Lol. You forgot about the sear spring. And reality.
SKS trigger job
- Thread starter mbogo3
- Start date
Lol. You forgot about the sear spring. And reality.
These vids in the following link explain and tell you how a proper tigger job on a SKS is done and am sure most so called gunsmiths do the same thing.
http://sailorcurt.com/category/sks/
http://sailorcurt.com/category/sks/
coleman1495
CGN Ultra frequent flyer
- Location
- Whitecourt
Post 9? Doesn’t work at my end.Looks like the image didn’t post.
Sorry but i was not able to play anything, just coding showed up
It was working but since sh!t the bed
To the brim.
BeaverMeat
CGN Ultra frequent flyer
- Location
- Nanaimo, B.C.
One thing he missed is a sharpe/felt pen to check for even sear contact. I did a DYI trigger job and it was quite helpful to get it right.
I take it back. I highly encourage you to do trigger jobs on all of your sks's.
You're really testing limits of your GED.
The sear spring only returns the sear to it's intial position once the hammer releases. It has zero strength to overcome the force of the hammer spring or the friction coefficient of the sear-to-hammer engagement.
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PinkyPlinker
CGN Ultra frequent flyer
- Location
- Kenora, ON
Wow, you’re quite the piece of work. Before you get all condescending, perhaps you should read up on hammer/sear engagement.
As your first victim correctly stated, negative engagement is very common in the SKS. If your trigger has negative engagement you MUST correct it. Neutral is acceptable but it really needs to be slightly positive to be safe. This is safe and easy for just about anyone to do.
Except maybe you.
coleman1495
CGN Ultra frequent flyer
- Location
- Whitecourt
I am confused why you think the SKS is suppose to operate like this. Where are you reading this?
Was my crappy combo SKS suppose to discharge by itself? Polishing the surfaces and fixing the sear angle has stopped the rifle from going off without pulling the trigger.
I can't help but think maybe you are giving the Soviets too much credit. I think the sear angle varies because it was produced in a Commie factory. It varies for the same reason that the barrel is shot out after ~1000rds or the hammer springs wear out. The sear is rough because nobody in the factory cared.
"We pretend to work, they pretend to pay us" -Pretty much sums it up.
Another GED certificate holder I take it.
Sorry, I can't really dumb it down for you. But because this involves firearm safety, I will give it another shot...
New manufacture SKS's never had positive engagement. Why? Because they weren't designed that way.
The bearing surface of a factory new sks sear is not machined for positive engagement. Find a factory new, replacement sear and you will see that they are all machined for neutral to negative engagement. Neutral and negative engagement were entirely acceptable for issued carbines because safety mechanism in the sks is based on the coefficient of friction between the sear and hammer.
I will agree that negative engagement can present a problem on a well worn sear or hammer base, but neutral to minimal negative engagement on the sks is (to beat the dead horse) 100% intrinsic to the sks design.
Un-issued 59/66's are a perfect example of this. Many pristine, unissued and (seemingly) unfired 59/66's have been imported into the US market over the past decade. And you will not find a single one of them that has positive sear-to-hammer engagement. These new guns all exhibit neutral to very minor negative sear-to-hammer engagement.
Where negative engagement becomes a serious safety issue is when the bearing surfaces are extremely worn from use, or from modification by DIY garage gunsmiths.
The modification of "positive" sear-to-hammer engagement is a very recent modification that US based gunsmiths popularized to "improve' upon the heavy gritty trigger inherent to the sks design. These knowledgeable gunsmiths understand that machining and polishing the bearing surface of the sear for a smoother trigger, as well as modestly shortening the sear for a shorter pull and cleaner break, invariably compromise the safety function as it is designed in the sks. Because of this, they intentionally machined the sks sear to add "positive" engagement. Kivaari and Murray's are two US base gunsmiths who perform the modification.
The sks safety function is based entirely on an extremely high coefficient of friction between the bearing surfaces of the hammer and the sear. It does not block the hammer. It does not block the firing pin. It does not involve the disengagement of a transfer bar. The sks safety is based entirely on FRICTION. In many ways, the sks safety functions like a parking brake. Wear over time, or modifications to the bearing surfaces on the shoe or drum will eventually compromise the function of the brake.
The sear spring has virtually ZERO part in this safety function. It only returns the sear to the ready position in order to fire the next round. Using the parking brake analogy, the sear return spring has about as much function in the sks safety as the cigarette lighter has in keeping your car from rolling downhill.
Minimal Negative, and neutral engagement are acceptable if it the trigger pull is heavy and gritty (as designed) and the sear is unmodified. Again, I encourage you to examine the sear-to-hammer engagement on unissued rifles. They will all be neutral to modestly negative-- and the trigger pull (both take-up and creep) will be heavy, long and gritty.
Want a more accurate sks? Bed the stock, float the barrel, remove the bayonet.
And maybe take jaroslov's advice:
;]
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I am not familiar with your predicament or particulars of your sks.
Can you please link the thread where your rifle was discussed?
coleman1495
CGN Ultra frequent flyer
- Location
- Whitecourt
This thread. Read my prior posts. What information are you looking for specifically?
Photos of the rifle would be helpful. Condition of the rifle when you got it. Matching? All serial stamps in the same font, or minor to more obvious variations between the metal stamped fonts?
I'm not poor-mouthing the Canadian imports, but many of them were modified by importers and distributors. Not the triggers so much as the external condition of many of Canadian imports exhibit obvious signs of having been modified to improve aesthetic an collector appeal. Though many of them may appear unissued -- they may in fact be well worn and/or refurbished guns.
Wish we could still get the Russian variants for the Canadian prices. You guys get so many 1949's up there. NO such luck down here. And forget sending your kid to college (in america that is) if you find a '49 in the states.
You can also PM me if you don't want to thread stomp.
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coleman1495
CGN Ultra frequent flyer
- Location
- Whitecourt
It's a low quality refurb. Production year of 51. Serial numbers are matching.It was packed it the cosmoline when I got it. I am not sure when/where they were refurbished. It is one of the ammo/rifle combo guns that CanAm used to sell.
Where are you reading about how the trigger group is suppose to work?
Edit- I should add that the trigger group likely was never touched before I owned it. This is a Commie factory special.
Best guess is that the sear on your rifle was extremely worn when you got it. Or it was modified previously.
It's fairly common on well traveled sks to have sears worn to the point of unshootability.
I have one such well worn gun. A 1958 soviet sneak (via the albanina caches) that I will only shoot with one (sometimes two) rounds in the firearm at a time. It's an all matching gun, but heavily used. The rifle was very well maintained, but being from the albanian caches, it likely never saw refurbishment or tune-up repairs. First time I took it out I put about 40 rounds down range and had three or four unintended discharges (all with the muzzle pointed down range of course).
I would also guess that if I were to take the sear out of my well worn 1958 and compare it to a factory new sear, it would be shorter, and smoother than the factory new sear. The same differences would've also been apparent with your sear prior to the modifications you made.
One important aspect of the positive engagement modification that I forgot to add:
When you machine the sear to add positive engagement, you are actually creating a form a of negative engagement. Meaning that the the new resting position of the cocked hammer will be incrementally further forward and closer to the firing pin (i.e. in the negative direction) than it was prior to the modification.
As it the trigger is pulled the hammer moves rearward (i.e. in the positive direction) before breaking at or near to where it broke prior to modification.
Modest negative movement of the hammer was entirely acceptable on new issue rifles because that's the direction the hammer has to go in order to fire the chambered round. The high coefficient of friction between the sear and cocked hammer are what mitigate unwanted negative/forward movement of the hammer.
When you machine the sear to add positive engagement, you are actually creating a form a of negative engagement. Meaning that the the new resting position of the cocked hammer will be incrementally further forward and closer to the firing pin (i.e. in the negative direction) than it was prior to the modification.
As it the trigger is pulled the hammer moves rearward (i.e. in the positive direction) before breaking at or near to where it broke prior to modification.
Modest negative movement of the hammer was entirely acceptable on new issue rifles because that's the direction the hammer has to go in order to fire the chambered round. The high coefficient of friction between the sear and cocked hammer are what mitigate unwanted negative/forward movement of the hammer.
coleman1495
CGN Ultra frequent flyer
- Location
- Whitecourt
I think you should take your sear out of your Soviet Sneak SKS and take a look at it. I bet it’s typical Soviet crap.
As for my 51 crappy refurb, the sear certainly wasn’t worn smooth. It was rough unprecise Commie machining.
The trigger group has the same serial number as the rest of the gun. I don’t know if that means it’s the original sear. I do know that there if what your saying is correct then that sear must have been installed on multiple SKS rifles. The bore on this rifle is already heavily worn and accuracy is severely diminished after ~1000 rds. The sear certainly wasn’t worn out on this rifle.(Also it is rough machining anyways).
The only other SKS I can compare it too is a Chinese one. That rifles sear is clearly slightly positive engagement.
