Sks identity please
- Thread starter terr92
- Start date
I’m not an expert so just taking a stab at it. I think the star is Tula Russian. The laminate stock also looks like a Russian refurb. I’m sure someone with more knowledge will give you even more details. Stay tuned and enjoy one of the most popular rifles to own.
Joe Amorosi
CGN Regular
- Location
- Not Where I Thought I Was....
Post a couple pics of the markings on the right hand side of the stock and on the top cover
Brutus
CGN Ultra frequent flyer
If it's truly East German there's two things I can think of: there will be no short cleaning rod stowed underneath the barrel.
And the method of capturing the rear of the sling will be through a slot cut all the way thru rear stock and the sling is folded upon itself and sewn on the folds so it cannot pull through the slot. Same as K98k Mauser sling point attachment. That's all I got friend.
And the method of capturing the rear of the sling will be through a slot cut all the way thru rear stock and the sling is folded upon itself and sewn on the folds so it cannot pull through the slot. Same as K98k Mauser sling point attachment. That's all I got friend.
- Location
- Western Manitoba
I know nothing about SKS or translating from Cyrillic to English alphabet - but there have been a number of former military rifles through here that I have bought - what I found - a stamping on a part might identify the origin of that part - but does not necessarily identify the whole rifle - was most all parts swapped out at one time - even barrels - or at least were able to be - either by the original military, or by a subsequent military, or by a civilian after it was surplused. To know for sure, have to look at almost every part to know it belonged with the stamped part when that rifle left that factory - so like USA Model of 1917 - many were "rebuilt" for WWII by USA military - and the re-built parts got a different finish - so might be correct looking part for the made-in-1918 Model of 1917 that you are trying to put together, but is wrong finish on a part - WWI finish or re-build finish - some care about that, some do not.
"Stampings" - is or was an eBay seller - in Poland (?) who would sell almost any stamp that you could imagine - so home guy could "stamp" about anything that he wanted, on about any part. But will be a difference where the stamp is or was applied on the part - if the buyer knows where it "should" be - and is a subtle difference if stamping was applied before or after the part received its finish. So a potential buyer can not always 100% rely on existence of a "stamp" to know that part is an "original", if that is important to the buyer.
There is a front band for a Model of 1917 that is here somewhere - has an "E" where the "E" is supposed to be, a "W" where the "W" is supposed to be and something unreadable where the "R" is supposed to be - and an American Eagle Head inspection stamp - except "E", "W" and "R" were different factories - that original part would have got "one" letter stamp, not all three of them.
There was a Model of 1917 (some people will refer to them as "P-17") that I bought for the action, or maybe I bought it for the bolt - it was being used with a Mauser 98 follower and a Mauser magazine spring - and apparently worked fine like that. There was also a 1895 Chilean Mauser that I bought - but the sear and the trigger had Swede crowns - so likely from a Swede 1896 or perhaps a Swede 1894 - or from Swede military spares - and it worked fine like that. But is those details that make hundreds or thousands dollars difference what buyers like me would pay. There are 80 some parts on a Model of 1917 - do they all match?? I have no idea how many parts are on an SKS - but have to look and inspect each, if you claim it is "all original and all matching" - or find a buyer who will pay as if it is, and neither seller nor buyer knows any different. There is a very finite (small) group of people who I would accept their say so that a rifle is "all original" - because i know they would check and verify each part before they said that - but for most sellers, I would presume they know not much - and therefore I would need to spend a couple hours to dismantle and inspect it myself, before paying multi-thousands of dollars for a mil-surp - or any rifle, really.
The value of the Op's rifle is a bit about what it is, but more about what the seller knows, what the potential buyer knows or cares about, and what price they agree upon.
Last edited:
