel displayed the most promise. Using standard pin gauges (a cylinder of steel machined to a perfect diameter) find a few rifles that display the tightest bore at the mussel.Then try and slide slide the gauge gently down the full length of the bore to pass it out the other end.Most pin gauges are about two inches long.You would get a few rejects out of ten rifles even with this two inch length. Say you have ten left. Now take another gauge of the same size but three inches long and repeat. More rejects. Now move up to a four inch gauge if possible. Keep going until you have the best of the lot as far as internal bore straightness. This will give you the most perfect straight as well as centered bore. A bore that will not pass the gauge has an off-center passage of the hole as it goes down the length of the barrel. This is not uncommon even on a lot of good name bolt action rifles but is not a big issue for a few shots out of a hunting rifle--Minute of deer or whatever. An off-center bore has in effect a thin side/thick side. Once it warms up it will not hold as good a group because it will pull the barrel to one side instead of heating up equally.

You have worked on cars. Putting a "blower" or nitros-oxide on a engine that is not balanced is rather a waste of time and effort. Get the basics covered first before going into the advanced stuff. The barrel is the transmission on a rifle .Its twist rate determines what weight/length bullet can be stabilized. If it is not as good as you can start with everything else you do is compromised.
 
lipstick-on-a-pig.jpg
 
Heading out to pick up pin gauges. ! have 4 sks's, 3 Norc, 1 tula. All are good shooters. On paper at 100m. Will use best barrel for mods. Untill I install a sidemount and scope it, no data on M.O.A. is reliable from me yet. My eye's are bad, so optics are a must.
I m gonna use a Wartack style Top rail that mounts in DC pin holes and rearsight location with a Accustrut type to front post. Will post photo when complete.
Was thinking about adding another barrel-reciever pin to try and stiffen further. Really don't want to lose stripperclip reload option.
Was also thing about a Tuning fork reciever mount to barrel stiffening rod....Meh, who knows.
Early days into my latest rod. Everything and anything is possible at this point.
I've never kissed a lipsticked pig, Thanks or the heads up M.M.
Cheers
 
If you really are serious about an accurate SKS and have some money to burn, it should be possible.

I would approach is the same manner as an M1A or Mini14.... both can be made to shoot but neither project is cheap.

Jerry
 
On the 305, the first step in tuning is checking barrel index. Done and perfect.
2nd is to replace spring guide and spring. Any alternatives out there for sks?.
Very 1st step on a 305 is checkin headspace!!
4th is replacing sights for nm.
5th is bedding the receiver, Which of the available stocks are the best for bedding without breaking the bank?.( I expect to be doing some custom machining and as I ain't one, any discretionary funds are gonna go in this direction.
Probably gonna drill another retaining pin in receiver.
What do you boy's feel about a accustrut clone. Couldn't hurt right?.
Cheers C.C.
 
I don't understand why anyone would buy an SKS to start with let along ponder on improving it's accuracy.
 
jabberjaw112 said:
Gents;
Having seen a video on utube of a mini14 barrel flex while firing, I was wondering if it would be possible and or worthwhile to weld a shotgun like vented rail to the front sight post back to the gass system.
Ya I'm one of those guys. I put a 351 into a Pinto and tubbed the rear end. Had a beer keg for fuel tank.
Thanks for your insight in advance
Cheers C.C.
Click to expand...

Why would you want to weld a rigid rail on something that was designed to flex as such?
Have you seen how much an AK-47 flexes?
Rob
 
It's my time and my wife's money:cheers:. ANOTHER THOUGHT, m14.CA. makes a oprod guide, i wonder if I could reverse it to help keep everything in alignment and help reduce flex?.
if it doesn't work, I can use it on my 305, win-win.
As I understand it the nylon buffer insert for bolt recoil and preservation doesn't really work. FF's and stovepipes ect., so bolt spring and piston are area's I'm gonna look into further. If anyne knows any info about potential replacements of "higher quality", I would appreciate hearing from you.
Cheers C.C.
 
I like your spirit and determination! I also like the thought of taking an in-accurate rifle and making it better. But.... I'm lazy, so I got my best SKS
as accurate as I could just by making the barrel and receiver tight in the stock by shimming and using good new ammo instead of surplus.
 
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