SKS - removing the bayonet standard (not grinding it off)

fat tony

fat tony

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I am removing the bayonet standard from an SKS barrel. I am having some difficulty. I DID have success in completely removing one of the cross pins, that was well and good. I had to resort to gripping the pin about 1/8" back of the tip of the punch with locking pliers, to get the drift to drive out the cross pin. However, my drift gave up the ghost shortly after that (too much stress from bending and bending it back with pliers).I am going to pick up another set of drifts later, and have another go at it. This time however, I am going to use a 1/2" steel block with a suitable hole drilled in it to support the punch properly to facilitate the transmission of force to where it's needed. Currently, I have the part in question soaking in penetrating oil.

Another thing I am afraid of is that the end of the pin might have become mushroomed slightly from all the futile drift hits on it, and the cross pin seems to have gone only so far and stopped cold. Maybe I should try drifting it out the other way? :confused: best regards, Tony :wave:
 
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fat tony said:
I am removing the bayonet standard from an SKS barrel. I am having some difficulty. I DID have success in completely removing one of the cross pins, that was well and good. I had to resort to gripping the pin about 1/8" back of the tip of the punch with locking pliers, to get the drift to drive out the cross pin. However, my drift gave up the ghost shortly after that (too much stress from bending and bending it back with pliers).I am going to pick up another set of drifts later, and have another go at it. This time however, I am going to use a 1/2" steel block with a suitable hole drilled in it to support the punch properly to facilitate the transmission of force to where it's needed. Currently, I have the part in question soaking in penetrating oil.

Another thing I am afraid of is that the end of the pin might have become mushroomed slightly from all the futile drift hits on it, and the cross pin seems to have gone only so far and stopped cold. Maybe I should try drifting it out the other way? :confused: best regards, Tony :wave:
Click to expand...

I used a small pin punch, and they came out easily. You will have to tap the front sight/bayonet holder off.
 
^used both so far. I guess the barrel must have been free to 'recoil' slightly when it was in the vise, I recall the old punch was getting mushroomed, if so, the pin head was probably free to get mushroomed to an extent as well. For a time I went over to my woodworking vise to hold it as it is sort of an awkward shape to hold, therefore, it probably was not a solid enough work holding device. I think it will be okay now, I will tackle it when I am good and ready. I have 2 of the Stanley 1/16" punches just in case.
 
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I have made some progress. I had to drill out the rear pin on the bayonet standard. I was thinking of going larger, but I decided I should go no larger than 3/32", in case the drill wandered and broke through the bore. Anyways, it was not perfectly centered, so when the drill broke through, I received a nice 'trophy' - the remains of the pin. :D The gas port and forend ferrrule are loose, all I have to do now is finish tapping off the bayonet standard. I finally got it started with a good sized ball pein hammer and a nice bronze rod, but had to call it a day as it was late by then. Best regards all.

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the SKS barrel has eaten one more drift. :D

PS: I am in the hole for the set up time which was required to align my drilling jig with the prick punch marks on the end of the retaining pin. That took a lot of time.
 
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Anyways, this ball pein hammer I used was about 2 lbs and the brass drift was 3/4" in diameter and about 8" long. If I was to do it again, I would get some of those vee block inserts for the bench vise and shim it up a little better. The more support for the barrel in the vise the better the job will go.
 
At this point how do you remove the bayo lug, for lack of a better term? Torch and sweat out the solder? For a shooter SKS, it looks much better without the bracket.
 
It was a surplus barrel I bought from a cgn member in the exchange. I mainly wanted it for the barrel. I still have to remove the operating rod / rear sight housing. I'll get around to it someday. Nice bore all it has is a little pitting about half way up - the price was right.

Edit: this is a shrink fit type of deal, there is no solder involved. They heat up the front sight base and tap it on, when it cools it tightens on there considerably - that is why it is so difficult to remove.
 
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