sks trigger job
- Thread starter cheeko
- Start date
skeetgunner
CGN Ultra frequent flyer
- Location
- Burlington
I've used the exact proceedure as explained on Surplusrifle.com. Wolf springs are available from Brownells, directly or from TSE, Wolverine etc.
The Wolf spring trick didn't help much with creep, but it did cut a 13lb+ pull (actually off the scale of my scale) down to 8lbs.
The surplusrifle.com method is very good, but neglects to mention the compressing the trigger spring is sort of a three-handed afair. It goes easier with a spare pair of hands.
The Wolf spring trick didn't help much with creep, but it did cut a 13lb+ pull (actually off the scale of my scale) down to 8lbs.
The surplusrifle.com method is very good, but neglects to mention the compressing the trigger spring is sort of a three-handed afair. It goes easier with a spare pair of hands.
Big JD-From the hills
CGN Ultra frequent flyer
- Location
- Saskatchewan.
I find gripping the hammer with say a cresant wrench and then have the lower part in the (padded) vice realy helps... I bought the sks spring pack from wolf directly(along with a bunch of other springs) than i polished up the engagement surfaces... and now its alright.
I too did the Wolf spring perf. pak. and it did improve the feel.Though on one of my cheap SKS's I had the problem with the trigger feeling hard and sometimes feeling like the safety was on, well it was in fact the area around the sear rail, where the mag latch/sear spring pin goes through the trigger housing, that area was pinched. I pried this area open a little and the difference was amazing. The sear didn't bind up any more. And I'd never done anything to this area before and so never thought to check.So check the other stuff too.With disassembly I use tape and tie the disconnector to the body just to keep that out of the way , the hammer should be cocked so you can grip it, then use brute strength to push it out of its slot. The trick is getting it all back together again. This is where the tape really comes in handy. You have to compress the new spring with the rod of the hammer through it and get it in the hole and not bind it. Once thru the hole, you'll have a little more slack to push down and into the slot.I was told but haven't tried, that the outside of the hammer ,where it is pinned in its slot if stoned smooth will greatly improve the gritty feeling. This is NOT where the sear and hammer engage. Don't fiddle with that area till you know what you're doin'. That area of the group is for trigger wieght ie HAIR TRIGGER, NO SAFETY,.
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okay
thanks for your info guys, but I have another question.. if the safety in the sks does not stop the hammer, only stops the triggger from pulling then it is not really safe is it? If you lug the riffle in the bush and there is a chance the hammer creeps up and then let go? I dont know how the trigger system in the sks works yet. any info on this?
cheeko
thanks for your info guys, but I have another question.. if the safety in the sks does not stop the hammer, only stops the triggger from pulling then it is not really safe is it? If you lug the riffle in the bush and there is a chance the hammer creeps up and then let go? I dont know how the trigger system in the sks works yet. any info on this?
cheeko
From what i understand, the trigger is set up on the sks to be difficult to fire on purpose. The sear in these rifles are sloped away from the edge actually causing the hammer to relax first then start to go uphill befroe falling off the backside of the sear. So the hammer shouldn't just fall as it has to go up. And I wouldn't recomend walking around with a chambered round and in battery. #### your empty rifle and hit it on the floor. That should show you if it's safe
Iron Glove
CGN Ultra frequent flyer
- Location
- Hope and Tulameen
Does anyone know what the legalities of sending the SKS trigger to the Kivaari's in the US for the trigger job? Will Canada allow us to send it, the US allow its entry then all back again?
Would seem to be a reasonably priced professional modification that would really make the trigger nice to use. Mine seems to vary from barely OK to pretty tough all in the same 5 shots !
Would seem to be a reasonably priced professional modification that would really make the trigger nice to use. Mine seems to vary from barely OK to pretty tough all in the same 5 shots !
I just got an e mail from Kivaari and he says he has done it with no problems .
I'm still worried the border will screw me .
I think in the early new year I'll send it off .
If I have to buy another trigger if I get screwed it's not the end of the world .
Not like it's a handgun/semi auto/shotgun ban or anything .
I'm still worried the border will screw me .
I think in the early new year I'll send it off .
If I have to buy another trigger if I get screwed it's not the end of the world .
Not like it's a handgun/semi auto/shotgun ban or anything .
Iron Glove
CGN Ultra frequent flyer
- Location
- Hope and Tulameen
Got the same email from Kivaari - let us know how it went. I'm kinda worried about it getting back & forth across the Border.
What I did to smooth out the trigger pull a bit was to take out the sear, put a little valve grinding compound on the sear and sear rails then put the rifle back together and dry fired it a bunch of times then disassembled it, cleaned off the valve grinding compound and put Gunslick on the sear and reassembled it.
Ok , I was going to send my trigger off to Kivaari's to see what he can do with it . 
But then the thought of spending as much as the rifle cost me to see what improvements he can do to the trigger alone got me thinking . Plus the idea of the border hijacking my parts didn't sit well . So I figured I'm not a total idiot , if he can do it , why can't I ?
So I printed off his info plus the info on surplus rifle about it and studied them closely for a couple of days beside my trigger assembly , didn't want to rush into this sort of thing . Doing this requires a complete understanding of how a SKS trigger works and the inplecations if you emove metal it the wrong places . I figured if I mess up I'll buy a new trigger and destroy the old parts .
Kivaari pretty much tells you how he does it if you study his info . A little valve lapping paste and some carefull stoning can eliminate the rough feeling and eliminate creep . To shorten the first stage takes a little more effort but it can be done . I'm still waiting for my Wolff springs but I found a lighter sear spring I'm using temporarily . Now that I'm done it is a night and day difference , the trigger pull has been stortened , it breaks clean with no creep and is smooth plus its a little lighter ( looking forward to the new springs ) .
It works exactly as it should . I cocked the ( empty ) rifle and shook the sh*t out of it , banged the living heck out of it in every possible way and could not get it to fire unless I pulled the trigger .
The biggest thing I found was to first make sure the rifle has positive engagement . mine was negative and if you modify a rifle in this condition it will be very dangerous !!!
I was thinking of doing further into detail on how to do this correctly but I'm not sure if I should tell or show people how to do this . Let alone if anyone is intrested . I'm kinda worried about liabilities and such .
As far as accuracy goes I plan on doing a side by side comparison this coming Sunday . And seeing I figured out how post pictures I'll post the outcome then .
But then the thought of spending as much as the rifle cost me to see what improvements he can do to the trigger alone got me thinking . Plus the idea of the border hijacking my parts didn't sit well . So I figured I'm not a total idiot , if he can do it , why can't I ?
So I printed off his info plus the info on surplus rifle about it and studied them closely for a couple of days beside my trigger assembly , didn't want to rush into this sort of thing . Doing this requires a complete understanding of how a SKS trigger works and the inplecations if you emove metal it the wrong places . I figured if I mess up I'll buy a new trigger and destroy the old parts .
Kivaari pretty much tells you how he does it if you study his info . A little valve lapping paste and some carefull stoning can eliminate the rough feeling and eliminate creep . To shorten the first stage takes a little more effort but it can be done . I'm still waiting for my Wolff springs but I found a lighter sear spring I'm using temporarily . Now that I'm done it is a night and day difference , the trigger pull has been stortened , it breaks clean with no creep and is smooth plus its a little lighter ( looking forward to the new springs ) .
It works exactly as it should . I cocked the ( empty ) rifle and shook the sh*t out of it , banged the living heck out of it in every possible way and could not get it to fire unless I pulled the trigger .
The biggest thing I found was to first make sure the rifle has positive engagement . mine was negative and if you modify a rifle in this condition it will be very dangerous !!!
I was thinking of doing further into detail on how to do this correctly but I'm not sure if I should tell or show people how to do this . Let alone if anyone is intrested . I'm kinda worried about liabilities and such .
As far as accuracy goes I plan on doing a side by side comparison this coming Sunday . And seeing I figured out how post pictures I'll post the outcome then .
Hi Guys,
Just bought an SKS this weekend, took it to the range and ran 100 rounds thru it, it ran flawlessly other than the trigger pull. When I was cleaning it I checked out the trigger group and discovered that it had negative sear engagement . After reading Rick's post I think I will track down Kivari's info and correct the problem. I am pretty sure I can see what needs to be done, but additional info always helps.
Just bought an SKS this weekend, took it to the range and ran 100 rounds thru it, it ran flawlessly other than the trigger pull. When I was cleaning it I checked out the trigger group and discovered that it had negative sear engagement
. After reading Rick's post I think I will track down Kivari's info and correct the problem. I am pretty sure I can see what needs to be done, but additional info always helps.
I've had a trigger job done by Kivaari and he did a nice job. The trigger was pretty bad and he cleaned her up good. I did his test to examine the trigger engagement and it still had negative engagement, but I figure th SKS trigger was never really designed with this in mind. It makes up for it with an extra long pull so you'd have to pull and release the trigger a whole bunch before it became dangerous. Lets face it, the rifle was made for close range trigger jerking not slow pulling target work
I think it's worth the effort sending it to Kivaari if you're not handy yourself, I didn't do as good a job with my other SKS trigger group but it's close.
BTW, I think I wrote "machine parts" or something vague on the package and had no problems. I figure I wasn't lying about the contents, they are machine parts
I think it's worth the effort sending it to Kivaari if you're not handy yourself, I didn't do as good a job with my other SKS trigger group but it's close.
BTW, I think I wrote "machine parts" or something vague on the package and had no problems. I figure I wasn't lying about the contents, they are machine parts
