Any one recommend a smith to do a trigger job on a SKS............not interested in the Wolf failure to fire springs or sear surprise FA by the do it yourselfer.I have one that is easily 12lbs of washboard pulling an anvil. Want 3.5-4 lbs with minimal to no creep.
SKS trigger job
- Thread starter mbogo3
- Start date
Take up is harder to get rid of due to the design but creep is easy to remove if you know what you're doing. You want to ensure you do not have a negative angle on your sear surface first but the sear is simply shortened to reduce creep. When coupled with an overtravel stop you can make the SKS trigger exceptionally nicer than any issue trigger.
Sorry, i mistakened creep for take up!
I do my own. It’s one of the simplest trigger grouosmout there and plenty of info is available on the net, if you’re a patient man who is good with tools a good clean break can be achieved... plus, if you ruin it, a replacement is cheap, just be sure to pay attention to a through safety inspection and don’t take chances / shortcuts.
coleman1495
CGN Ultra frequent flyer
- Location
- Whitecourt
Totally wrong. It’s not hard but requires that a person does it correctly. There is lots of great resources to assist a person.
What is dangerous is many of the SKS rifles that come with negative sear engagement.This needs to be rectified before using it.
lol major flaw in the video! for the safety test he hit everywhere BUT THE MOST IMPORTANT DIRECTION. You gotta hit the trigger group on the front face to simulate the recoil of the gun. Its the recoil of the gun in the direction of the sear travel that causes improper trigger jobs to allow for an un controllable discharge. There is even a slight risk of this happening with the stock trigger groups and hence why like the fellow in the video mentions, its so important to never rely on the SKS's safety. Always keep the chamber empty until u want to shoot something.
Hes actually right. ANY modification done by even the best of professionals that results in an improvement to the trigger pull weight or a reduction in the creep is doing so by essentially making the sear less jammed under the hammer. The big question is, how much safety are you willing to part with. My beloved SKS named Sasha has a trigger job done by yours truely that resulted in a smooth 4 pound break. I also added an overtravel stop. I did the recoil simulation test in the shop before assembly and it passed, and its been functioning fine in the rifle for the last 6 YEARS! That being said, i bet if the recoil test was done to the extreme, my trigger would fail before a stock 12lb sks trigger would.
I bought the wolff trigger spring pack. Then wet sanded all the sear surfaces with a finish 1500 grit wet sand paper. This kept the sear the same size/ angles for safety reasons. The trigger pull is the same distance but half as heavy and breaks decently crisp. It's no 2 pound match trigger but a reliable upgrade. Done it to 2 and it is basically impossible to screw up. It costs around 15 bucks to throw in the spring set on a brownells order and a few minutes of elbow grease.
coleman1495
CGN Ultra frequent flyer
- Location
- Whitecourt
Often SKS rifles have negative sear engagement.Basically the engagement surface of the sear is angled so that the hammer would slide off the sear.Positive sear engagement means the sear is angled the opposite direction. This means the force required to break the trigger increases as the sear moves.
You want to have slightly positive sear engagement. If a person polishes the sear and ensures that it has a slight positive angle they have done well. This not only gives a better trigger pull but also makes it safer.
The SKS that came in my CanAm combo had a terrible trigger pack. Not only was the trigger pull bad but it would also discharge unintentionally. After some research I polished the sear surfaces and gave it a proper sear angle. Not only is the trigger better but it’s also much safer.
It is irresponsible to say that SKS triggers should not be worked on. The quality and fitment of the SKS rifles varies greatly.
Quoted for truth, well said coleman1495. I get that some people don't know what they're doing and see the real possibility of screwing up but the info is out there to do it right.
Ignorant comment. But since this regards BASIC firearm safety and mechanical understanding, I feel obligated to indulge.
First off, I recommend you study up on the sks, my friend. A lot.
The heavy, gritty trigger of the sks is part of the sks safety. It has no hammer block or firing pin block to prevent negligent discharge. Essentially, the sks safety is a FRICTION safety with a trigger bar disconnect-- that's why negative sear engagement isn't actually a problem on an unaltered rifle. That's also a result of the design-- i.e. INTENTIONAL
The heavy gritty trigger don't give rat's behind about sear-to-hammer engagement.
With a round chambered, and the safety lever in the 'safe' position, the only thing preventing the hammer from falling on the chambered round is the friction between the sear and the hammer.
Even if it's done by the most experienced gunsmith, smoothing the contact surfaces and/or shortening the sear on the sks is like removing the grip tape from steps in a staircase and then coating them with butter....
Sure, you'll get downstairs a whole lot faster, but it won't always be a pain free trip to back down to the first floor.
The safest way to get better groups out of the sks -- which was never designed for DMR accuracy, btw -- is to glass bed the stock, free float the barrel, and remove the bayonet.
And then range time.
Leave the trigger -- and safety -- as they are. That's how they were designed.
And then range time.
Leave the trigger -- and safety -- as they are. That's how they were designed.
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