SKS iron sight elevation markings

poweredbybeer

poweredbybeer

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I remember reading a bunch of stuff in this thread;
http://www.canadiangunnutz.com/forum/showthread.php?t=42873
that had to do with the elevation markings on the standard SKS rear sight leaf. I've never really understood what the markings meant. Does the "1" mark mean 100 meters, and so-on? And where is the corresponding scale-line on the little slide adjuster? Do you read the setting from the top edge of it, or in the (unmarked) middle of the slider, or what? When I was shooting at 50 yards, I actually had to raise it a bit (2 clicks, if I remember right) in order to get anywhere close to zero, otherwise it was shooting too freakin' low! Can anyone explain to me the correct scale of the elevation markings and how to set them? Much obliged!
 
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:) don't sweat!

the markings doesn't really matter as you can sight your rifle in exactly at 4,5 or 6 or whatever at 100 meters. But people will only sight 100 meters at mark 1 only because they can aim at something over 300 meters at mark 2 or whatever. At mark 1 you can shoot something at 250 meter without touching the sight.

R.R
 
If you want a 100m zero, with the sight set at 1, adjust the front sight, until the point of impact is the point of aim at 100m. Screw sight in to raise P.O.I., out to lower it.
 
Ok, i was taking these pics when you guys were beating me to the reply...so im posting them anyway...(and yes, i know the pics are giganto)

ridu7l.jpg


The 'n' marking is the 300m battle sight

ridx6u.jpg


Here, the sight is set at 500m. You just have to line up the the number you want with the front edge of the slider thingy on the scale.
 
muh-muh-muh-mauser said:
You just have to line up the the number you want with the front edge of the slider thingy on the scale.
Click to expand...

That's what I was looking for. I wasn't sure whether to use the top edge of the slider or the theoretical middle, I just kinda fudged it until I could shoot decent groups.

That being said, I'm still confused :confused: If the bottom of the scale (the N or U or whatever the hell it is) is 300m, then does that mean the 1 mark equals 300m + 100m = 400m? The profile of the ramp looks fairly straight, how does the bottom setting equal 300m and the 1 setting equal 100m?

Also, I can understand how to set up the front sight post for vertical POI, but how do you set it horizontally? Can you tap that little plug from side to side, or is it threaded, or what?

Jeez, I sound like a real newb :redface: Does anyboy wanna wipe my arse for me too? lol! :rolleyes:
 
poweredbybeer said:
That's what I was looking for. I wasn't sure whether to use the top edge of the slider or the theoretical middle, I just kinda fudged it until I could shoot decent groups.

That being said, I'm still confused :confused: If the bottom of the scale (the N or U or whatever the hell it is) is 300m, then does that mean the 1 mark equals 300m + 100m = 400m? The profile of the ramp looks fairly straight, how does the bottom setting equal 300m and the 1 setting equal 100m?

Also, I can understand how to set up the front sight post for vertical POI, but how do you set it horizontally? Can you tap that little plug from side to side, or is it threaded, or what?

Jeez, I sound like a real newb :redface: Does anyboy wanna wipe my arse for me too? lol! :rolleyes:
Click to expand...

You'll notice that battle sight setting is stepped up from the tangent curve of the ramp. It elevates to the same height as the 300m setting. Battle sight settings allow the soldier to make quick snap shots without knowing an exact distance but still have reasonable chance of a hit. Likewise, pulling the slide back to the battle sight setting can be done in the dark.

If you slide the sight forward from battle setting to the 100m setting you will notice that it drops slightly. All futher graduations are in 100m increments.

The front sight stud can be moved laterally for windage (it's a friction fit) and the post threads up and down for finer elevation adjustment. A special tool which has both the stud pusher and a notched rod for threading the post up or down is used. Marstar sells them or you can make your own if sufficiently skilled.
 
Aahhhhhhhh ok, now I get it :D Now that you mention it, when I look carefully at the sight ramp from the side, it does go back uphill a tiny bit towards the bottom of the ramp (the machining is so sloppy I kinda thought it was just an accident that it was like that). Explains why I miss the target so often! lol!

So now, it sounds like I need a bloody adjustment tool. I'm guessing you were talking about this one;
AKR-100-AK-SKS-Windage-Tool.jpg

But it looks like it only does windage, isn't there a tool that has both features? It looks like a c-clamp with a 3rd arm coming off the side, with the elevation adjuster wrench on it. Maybe I'm on glue again and I'm seeing things that don't exist :redface:

Regardless, thanx to all, I appreciate the help :)
 
That tool will adjust both windage and elevation of the front sight. The C-clamp portion is for adjusting windage, and elevation adjustment is done with the notched out end above the t-handle.
 
To adjust for windge, I just tap the front site as needed. If you can, you move the front site up or down for your short range zero.

However, don't go insane by wanting a hunting rifle type zero. SKS tend to spray their shots so think of the sights like a Shotgun bead. That is the 'general' area the bullets will land it.

Another reason the elevation scale is silly. When you get 4" vertical dispersions at 100yds, you affectively have sighted in for a whole bunch of distances.

Plus, there is so much slop in the elevation locking tab, any adjustment is more SWAG then actual.

I spent way too much time and ammo trying/hoping to resolve this. Now, older and greyer, I just walk my shots into the target at longer distances.

Jerry
 
Spitzer said:
Here's a good link. http://www.surplusrifle.com/sks/sights/hs.asp

I wonder if you could just make a sight adjustment tool from a small "C" clamp? Could grind a small socket for the elevation? Some just use a brass punch and mallet.
Click to expand...


I tried that and it isn't worth the trouble. The best way would be to weld a small socket to the face of a C clamp big enough to let the sight post barrel move into it. The next problem is that a C clamp is a little wide to sit flat on the sight and not ride up the curve of the rifle barrel, and the screw part of the clamp is to big to just push the sight post barrel. By the time I'd alterd it to try to make it work I'd screwed up the clamp so much that I tossed it away. I got my tool from E bay. It was cheap($5.99) and was no prob to Canada
 
mysticplayer said:
However, don't go insane by wanting a hunting rifle type zero.
Click to expand...

My sentiments exactly, I have no delusions that my SKS is a match-grade target rifle. However, my desire for consistency eventually overrode my excitement at spraying large quantities of FMJ downrange, which is why I had to ask the question ;) www.surplusrifle.com looks good, I didn't realize how much SKS specific info was on there! I suppose I'll take a closer look :D Thanx again for all the help everyone!
 
And that is why the SKS is so much fun. There is no pretense of performance. Just blast away large quantities of cheap ammo. Make a lot of noise. No stress, lots of fun.

You even don't have to chase empties
Jerry
 
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