SKS hunter project

umcoles

umcoles

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Good Evening Shooters,
I would like to introduce my Chinese milsrup SKS hunter project. When planning this project i wanted to keep with the original wood stock and mix some styling ques from the SVT rifle and those old Enfield sniper rifles. A description of the modifications follows the pictures. It handles and shoulders beautifully and polishing the sear really made the trigger feel smooth as butter. I don't have a range report yet but i am super charged to go put this rifle through its paces! I have pics from the build if there are any questions.

Steve


SKShunterrhs.jpg


SKShunterlhs.jpg


Modifications made front to back were:
1- Removed the front sight block to help dragging the rifle through the willows
2- Repaired the bayonet channel in the forend of the stock to help the rigidity and make it look a little neater. Stripped and restained the stock
3- Ventilated steel hand guard which I thought was reminiscent of the vented hand guard on the SVT rifle
4- Glass bedding the action around the recoil lug to improve stock fit and hopefully add some accuracy
5- Shell deflector to prevent empty casings pinging off the scope
6- Polished the trigger sear to get rid of the gritty feeling of the trigger
7- Choate drill and tap scope mount and a 3-9 scope to give that close up view of the deer i hope to eat. Want to keep the kills as clean as possible
8- Hand fabricated cheek piece i modeled after those used on the WWII Enfield sniper rifles to correct the cheek weld with the higher sight picture on the scope
9- Limbsaver recoil pad to compensate for the punishing recoil of the SKS. The added inch or so helped to correct the eye relief when sighting with the scope
 
umcoles said:
Modifications made front to back were:
1- Removed the front sight block to help dragging the rifle through the willows
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Can you explain how you did it,im trying with a puller and flaring tool and im about to throw my sks trought the widow.

BTW nice rifle ! :)
 
SoLDneR said:
Can you explain how you did it,im trying with a puller and flaring tool and im about to throw my sks trought the widow.

BTW nice rifle ! :)
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I feel your pain with removal of the front sight block SoLDneR! I tried the flaring tool myself and that didn't work out for me either. I can send you pics of what i describe here if it reads a little confusing. What worked for me in the end was to use a harmonic gear puller. What i did was cut a notch in a piece of 1.5 inch (i think) flat steel stock that would fit around the sleeve of the front sight block right under the front sight and the little holder for the cleaning rod. Next i drilled two holes as close to the notch as i could and still have them line up with the loops in the harmonic gear puller. I connected the harmonic gear puller to the flat bar steel with a couple of long 3/8th inch nuts and bolts. I protected the muzzle crown with a square of the same flat steel stock with a little divot drilled into it to center the ram of the gear puller. I snugged up the bolts and started tightening up the puller. The steel stock started to bend at this point so it was hammer time. As i struck the bayonet lug on the rear of the front sight block if gradually started to come loose. Before you start using the hammer you need to wrap the barrel in plastic, something like 2 liter pop bottle plastic to protect the barrel from glancing blows from the hammer. If and more likely when i do this again i would redesign my system to use two pieces of angle iron to lend rigidity to the block i am pulling on. Both pieces of steel would need to be notched for the sight block sleeve and drilled alike to accept the bolts but it would be more sturdy especially if they were bolted together.
 
Clobbersauras said:
Looks good. Can you get the dust cover off without removing the scope? Did you test it for accuracy yet?
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Yes, you can mount the Choate mount and get the dust cover off without removing it. There is a bit of a fumble fingered roll you have to do to get the bolt and bolt carrier back in after cleaning but it is doable.

This steel is a real bear to drill though, you will need good hardened steel bits and lots of cutting oil and a drill press is a must. You need to set up the drill very carefully to make sure the holes are straight and measure carefully to get the holes to line up right. When it is done right the results are great and i believe this to be a superior mounting system. If you want to use stripper clips to load make sure you have a stripper clip in the mag slot and your optic in place before you mark out the mounting holes. Shorty scopes will work such as the leupold 20mm or any red dot but for longer optics like the one i have on there it will need to be loaded by hand.
 
umcoles said:
I feel your pain with removal of the front sight block SoLDneR! I tried the flaring tool myself and that didn't work out for me either. I can send you pics of what i describe here if it reads a little confusing. What worked for me in the end was to use a harmonic gear puller. What i did was cut a notch in a piece of 1.5 inch (i think) flat steel stock that would fit around the sleeve of the front sight block right under the front sight and the little holder for the cleaning rod. Next i drilled two holes as close to the notch as i could and still have them line up with the loops in the harmonic gear puller. I connected the harmonic gear puller to the flat bar steel with a couple of long 3/8th inch nuts and bolts. I protected the muzzle crown with a square of the same flat steel stock with a little divot drilled into it to center the ram of the gear puller. I snugged up the bolts and started tightening up the puller. The steel stock started to bend at this point so it was hammer time. As i struck the bayonet lug on the rear of the front sight block if gradually started to come loose. Before you start using the hammer you need to wrap the barrel in plastic, something like 2 liter pop bottle plastic to protect the barrel from glancing blows from the hammer. If and more likely when i do this again i would redesign my system to use two pieces of angle iron to lend rigidity to the block i am pulling on. Both pieces of steel would need to be notched for the sight block sleeve and drilled alike to accept the bolts but it would be more sturdy especially if they were bolted together.
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PM sent for photo.

Thanks !
 
umcoles said:
This steel is a real bear to drill though, you will need good hardened steel bits and lots of cutting oil and a drill press is a must. You need to set up the drill very carefully to make sure the holes are straight and measure carefully to get the holes to line up right. When it is done right the results are great and i believe this to be a superior mounting system.
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all true, except you don't need a drill press. i did mine with a good cordless power drill. really wish i wasn't using that HSS bit from midway USA though. A good cobalt or even Ti coated would have been nice. I did learn how to properly sharpen a drill bit though...about 4 freckin times.

i think i mostly messed it up when it bound on breaking through the receiver wall (would not happen in a properly clamped up drill press). If doing it again, I would drill them all 90% first, then do the last bit on all 4 holes.
 
punishing recoil of the SKS??


When I hear stuff like this, its hard to validate an opinion or anything in this post to be worth a read. Further to this, you can Frankenstein a SKS what ever way you want, but the bullet still runs out of energy at just over 100 yards. Why does anyone need a scope for that?


It might be cool if you still live in your Mom's basement, but its an embarrassment to real hunters and shooters.

f:P:
 
fiddler said:
punishing recoil of the SKS??


When I hear stuff like this, its hard to validate an opinion or anything in this post to be worth a read. Further to this, you can Frankenstein a SKS what ever way you want, but the bullet still runs out of energy at just over 100 yards. Why does anyone need a scope for that?


It might be cool if you still live in your Mom's basement, but its an embarrassment to real hunters and shooters.

f:P:
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Umm, i think he was being sarcastic about the recoil as he added that the real reason was to increase LOP immediately after his lol about the recoil.

As to the lethality of the 7.62x39 past 100 yards.. maybe i'll let some armed forces types on here speak to that.

i hope ur a friend, havin a laugh. otherwise, ur a huge #### dude.
 
sks model

umcoles said:
Good Evening Shooters,
I would like to introduce my Chinese milsrup SKS hunter project. When planning this project i wanted to keep with the original wood stock and mix some styling ques from the SVT rifle and those old Enfield sniper rifles. A description of the modifications follows the pictures. It handles and shoulders beautifully and polishing the sear really made the trigger feel smooth as butter. I don't have a range report yet but i am super charged to go put this rifle through its paces! I have pics from the build if there are any questions.

Steve


SKShunterrhs.jpg


I love the rifle barrel all cleaned up, and the cheak piece is a good idea, specially if you can make it blend well with the stock.

Please keep us posted on what you do and how the rifle shoots. Thanks.

I think the sks is a good hunting rifle at closer range with good bullets. We just need to develope a decent hunting bullet that shoots well out of it.. Good luck!.:)
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Looks pretty cool, I hope the scope will hold a zero though...I have yet to see any SKS scope mounting system that doesn't "creep" after a few dozen rounds.
 
collector67 said:
Looks pretty cool, I hope the scope will hold a zero though...I have yet to see any SKS scope mounting system that doesn't "creep" after a few dozen rounds.
Click to expand...

the choate side mount doesn't move, ever. the weaver converta mount is also rock solid. a good rule is "if it doesn't attach to the lower with screws it will move"
 
Nice work Steve! Now break out the dremel and head over to post #60 in the SKS Optics sticky to get rid of the shell deflector for good. Works like a charm. Could you post some pics of your barrel extension? Does it come past the muzzle?
 
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