SKS Muzzle Breaks?

Drachenblut

Drachenblut

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Hello All,

I have a pair of SKS Carbines, and I am looking at buying a SKS Muzzle Break. I am looking for the most recoil reduction and accuracy enhancement possible. I know of 3 kinds of muzzle break, and they are shown below:

http://www.marstar.ca/ac-AIM/images/AIM-PJS003B-L.jpg

http://www.marstar.ca/ac-AIM/images/AIM-PJS005T-L.jpg

http://www.marstar.ca/ac-AIM/images/AIM-PJS001P-L.jpg

Does anyone have experience with them? Which did you use? What successes or problems did you have with them?

Does someone here happen to sell them, as I am interested. I have used the first type and had excellent success with it, but am interested in the second type. Suggestions?

Cheer,
Drachenblut
 
I have the 3rd one and its alright. Noticeable recoil reduction without alot of extra muzzle blast to the shooter. Id try the other 2 first but havent used them so no comment there.
 
AIM-PJS003B-L.jpg


AIM-PJS005T-L.jpg


AIM-PJS001P-L.jpg
 
I called Marstar and have ordered 2 of the long/screw lock type. The "new" one, the twist on, was totally sold out.

Interesting that AIM and NcStar make the exact same product...
 
What recoil? The felt recoil on an SKS is about the same as that of an M1 Carbine. As in none. Muzzle jump is another thing, but there isn't much of that either. A brake, not a break, on an SKS is decorative. So buy the one you think is slick.
 
Actually, I have found that the redirection of gases of the "muzzle brake" plus my scope, offhand, has let me knick nickles at 150 yards in groups of less than 1.5 inches.

I was considering drilling further holes into that muzzle break, of the type pictured last above, in order to release further gases. Is this a good idea? (I was considering down the two sides of the middle chamber area of the brake)
 
Drachenblut said:
Actually, I have found that the redirection of gases of the "muzzle brake" plus my scope, offhand, has let me knick nickles at 150 yards in groups of less than 1.5 inches.

I was considering drilling further holes into that muzzle break, of the type pictured last above, in order to release further gases. Is this a good idea? (I was considering down the two sides of the middle chamber area of the brake)
Click to expand...

if you had a indexing head or rotary table it would be possible but you wont know what the results are going to be untill it's to late to go back ,I dont think there would be mutch point doing it free hand ,if the gas dispersment makes that mutch differance getting it wrong or drilled uneven may be a problem,but if there cheap enough what the heck, nothing ventured nothing gained,as long as your having fun doing it , LOL .Roger
 
Go with the NC star (option #1)

The design is pretty cool in that it vents gasses upward reducing recoil induced muzzle jump. It allows you to stay on target better when firing quickly.

Another advantage to this is the "U" shaped bold on piece that locks it into place. The last thing you need to have a muzzle brake come loose and actually have it shot off - it raises a few health concerns!

The weight of the piece is really the only drawback - but look at this in two ways:
1 - it adds more weight the end of the barrel which negatively affects the balancing of the rifle
2 - the weight of the brake alone reduces the amount of recoil.

I'm very pleased with the design - and the price of this unit! It also looks bad a$$ which has to count for something too ;)
 
I fired 160 rounds today and came home with the conclusion that I too need a brake. I was getting dinner plate size groups at 100 yds with iron sights.
 
I recently bought the NcStar pin on long muzzle brake from Marstar. Be forewarned that the muzzle brakes offered may not fit perfectly to your rifle. The one I ordered was just a hair too loose on mine, and you don't want that. Tight is good, loose is bad. I think they may be designed for the Chinese rifle, at least according to the reviews I read online.

That said, I did a cheap "fix" (don't laugh): I used a scalpel and cut a few tiny strips of aluminum tape and placed them where the brake sits on the barrel. I distributed them evenly so it won't put the brake out of alignment and used a rubber mallet to smack the brake on, then I pinned it. Very tight fit and aluminum tape will not burn, so it just might work. On the other hand, the heat from the barrel might melt the adhesive and the whole thing might fall off, or the tape may very well have put the brake slightly out of alignment and I'll be shaving bullets and potentially wrecking my rifle. But what the heck, it's all in the name of science.

I haven't tested this yet, so I don't know if it will hold. I'll let you know how it works once the weather improves.
 
Sadosubliminal said:
I recently bought the NcStar pin on long muzzle brake from Marstar. Be forewarned that the muzzle brakes offered may not fit perfectly to your rifle. The one I ordered was just a hair too loose on mine, and you don't want that. Tight is good, loose is bad. I think they may be designed for the Chinese rifle, at least according to the reviews I read online.

That said, I did a cheap "fix" (don't laugh): I used a scalpel and cut a few tiny strips of aluminum tape and placed them where the brake sits on the barrel. I distributed them evenly so it won't put the brake out of alignment and used a rubber mallet to smack the brake on, then I pinned it. Very tight fit and aluminum tape will not burn, so it just might work. On the other hand, the heat from the barrel might melt the adhesive and the whole thing might fall off, or the tape may very well have put the brake slightly out of alignment and I'll be shaving bullets and potentially wrecking my rifle. But what the heck, it's all in the name of science.

I haven't tested this yet, so I don't know if it will hold. I'll let you know how it works once the weather improves.
Click to expand...

Mine is mounted on a 51 Tula and it fits perfectly with the screws tightened up - no movement in it at all. I think its just the brake itself is produced with "sloppy" tolerances. The finish isn't 100% but for the price, anyone with a little DIY skills can surely correct any problems such as the above post demonstrated. there were little barbs of steel still on the inside of mine from where it was drilled. I just took a phillips head screwdriver and stuck it in the hole, twisted it, and cleared all the little metal bits away.

I wouldn't trust my rifle to a twist on brake... knowing me it would shake lose and I would probably shoot the damn thing off
 
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