sks firing pin
- Thread starter yes man
- Start date
As long the free floating firing pin is clean and rattle freely in the bolt, you wont have any problems,save the money for ammo. The ones who really want a spring loaded pin order from Murray in USA.
Joce
Keep it clean and do not oil it. Oil attracts crud and crud makes it seize up, resulting in slamfires. Every couple of range trips I take my bolt apart and clean the pin/channel. Adds under 2min to the cleaning routine.
- Location
- south of Detroit
Ditto above posts. I got a murrays and all that happened was the springs got f'ed up and then the pin broke. Keep it clean, no oil. As long as you can shake it (the bolt with f-p inside) and it rattles freely you are good to go. Clean it every time you shoot it. You tube for instructional videos. Shoot only the mil-surplus ammo or you may have popped primer issues. SKS is a beater gun and trying to fancy up the internals will probably cause problems.
I've been unable to remove the pin from my bolt, but a friend of mine suggested putting the whole bolt in a ziplock bag submerged in Hoppes 9. After 10-15mins, the pin rattles like new again. Lightly oil and you are good to go. It really works well. Now, if you can remove the firing pin easily go for it, but mine just doesn't...
Last edited:
Boil the bolt assembly for a few minutes, then punch it out with a 3/16th punch (on a vice).
Polish the retaining pin and fp channel with a Q-tip and aluminum wheel polish. Finally, remove all polish residue with brake kleen and reassemble. No lube should be applied - run it dry.
You will be able to easily disassemble for cleaning in the future. I use ZEP orange cleaning concentrate (very good at cutting greasy residue).
Polish the retaining pin and fp channel with a Q-tip and aluminum wheel polish. Finally, remove all polish residue with brake kleen and reassemble. No lube should be applied - run it dry.
You will be able to easily disassemble for cleaning in the future. I use ZEP orange cleaning concentrate (very good at cutting greasy residue).
If you're unable to even remove the pin, that would scare me.... What's the problem, where can't you get it apart? Maybe we can help!
My guess is that the OP is unable to take out the retaining pin (common beef). Use an auger punch to get started and finish off with a 1/8" pin punch.
Didn't want to hijack the thread....The retaining pin will not come out with a typical punch. The firing pin rattles like new. The hoppes 9 solution seem to work like a charm. I shoot 100 rounds or less per outing and give it a full cleaning everytime. It doesn't worry me one bit. I will try removing it again at some point. For now, firing pin rattles free, then no worries about slam fire.
You're correct there.. An auger punch is a lot thicker-tipped and it tapers into the handle width, so you can really go at it with a hammer. Once you've pushed it in 1/8-1/4", you can continue with a regular punch. That's what was needed on my Tula.
So i just boil the bolt and the reteining pin will come out with out to much trouble...sounds good thx for all the info i will try that and polish the parts up. I was just concernd a little after lookin at some vids about the slamfire issues my tula has not yet had a problem and the springs sound like more trouble than good il just keep it clean .my sons somtimes fire the rifle so just paranoid i guess......
I cleaned it once without disassembling and went to the range. Light primer strikes - the pin was not rattling completely free the day after.
I cleaned it up the normal way (final rinse with hot tap water) and went out the next day and it was fine.
You just have to boil it the first time. It probably would not hurt to put a thin coat of oil (Weapon Shield?) on the retaining pin before reassembly each time (though not enough to seep into the firing pin channel).
I cleaned it up the normal way (final rinse with hot tap water) and went out the next day and it was fine.
You just have to boil it the first time. It probably would not hurt to put a thin coat of oil (Weapon Shield?) on the retaining pin before reassembly each time (though not enough to seep into the firing pin channel).
Last edited:
Very important for those of us who don't like slamfires
By that same reasoning, if you never wear a John Deere hat, an intergalactic spacecraft will never land on your house.
But gosh, what if you did wear a John Deere hat...every day even?
I run it wet as ur mom, and no slamfires ever. Hundreds of rapid fire rounds at a time. Whatever oil. Outers, clp, wd40, whatever. Clean with boiling water and relube. I'm prob doin it wrong, but I have no idea how anyone has a malfunction with an sks. It's a tank of a gun.
I talked to a fellow club member yesterday who had lots of slamfires due to the oil attracting dust and crud and making the pin stick. The slamfires stopped once he stopped oiling it. It could be that your pin is just a tad bit skinnier or your pin channel just a tad bit wider. It can also depend on the ammo you shoot. The stuff I had until yesterday was DIRRRRRRRTYY.
