sks steel target question

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zombiepoo

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I purchased a 1/4 inch mild steel plate and thought it would be sufficient for a reusable target for my sks. Turned out that it went right through it, so my question is ... "what is the minimal thickness of hard steel needed to prevent 7.62x39 from piercing it.?" I dont want to pay more then I have to and keep wasting time and money unnecessarily on chewed up metal. Please and thanx.
 
I'm surprised it went through... how close are you shooting at it? I wouldn't shoot less than 100 yards for safety sake... maybe try half inch, that should survive 100 yards
 
If you want a piece of steel that will last a lifetime regardless of what you throw at it, and whatever the distance you shoot it from... Get genuine 1/2" AR-500 steel.

They are not cheap, but if you shop around the prices can be quite reasonable.

Pay a few hundred bucks for the armor plate, get good quality shackles and chain for another 100 bucks, and you have a target that lasts longer than the owner, rather than buying endless cheap targets.

Spend once and spend smartly. Don't just account for what you will shoot at it, but what your friends will too lol.

My 1/2" AR-500 armor plates have withstood hundreds of rounds of .50bmg and .338LM, and likely by now thousands of combined rounds from .308, .223, and every caliber in between, and those targets are completely smooth to the touch. No cratering or deformation, even on bullet strikes at the edges of the steel.


Spend smartly my friends.
 
Thickness isnt the measurement you should be looking at. Its hardness that is key. I'm not surprised at all that your rounds went through that steel plate. Especially if using FMJ's.
You need Abrasion Resistant (AR500, AR550) steel plate.

I have one that's 10" and is holds up incredibly well against FMJ x39, x54 and lead 30-30, 308 and slugs from 70 yrds and up.
 
It's no surprise steel core went through the 1/4" mild steel. A stated above it's hardness you need. The only mild steel targets I use are for handgun, and thse plates are3/4".
 
Anything less than ar500 1/2 metal will just go right through. Make sure your targets are angled down by 5 or 10 degrees to prevent bounce-backs.
 
fiddler said:
Anything less than ar500 1/2 metal will just go right through. Make sure your targets are angled down by 5 or 10 degrees to prevent bounce-backs.
Click to expand...

At 100 yards would it still be necessary to angle it?
How would you do that if it's hanging by a chain.
 
Buy AR500 3/8 thick and hang from chains, I've got over 500 rounds of .308, 7.62x39, 7.62x54R and another 500 of 9mm on my plates and there is not a scratch. I just bought cans of white spray paint and give a quick coat after every shoot. U can shoot both sides of steel too. Rifle should be 100 or more yards, pistol I shoot 10 or more yards away.
 
Build a frame to hang-2x4s, steel whatever u have, couple pieces of short thick chain and some S hooks from Home Depot and your plate will swing freely.
 
I just hang mine straight from the chain.

I have shot my steel with .223 from 15 meters and left tiny little pockmarks about 1/64" deep, but still smooth to the touch. (Note: I don't recommend this for safety reasons due to shrapnel)

750 grain .50BMG ball will not even scratch the target at 100 meters, it just takes the paint off.

Had a chance to witness some military testing on this stuff a while back, .50BMG API will leave a small 1/4" crater in it, but no penetration. The only cartridge that I have ever seen penetrate 1/2" AR500 was some exotic .338LM AP ammo at 200 yards, poked through like it wasn't even there, looked like a drill made the hole.


long story short, you won't harm this stuff unless you are shooting serious military grade munitions at it.
 
Kevin M. said:
I just hang mine straight from the chain.

I have shot my steel with .223 from 15 meters and left tiny little pockmarks about 1/64" deep, but still smooth to the touch. (Note: I don't recommend this for safety reasons due to shrapnel)

750 grain .50BMG ball will not even scratch the target at 100 meters, it just takes the paint off.

Had a chance to witness some military testing on this stuff a while back, .50BMG API will leave a small 1/4" crater in it, but no penetration. The only cartridge that I have ever seen penetrate 1/2" AR500 was some exotic .338LM AP ammo at 200 yards, poked through like it wasn't even there, looked like a drill made the hole.


long story short, you won't harm this stuff unless you are shooting serious military grade munitions at it.
Click to expand...
What method do u use to attach plates to chain?
 
Outwest1213 said:
What method do u use to attach plates to chain?
Click to expand...

I use either 5/8" or 3/4" D shackles, the type you can buy at any hardware store. Big and strong, and will survive a few direct bullet hits or thousands of rounds of shrapnel before giving way.

For chain I went overkill and used grade 70 5/16", the gold coloured stuff used for transport trucks and tow chains. 4700lb strength and very durable. They have been tit plenty of times with bad shots, and barely even nicks the stuff, never had one break yet.

To get that stuff will probably be $25- 40 bucks of hardware per target, but you won't have to replace the in a long time, and forget about constantly going downrange to rehang the target when the wire or rope get cut.
 
AR500 or equivalent ''impact wear steel" are the way to go. Hard to source uncut plate in low quantities for those who like to DIY.

I made some quick, cheap and dirty gongs for a weekend shoot last year out of 1/2" mild steel plate (scrap steel.. hence 'cheap and dirty')
This gong was set up at approx 120 yards. Ammo: 7.62x39 surplus Czech and Russian.
The gongs held up for a weekend shoot but multiple hits in the same crater will form a hole. The gong in this pic is now a workshop ornament reminding me of the power 7.62x39 can produce. Great conversion piece/ paper weight.

DSC03146.jpg
 
Part of the big thing many guys misunderstand about shooting mild steel is that it can be extremely dangerous because the crater from previous round can act as a U-turn for shrapnel from and rounds fired after that. This highly increases your risk.

To avoid this issue, one must use only hardened steel so that the splash doesn't have any craters to "U-turn".
 
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