SKS wimmpy barrel
- Thread starter jbunny
- Start date
- Location
- Spruce Grove, Alberta
Calum said:
I have a see-through receiver mount and it holds zero quite well. Granted, I have to re-zero it every time i clean the rifle, which is every time i shoot, but other than that small fault its not bad. it was made oversize and they tell you to file it a small amount at a time until it fits. that took me two eight hour days because ive read all the bad reviews on this type of mount and i wanted it to work well and was quite careful. I got a good result out of it, im not sure about anyone else's. perhaps my sks was proportioned just right to have a good tight fit with the receiver.
sorry for off topic. as for (semi) on topic, i find a sling gets in the way so i dont use one with my sks... i got lots of junk on the rifle. for my mosin, however, i almost always use sling. im not very proficient with MN, and i find when compared to my friends groups, mine are pulled down and left. they dont use sling, but i do. hmmm....
P.S. nice crosshair front sight...
Last edited:
.
I have yet to see a receiver cover that does not move, and neither have many hundreds if not thousands of SKS shooters in the USA...they all move. The bolt body is slamming into them like a hammer...they will move.
.
this realy got me thinking and looking. if the dust cover
pin ever failed , you would be dead. no the dust cover
is not what stops the bolt on it's rearward travel. the
bolt the part that has the fireing pin is what stops the top
slide and it stops about 5/16 of and inch short of the dust cover. after i had my dust cover in tight there was a little gap on the bottom block where the locking pin goes through. i pushed the pin in and locked it in place without
the dust cover on. i then bent the pin down a tad.
there is no gap on the bottom of my dust cover. that
bent pin has a camming action and sucks the cover down
tight. hope you understand this
Laser man
.
I have yet to see a receiver cover that does not move, and neither have many hundreds if not thousands of SKS shooters in the USA...they all move. The bolt body is slamming into them like a hammer...they will move.
.
this realy got me thinking and looking. if the dust cover
pin ever failed , you would be dead. no the dust cover
is not what stops the bolt on it's rearward travel. the
bolt the part that has the fireing pin is what stops the top
slide and it stops about 5/16 of and inch short of the dust cover. after i had my dust cover in tight there was a little gap on the bottom block where the locking pin goes through. i pushed the pin in and locked it in place without
the dust cover on. i then bent the pin down a tad.
there is no gap on the bottom of my dust cover. that
bent pin has a camming action and sucks the cover down
tight. hope you understand this
Laser man
.
A gunsmith showed me this trick...
Put the receiver cover in a padded vice, hold rifle by the stock and wiggle back and forth...notice receiver cover movement.
The only exception to this rule I have found so far is the receiver cover mounts with the bracing screws/bolts, which tend to help keep things more solid.
I all honesty you are doing so pretty drastic Bubba stuff to a rifle that a military arsenal guy spent time tweaking to a set standard...nothing wrong with creativity, but this is a machine, and one cannot take it too far out of spec before you start to have problems.
For example it's missing the gas tube, and assembly so there is no bracing on the barrel, where the rifle was originally tuned to have it...methinks the flex will be more dramatic under use.
Put the receiver cover in a padded vice, hold rifle by the stock and wiggle back and forth...notice receiver cover movement.
The only exception to this rule I have found so far is the receiver cover mounts with the bracing screws/bolts, which tend to help keep things more solid.
I all honesty you are doing so pretty drastic Bubba stuff to a rifle that a military arsenal guy spent time tweaking to a set standard...nothing wrong with creativity, but this is a machine, and one cannot take it too far out of spec before you start to have problems.
For example it's missing the gas tube, and assembly so there is no bracing on the barrel, where the rifle was originally tuned to have it...methinks the flex will be more dramatic under use.
I think I should expand on my post , I think that the chambers are the realistic end of your accuracy woes . I was assuming that many other problems are cured .
Reciever mounted sights or optics don't work well for long , as stated the covers move . The ones that screw on are not much better and the optics get beat to hell there . To me a scout mount looks like a PITA . I think a Kalinka mount is the way to go but I have not tried it yet .
As for reloading for it , the brass will cost you your left nut ( unless you have some to share ? or a cheap source ) . Awhile ago I costed out reloading for a 1000 rounds and IIRC it was about $700.00 with dies .
(primers/cases/powder/projectile and dies )
Reciever mounted sights or optics don't work well for long , as stated the covers move . The ones that screw on are not much better and the optics get beat to hell there . To me a scout mount looks like a PITA . I think a Kalinka mount is the way to go but I have not tried it yet .
As for reloading for it , the brass will cost you your left nut ( unless you have some to share ? or a cheap source ) . Awhile ago I costed out reloading for a 1000 rounds and IIRC it was about $700.00 with dies .
(primers/cases/powder/projectile and dies )
frt#
it only took me 2 days to get my frt# fo my converted
non auto sks. it's not called a bolt action but called
"OTHER" on the registration cert. i just bought a bottle of trail boss powder and now to find a 150 gr bullet mould
and i should have a mini 300 wisper. hehehehehe
it only took me 2 days to get my frt# fo my converted
non auto sks. it's not called a bolt action but called
"OTHER" on the registration cert. i just bought a bottle of trail boss powder and now to find a 150 gr bullet mould
and i should have a mini 300 wisper. hehehehehe
http://s138.photobucket.com/albums/q273/MOUICH/?action=view¤t=100_0288.flv
for the non beleivers in the wimpy sks barrel here is a short vedio with a dial indicator and SIDE PRESSURE
from my finger which is about 2 lbs and i get .050 thou
deflection. now go shoot of a bench with no sling and
then shoot again with a tight sling and report back.
Do the same thing with any rifle and report back, they all move, and oscillate to one degree or another, so you really haven't discovered anything new.
The key is the have the barrel harmonics the same each time you pull the trigger, adding or removing things to the barrel over even having the barrel resting on a sandbag while shooting it will throw the harmonics off.
Also as the barrel heats up things will move about more.
I pulled out my gas piston once for sh!ts and giggles .
The theory of better accuracy due to no moving parts .
at 50 yards stock it grouped under the size of my fist , taking the rod out it jumped to over a foot .
So much for that .
I also recall reading somewhere that accuracy improves if you have the bayonette deployed , haven't tried that yet . But I'm not holding much hope for that idea to work .
The theory of better accuracy due to no moving parts .
at 50 yards stock it grouped under the size of my fist , taking the rod out it jumped to over a foot .
So much for that .
I also recall reading somewhere that accuracy improves if you have the bayonette deployed , haven't tried that yet . But I'm not holding much hope for that idea to work .
were talking apples and oranges her. i don't claim to
have someting new, oringinaly it was that shooting
without a sling and with a sling . with a sling good and tight u would pull the barrel down and some people
could not beleive that the barrel would bend down with just sling pressure. with just side pressure with the end
of my finger i'm getting .050 thou deflection. this dial
indicator thing came about while checking another
barrel for play. anyhow i won't be boreing u any more.
