SKS Sear Shortening

jt_trouble

jt_trouble

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Hey all,

Well I couldn't resist the urge and bought myself another SKS. So now I have to go through the rigors of getting it set up the way I want. And the first thing on my list is giving it a trigger job. Unfortunately surplusrifle.com has up and disappeared, pity I didn't save the webpages relating to different ways to tinker/mod the rifle. So I got some info from youtube on trigger jobs. One of the step the guy does is shorten the sear to take up the excess creep in the trigger. I sent him a message on youtube and facebook but yet to receive a response ... so that bring me here.

Is it the angled side of the sear that you remove material from while maintaining the angle?

Or is the the flat side?

I couldn't really tell from the video, his fingers get in the way of a clear shot.


Alright folks ... fire away.
 
There is a really good article here: http://yooperj.com/SKS-25.htm

Basically before you do anything you are going to need to know where the parts rub. Get a marker and mark the surfaces, then operate the trigger/hammer (watch your knuckles). You'll see the rear top of the sear has rub marks from the hammer. Don't shave so much that the rifle can bump fire. I shave mine so there is about .8mm to 1.0mm of engagement, and it should run slightly uphill. I carry mine in the brush quite a bit so I keep about a 4-5lbs trigger.

Make sure all the safeties work after you remove material. The disconnector should still catch the hammer if the sear moves back without bolt in the proper position.

Good luck, let us know how it goes.
 
I disagree with the information in the video. The creep in the trigger group is a form of a safety when the trigger group has negative or neutral sear engagement which this trigger group has. To remove the creep and keep the trigger safe you have to change the sear engagement to slightly positive and then remove the creep. In my opinion anybody that takes a grinding wheel or belt sander to a sear is a hack and looking for trouble. Check out the following link and if you follow the instructions and take your time you will have a trigger as smooth as silk with no creep. I also recommend you use a new sear or a used sear.

http://sailorcurt.com/category/sks/
 
Thanks for info gents!

I've changed springs and polished the channels before, but never tried what is done in the video. I was going to try and order a couple extra sears and try it out before committing to potentially wrecking the one that came with the rifle.

I am going to order new springs for sure. I like what they did for my last sks. But the trigger pull was still heavier than I like. I know this isn't a sporting/hunting rifle with a 3lb pull, but would like to get some semblance to it lol
 
bjs7293 said:
In my opinion anybody that takes a grinding wheel or belt sander to a sear is a hack and looking for trouble.
Click to expand...

Agreed. I used a fine diamond file for most of the removal, and a 4000 grit wet stone for the rest.

For polishing the rails and grooves I used a piece of leather glued to a Popsicle stick with polishing compound on it. It took "forever" but worth it.

The point is not to remove a bunch of metal, but to contour what's there and mate the surfaces.
 
bjs7293 said:
I disagree with the information in the video. The creep in the trigger group is a form of a safety when the trigger group has negative or neutral sear engagement which this trigger group has. To remove the creep and keep the trigger safe you have to change the sear engagement to slightly positive and then remove the creep. In my opinion anybody that takes a grinding wheel or belt sander to a sear is a hack and looking for trouble. Check out the following link and if you follow the instructions and take your time you will have a trigger as smooth as silk with no creep. I also recommend you use a new sear or a used sear.

http://sailorcurt.com/category/sks/
Click to expand...
I watched the video and I have this reccomendation. Cutting a positive engagement with a stone is going to take forever. Take your sear to a machine shop and explain with a drawing what you want. I am going to do this procedure on monday with a mill and carbide endmill and I will let you know how long it takes. My guess is less than ten minutes. That being said the video does an outstanding job of explaining the process and what is going on.
 
As for the original question about which side he's modifying- after the shot at the belt sander, he shows the 'polished' side, which is the bevelled side.

I've been 'training' with my sks as stock for a while, getting it tuned in for hunting in three weeks. After that, I'm willing to sacrifice some time and a sear as an experiment of what 'can' be done!

I'll take video and post it.
 
ALLS London said:
As for the original question about which side he's modifying- after the shot at the belt sander, he shows the 'polished' side, which is the bevelled side.

I've been 'training' with my sks as stock for a while, getting it tuned in for hunting in three weeks. After that, I'm willing to sacrifice some time and a sear as an experiment of what 'can' be done!

I'll take video and post it.
Click to expand...

Thanks for clarifying that. I couldn't really tell from then angle and his fingers in the way ;)
 
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