SKS dust cover question

Heres apic of were the buffer should be

SKSBUFFER.JPG


I've never seen a buffer like that before. So the bolt bumps the buffer and the carrier does not contact the cover. Neat. I would drill a hole in the center of the buffer so the firing pin does not make contact. Looks like it might drive the tapered nose of the firing pin forward to stick in the bolt face and cause a slame fire, maybe? Just a guess.
 
I've never seen a buffer like that before. So the bolt bumps the buffer and the carrier does not contact the cover. Neat. I would drill a hole in the center of the buffer so the firing pin does not make contact. Looks like it might drive the tapered nose of the firing pin forward to stick in the bolt face and cause a slame fire, maybe? Just a guess.

Excellent point.

Personally, I rely on the original design. The Soviets spent a lot of time and money perfecting the SKS design. It's a bit arrogant of some American entrepreneur to think he's going to milspec reliability with a $5 piece of plastic.
 
Excellent point.

Personally, I rely on the original design. The Soviets spent a lot of time and money perfecting the SKS design. It's a bit arrogant of some American entrepreneur to think he's going to milspec reliability with a $5 piece of plastic.
It's not plastic, it's a rubber compound. It's design is to reduce vibrations to increase scope life to this fact it does extremely well. It does not cause slam fire's as it doesn't effect the fireing pin. Just cause something is cheap dosn't mean it dosn't work. Know if you want repeatability from your sks you will need this rubber piece to be installed in your rear cover;
SKS%20Recoil%20Buffer.jpg

This rubber piece will stop the spring from sliding all over the place while in the shooting cycle. Remeber the only true way of achieving accuracy is threw repeatability.
Now for the rear scope cover these model's with the set screw's are as good as it's going to get. Just remeber to use red lock tight and do a search in this fourm on how to properly install them.
SKSSCOPEPCKGE4X30.jpg

Read more about a SKS here;
http://firearm.skidome.org/SKS_IPSC.htm
 
Well I sure am sorry bud that you are not happy with what I posted, but have fun, I think though, that you are going to have to find someone else to play with. :rolleyes: :jerkit:

Listen, I'm trying to be helpful, not jerk you around, but what you posted doesn't seem to even fit with the topic of the thread. You referenced it as "proof" that the SKS gas system is overpowered.

The article you posted to is an internet forum discussion between non-firearms experts who want their brass to land in a nice pile less than a foot away from them on a bench when shooting custom cast bullet loads. The poster doesn't say anything about the power of the SKS gas system or make any assertion that it is too powerful, not powerful enough, etc.

In short, he's modifying his firearm away from design intent.

Yes, you could drill additional holes in your gas tube as well and yes, that would limit the rearward force of the bolt. I doubt, however, that this will affect the lifespan of the receiver.

The SKS receiver is built commie-tough from machined billet and is firing a round that doesn't wear out thinly stamped sheet-steel chinese AK receivers doing full-auto all the time. The basic SKS design was copied from an anti-tank rifle and is, quite frankly, overbuilt for the round it fires.

Additionally, the bolt does not contact the receiver cover at any time during firing. It simply doesn't physically touch it.

Don't take my word for it. Get a small piece of playdough and jam it onto the relevant surfaces of the gas cover, then cycle the bolt a few times with gusto. Remove the cover - the playdough will not have displaced to zero thou, which would indicate contact.

If it hits anywhere, it's on the "wings" machined into the receiver ahead of the receiver cover pin.

There is a buffer made to protect those wings, but as another posted pointed out, this increases the stress on the firing pin, which I see as creting more problems than it solves ;)
 
I agree, the buffer you are showing doesn;t have anythign to do with the firing pin, but this one posted above:
SKSBUFFER.JPG

will contact the firing pin every time the gun cycles. One posted commented on maybe drilling a relief hole in it to avert the pin being hit - that might have some merit?

The one you posted, if you read my posts above, I said it improves firing consistency, so obviously I agree with you. I just don't believe it will make your SKS last any longer ;)

As for rubber vs. plastic - I think you may be mistaken. If that buffer was made from natural rubber, it would be dead after the first case of ammo. More likely it's made of an elastic polymer (e.g. stretchy plastic). Most buffers are.

It's not plastic, it's a rubber compound. It's design is to reduce vibrations to increase scope life to this fact it does extremely well. It does not cause slam fire's as it doesn't effect the fireing pin. Just cause something is cheap dosn't mean it dosn't work. Know if you want repeatability from your sks you will need this rubber piece to be installed in your rear cover;
SKS%20Recoil%20Buffer.jpg

This rubber piece will stop the spring from sliding all over the place while in the shooting cycle. Remeber the only true way of achieving accuracy is threw repeatability.
Now for the rear scope cover these model's with the set screw's are as good as it's going to get. Just remeber to use red lock tight and do a search in this fourm on how to properly install them.

Read more about a SKS here;
http://firearm.skidome.org/SKS_IPSC.htm
 
Gents, I now see how the green buffer works. The carrier hits it, not the rear of the bolt as I first thought it might. However if the sides of the buffer started to break, then maybe the bolt could make some contact.

As already posted above, I see now the carrier does not contact the cover. It contacts that steel bridge in front of the cover's pin. And also as already posted above, the black buffer does keep the spring lined perfectly straight. You can actually feel the bolt moveing smoother back and forth with the black buffer installed.

I think best would be to cut the black buffer shorter so in keeps the spring straight, but does not make contact with the carrier. Does all this really matter? probably not, but if you are trying to see how accurate your sks shoots, then maybe?

As of the scope mount, I agree with others who said a side mount is the best choice.

Thanks everyone for your replies and suggestions!:)
 
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