sks, trigger won't pull.
- Thread starter rbasm
- Start date
Throw it in a stream for a few hours. Then tap it with a hammer( optional), drie it off some, and then give it a good cleaning with lots of oil. She.ll be just fine.
First off if you can't clean a rifle you should not be shooting one
Second, break that rifle down, completely. Remove the gas tube and piston as well as the spring and piston under the rear sight (move the lever all the way up but watch out the spring is under tension), the dust cover and bolt and follower as well as the trigger group and you can now remove the barrel from the stock. Now clean the hell out of everything, you should probably remove the firing pin and clean it as well and make sure that you clean your barrel at this point as well, when everything is clean wipe everything down with a good gun oil and then a clean cloth and then reassemble. If you know what you are doing all of this can be accomplished in less than 15 minutes. No excuse for poor gun maintenance.
Ok enough harassing, does your gun cycle and fire (engage the firing pin) when dry firing?
The safety isn't on/ up is it? {lever next to the trigger on right side} Please be careful playing around with a rifle your not familiar with when it's chambered Sks can slamfire {full auto uncontrolled} if the firing pin and bolt have not been maintained. I fear for you.
Sks can slamfire {full auto uncontrolled} if the firing pin and bolt have not been maintained. I fear for you.
I geuss I'll throw in a constructive post here to round out page 2 of this thread... rbasm, have you done a function test with the rifle unloaded? Did it have any failures while function testing? My geuss is either something wrong with the disconnector or the hammer is not catching the sear while cocking. Could you give a good description of how the trigger feels when pulling it? Does it come back at all, or is it stuck in the forward position etc.
everything functions fine when unloaded. but when it has a round chambered the trigger is locked. (some more ammo for basher) I forgot my cleaning kit when I moved and I'm in a town that doesnt sell g96. can anyone recommend another cleaner. All we have up here is a co-op, windsor plywood and a bunch of marine stores.
Rbasm,
You could mix up some Ed's Red I'm sure that you should be able to find all these ingredients somewhere locally.
CONTENTS: Ed's Red Bore Cleaner
1 part Dexron ATF, GM Spec. D-20265 or later.
1 part Kerosene - deodorized, K1
1 part Aliphatic Mineral Spirits
CAS #64741-49-9, or substitute "Stoddard Solvent", CAS #8052-41-3, or equivalent.
1 part Acetone, CAS #67-64-1.
(Optional 1 lb. of Lanolin, Anhydrous, USP per gallon, or OK to substitute Lanolin, Modified, Topical Lubricant, from the drug store)
MIXING INSTRUCTIONS:
Mix outdoors, in good ventilation. Use a clean 1 gallon metal, chemical-resistant, heavy gage PET or PVC plastic container. NFPA approved plastic gasoline storage containers are OK. Do NOT use HDPE, which is permeable, because the acetone will slowly evaporate. Acetone in ER will attack HDPE over time, causing the container to collapse, making a heck of a mess!
Add the ATF first. Use the empty container to measure the otherainer to measure the other components, so that it is thoroughly rinsed. If you incorporate the lanolin into the mixture, melt this carefully in a double boiler, taking precautions against fire. Pour the melted lanolin it into a larger container, rinsing the lanolin container with the bore cleaner mix, and stirring until it is all dissolved. I recommend diverting up to 4 ozs. per quart of the 50-50 ATF/kerosene mix to use as "ER-compatible" gun oil. This can be done without impairing the effectiveness of the remaining mix.
I copied the above from this site
http://home.comcast.net/~dsmjd/tux/dsmjd/tech/eds_red.htm
You could mix up some Ed's Red I'm sure that you should be able to find all these ingredients somewhere locally.
CONTENTS: Ed's Red Bore Cleaner
1 part Dexron ATF, GM Spec. D-20265 or later.
1 part Kerosene - deodorized, K1
1 part Aliphatic Mineral Spirits
CAS #64741-49-9, or substitute "Stoddard Solvent", CAS #8052-41-3, or equivalent.
1 part Acetone, CAS #67-64-1.
(Optional 1 lb. of Lanolin, Anhydrous, USP per gallon, or OK to substitute Lanolin, Modified, Topical Lubricant, from the drug store)
MIXING INSTRUCTIONS:
Mix outdoors, in good ventilation. Use a clean 1 gallon metal, chemical-resistant, heavy gage PET or PVC plastic container. NFPA approved plastic gasoline storage containers are OK. Do NOT use HDPE, which is permeable, because the acetone will slowly evaporate. Acetone in ER will attack HDPE over time, causing the container to collapse, making a heck of a mess!
Add the ATF first. Use the empty container to measure the otherainer to measure the other components, so that it is thoroughly rinsed. If you incorporate the lanolin into the mixture, melt this carefully in a double boiler, taking precautions against fire. Pour the melted lanolin it into a larger container, rinsing the lanolin container with the bore cleaner mix, and stirring until it is all dissolved. I recommend diverting up to 4 ozs. per quart of the 50-50 ATF/kerosene mix to use as "ER-compatible" gun oil. This can be done without impairing the effectiveness of the remaining mix.
I copied the above from this site
http://home.comcast.net/~dsmjd/tux/dsmjd/tech/eds_red.htm
Does your bolt lock in / go all the forward when there is a live round in the chamber?
Basher
