Sleeping bags

the chance of meeting rain in Everest are really short cant say the same in our mountains during fall hunting season ... what work in one location may be not in another.
 
Buy a good bag and be happy. Wife bought me a top quality bag 35 years ago and it still rocks. When extremely cold weather I put in a fleecy liner and good to go. Light, compact, good zippers etc. Quality in a sleeping bag is money well spent. Some good brands already mentioned.
 
I'd recommend going to MEC.

About 20 years ago I bought a Jack Wolfskin -28 or -30 sleeping bag at Russell Sports, it was right around $300. Nearly froze my bag off in it. Went and bought a -20 Hybrid bag at MEC, it is FAR warmer.

Also, you'll need to put a bunch of mountain goose feathers under your bag for sleeping.
 
Ya , I don't like sleeping in the mummy bag either but there as warm as expensive bags their efficient and cheap $80-$200
.
Being warm won't help if you can't sleep because you're tied in knots in a danged mummy bag.
One year at moose camp, the damned tent leaked, and soaked my down sleeping bag. I still got a decent, if damp sleep. It was still warm.
 
I like canvis bags no noise wen you rollover in your sleep ther no good for hiking but for base camp there all I use
Last year I picked up -30 big boy sleeping bag from Wholesale sports for under $100 on sale
 
You can have cheap, warm or lightweight/packable - pick any two.

Warm bags can be very light and packable. They are very expensive though. Western Mountaineering is the standard here, but look at the competitions bags too.

Lots of warm bags for cheap, but they are always big and bulky. Nothing suitable for a backpack hunt.

I personally use a MEC Aquila -7 100% down. I find MEC rating is accurate. I slept alone in a tent at -12 and was comfy in my base layer and a touqe. The MEC down bags are high quality at a really good price. Not near as light as the equivalent WM, but a whole heck of a lot cheaper.

If you can't sleep in a mummy perhaps a super good mat (like and exped down) and a mountain quilt is a better option. Pretty tough to justify the added weight of a big sleeping bag on a tough backpack hunt.
 
I have a Marmot down 650 fill mummy bag that is -40 rated. have used it on canoe trips etc. for years with out issue. If it's warm I use it more like a blanket, the colder it gets the more you get in and zipper it up. Very versatile. When put into a Mec compression dry bag it's only the size of a basket ball. It was a very expensive bag. I use it in conjunction with a 1.5" Thermarest.
Also have a Woods 3 Star, all synthetic fills, -30 rated. It is actually two bags. A bag within a bag. I use it when light weight and space is not an issue. Like at a hunt camp or in the camper. Rolled up it is about 18" x 36".
When I was younger and much poorer I used a US army surplus mummy bag that was feather filled. It was not a warm bag, and attracted water like a sponge. I found a Israeli army surplus bag that was new and synthetic filled and had a very generous cut. It was the same style as the US bag, so I used to put the US bag inside the Israeli one. Used them in the moose camp for years.
Buy the bag that most suits your needs and get one rated for colder temps than what you plan on as you can always open it up if to warm. If you want light weight and packs up small your looking at down. Go at least 600 loft fill. Be prepared to pay a good dollar. You won't regret spending one cent of it. You also need a good thermarest insulated mattress underneath it to block out cold and dampness and give you some cushioning so your comfortable. Don't cheap out here either.
 
Anyone who recommends Army Surplus anything in a serious outdoor discussion doesn't know enough about the outdoors to offer an opinion.

I beg to differ.



CAF raingear. The laces round the bottom hem of the pants can be cinched tight enough to make your whole system up to your waist waterproof if you take a dip for 10-15 seconds. Even with rubber boots. However, the boots seen here are not CAF surplus, just surplus.

 
I beg to differ.



CAF raingear. The laces round the bottom hem of the pants can be cinched tight enough to make your whole system up to your waist waterproof if you take a dip for 10-15 seconds. Even with rubber boots. However, the boots seen here are not CAF surplus, just surplus.


We do the same thing well commercial fishing for crabs off Haida Gwaii exept we are wearing Healy Hansen rain gear gumboots and use elastics bands made from old Innertube
I use to use army surplus gear wen I was a kid but grew out of it and as I got older and had more money I upgraded
 
Hey All, this may be a long winded post, however...

I would agree with some of the posters here, I will add types of bags and the pros and cons of both synthetic insulation and down, and a few other notes:

I have owned several types of both insulation bags, but have pretty much upgraded all mine to down bags (have about 10 ranging from 4c to -40. Lol
You either can get a mummy bag, barrel bag (sacrifice thermal efficiency for more room/comfort), or rectangular bag (same as barrel)

Mummy

Mummy bags are designed to save weight and maximize heat retention. The tapered, narrow shape means that your body has less space to heat inside the bag. Most have an integrated hood that you can cinch closed over your head to keep heat inside. They offer superior warmth to weight than a roomier bag. However, some people find them too constricting to get a good night’s sleep.
•Lightest weight
•Smallest pack size
•Most thermally efficient shape

Barrel

A more relaxed shape than a mummy bag, they are more spacious and often don’t have a hood attached. A good compromise if you like to sprawl a bit when you sleep, but still want a light, compact bag.
•Heavier
•Larger packing
•Less thermally efficient than a mummy bag

Rectangular

Great for warm weather, a rectangular shape is the roomiest option but the shape creates additional space inside that bag that your body has to heat. They are best for car camping and for sleeping out when the temperature stays above zero.
•Least thermally efficient
•Roomiest
•Can be opened as a comforter
•Bulky and heavy
•Easy to zip two bags together

Insulation

Pros of Synthetic:
Cheaper $ wise
good in damp/wet weather
hypoallergenic
easier to wash/maintain

Cons of synthetic:
Heavier (than down)
Bulkier (for same temp rating)
Do not last as long as down (tend to get "cold spots" where insulation has shifted/broken)

Pros of Down:
lighter (for temp rating)
less bulky (by far)
last longer

Cons of down:
Pricey $$$ (usually 3x or more)
not as good in damp/wet weather as synthetic
not as easy to wash/maintain


For down, fill-power is a good indicator of quality. It’s expressed as the number of cubic inches an ounce of down displaces. Higher fill-power provides more warmth for the same weight.
•500-550 is OK
•600-700 is good
•750-850 is excellent

As for my comments earlier about upgrading to down or buying down for that matter. It is all about the affordability. Down bags to last years longer than synthetic, so there comes a point of depreciation where it will be close to cost, however this is relative to how often you use it. Personally I always would recommend saving up and getting a good quality down bag. Nothing worse that having a craptacular sleep because you wake up cold, and uncomfortable and realize you still have days to camp.

For sleeping systems I would definitely recommend a sleeping pad (I have a exped downmat 9) like others, but they are definitely NOT cheap. For altitude, you may want a closed cell mat (like thermarest z rest) There are also newer style insulated inflatables (like msr neo air) they compress to the smallest I have seen (I have the regular size one I use for summer backpacking trips, but find it too narrow)

If using ANY sleeping bag, I would definitely use a liner (silk is best) to increase the life of your bag, as the oils from your skin, will affect the insulation making it not as efficient. A fleece liner will add 5-10 deg celcius rating to your bag as well.

If on weather sub zero, I would recommend a vapour barrier liner (VBL) it is specialized, but is essential for longer trips in sub zero temps. Vapour barriers are inside bag liners of plastic which completely trap all moisture emanating from your body. The theory is that once your body is saturated with a base load of moisture, your body will stop perspiring, and the moisture does not escape into the insulating material of the bag. Therefore no frost gets into the bag. Vapour barriers also give a 5-10 degree C extension of the temperature rating of their system. However for some, the feeling of sleeping in a plastic bag is not comfortable. I get around this by bringing 2 silk liners on an extended winter trip and sleep in the liner, then the VBL, then the sleeping bag.

Some sleeping bags have a water repellant coating on them which, if they are on a down bag helps keep moisture out. You can always pick up a bivy (gore-tex or other waterproof material or a waterproof over bag. However I find that sometimes in sub zero temps there is too much condensation and it freezes on the outside of your bag, and the inside of the over bag, unless you use a VBL.

Quality brands for down are: Marmot (my favourite, and they definitely stand by their product and warranty, 100% customer service rating IMO), Western mountaineering, Mountain hardware (though unsure now of quality since Columbia bought out I believe), TNF-The North Face (but only their high end low temp bags), MEC brand bags are good quality for the price (and fair temp rating,) I have owned or still own the above brands, and in some cases several. MEC down bags are actually really well made and have a rock solid guarantee (if unsatisfied take it back), they stand by their products and any product they sell for that matter. And they are ethically sourced (if one cares about that)

I also hear Sea to summit (Spark III is supposed to be fantastic)is good as well, though can not comment on them. I am sure others will and have chimed in on what they like and have used.

W.
 
Quote: "Beware that cheaper brands almost always have very optimistic temperature ratings." Very true. They might keep you alive at the rated temperature, but they won't keep you comfortable. If weight is a major consideration because everything has to be carried on your back, don't cut corners on cost, go with a proven brand.
 
Many thanks Badbuzz - one of the best posts I have seen in awhile. Great information and nice that you compared and contrasted instead of just saying you use the X from Y and it's obviously the best bag. Hats off mate.
 
Thanks Cam.

Another note that I would like to mention, is definitely go with a trusted sleeping bag manufacturer. Most have excellent customer service. Think "what would people use when climbing everest?" When cold camping and you should be good. If you are willing to potentially trust your life on gear, then that's what you get. More money? Well depends... if you have to buy gear again, it is probably cheaper in the long run to save for a bit and just get the higher end right off the bat. Usually this gear comes with the best warranties or customer service (not always..But...) This goes for most gear really.
 
I bought the Chinook Downmicro Mummy and it packs down to about the size of a beer can if you really squish it. That's why I bought it, to save weight and room in my sheep hunting pack. It is not warm enough for much more that August and September sheep hunting. My brother bought one step warmer, the Chinook Polar Micro. It is almost as small but a bit warmer. Both of us tend to wear our light wool shirts to bed if it gets too chilly though. The bag is excellent and Chinook makes a range of down bags from super light to very warm. I recommend the brand. Very fair pricing too. I figured if I have all my layering gear to stay warm I cam just wear it to bed if it gets colder. But if you aren't wearing layers to bed be sure to get a bag liner for a down bag, as the oils in your skin will eventually ruin the insulating value of the down.
 
I've had more than one girl tell me they've checked me for a pulse the first time she spent the night. I nearly hibernate with a slow heartbeat and I'm cold to the touch. When I'm awake cold doesn't bother me, but It takes some serious insulation to keep me warm when I sleep. If you are backpacking, weight matters. To get warm and light, that's gonna cost some cash. The very best I could find was a Marmot Helium bag with an Exped Downmat UL7. I'm over 6 feet so I need the room to be comfortable. With this combo and a silk liner I've never been cold for a second. Few places in Canada carry them though...I ordered from CampSavers down south. One of these years I'll be tenting it in November for a sheep hunt. When I decide it's time, I'll be getting a step up to the Marmot Lithium. At today's exchange rates that'll be close to a cool thousand bucks. You can get cheaper and you can get heavier. Neither is desirable...and worse, spending a bunch to get disappointed really sucks. If this is a one time hunt, you'll sell this stuff real easy.
 
Back
Top Bottom