First, the usual disclaimer:
Disclaimer: Modifying your pistol without proper knowledge and precautions can result in fatal injuries!
First, do a full strip of your revolver. There are lots of videos on Youtube etc that can show you how to do this. If you're uncomfortable doing so far, you might want to reconsider going any further.
First, deburr or dehorn the sharp edges on the triggerguard and upper frame with a 600grit diamond file. Check for burrs by running a Q-tip along the insides of the frame. Anywhere the cotton fibers get snagged, deburr it. Keep an eye on the hammer pivot pin holes. I had a couple burrs on mine that was showing up as rub marks on my hammer.
Moving onto the hammer strut. Remove the hammer spring from the captured strut. If you have a benchvise, just open the jaws wide enough for the strut but not wide enough for the spring. Slip a punch or small allen wrench through the upper hole in the strut to help in giving you some leverage. Compress the hammer spring by pushing the assembly into the vise and simply remove the punch/allen wrench from the captured end.
Use a fine file to remove the flashing along the edges of the strut then polish it to a nice mirror like finish.
Pay attention to the rounded end of the strut. This part rolls around in the back of the hammer. You'll want this part to be nicely polished.
Now for the gate detent. If your loading gate has a bit of slack opening it, you can carefully change the angle of the detent spring to be a little more acute and offer some more bearing surface. You still want to have a very small radius on the top part to help it "roll" over when the gate is opened.
Caution: Do NOT remove too much material from this detent spring or you will mess up the cylinder lock.
Before:
After:
Polish the ends of the detent spring to help smoothen out opening/closing the loading gate. You will not get is as smooth or easy opening as a Pietta/Uberti but it will be a little less gritty than factory.
Polish the little area on the loading gate that rides along the detent spring and the little stem that gets inserted into the frame.
Polish up the edges of the cylinder latch to remove the chatter/tool marks. You only need to do the outside edge as this is where the cylinder latch plunger and hammer plunger rides along.
Polish the hammer pivot pin hole using some fine 1000grit wet/dry emery sandpaper. You just want to knock down any burrs and rough tooling marks etc. You don't want to remove excess material or you will end up with a smooth but sloppy hammer.
Using a fine stone then buffing with some Fitz polish, carefully polish the sear surfaces on the hammer and trigger. You only want to remove any burrs and rough tool marks. You do NOT want to alter the angles etc of these parts unless you know what you're doing ie trigger job.
Polish the back and front edges of the pawl where they ride along the frame or pushed against by the pawl spring plunger. Still got some polishing to go. Damn MIM parts...
Polish the front facing part of the transfer bar where the base pin plunger makes contact.
Polish the stems of the hammer pivot pin and the trigger pivot pins.
I didn't find I needed to polish my cylinder base pin but if you want to, you can with some Fitz polish or 1000 or 2000grit sandpaper. Reblue if needed.
Begin reassembling your revolver. On the trigger, I installed a 0.1 4mm shim on the outer edge as I noticed some rub markings earlier. On the opposite side of the trigger, I installed a 0.3 shim. It's a bit tricky getting these shims in.
As you can tell, I've done some work on this revolver in the past with the wrong screwdriver. The screws are all chewed up.
A quick couple passes on the belt sander and she looks as good as new again.
Replace the factory hammer spring and trigger return springs with a Wolff 30/14 (part #33250) spring pack. This will bring your factory 3.5lb trigger down to approx 2lbs with an easier cocking hammer.
Clean up the screws and frame with some isopropyl alcohol. Apply some blue Loctite on the screws and then reassemble the revolver applying light amount of oil in the required parts.
Run function and safety checks to ensure it is working 100% and ensure that the timing was not altered.
Disclaimer: Modifying your pistol without proper knowledge and precautions can result in fatal injuries!
First, do a full strip of your revolver. There are lots of videos on Youtube etc that can show you how to do this. If you're uncomfortable doing so far, you might want to reconsider going any further.
First, deburr or dehorn the sharp edges on the triggerguard and upper frame with a 600grit diamond file. Check for burrs by running a Q-tip along the insides of the frame. Anywhere the cotton fibers get snagged, deburr it. Keep an eye on the hammer pivot pin holes. I had a couple burrs on mine that was showing up as rub marks on my hammer.
Moving onto the hammer strut. Remove the hammer spring from the captured strut. If you have a benchvise, just open the jaws wide enough for the strut but not wide enough for the spring. Slip a punch or small allen wrench through the upper hole in the strut to help in giving you some leverage. Compress the hammer spring by pushing the assembly into the vise and simply remove the punch/allen wrench from the captured end.
Use a fine file to remove the flashing along the edges of the strut then polish it to a nice mirror like finish.
Pay attention to the rounded end of the strut. This part rolls around in the back of the hammer. You'll want this part to be nicely polished.
Now for the gate detent. If your loading gate has a bit of slack opening it, you can carefully change the angle of the detent spring to be a little more acute and offer some more bearing surface. You still want to have a very small radius on the top part to help it "roll" over when the gate is opened.
Caution: Do NOT remove too much material from this detent spring or you will mess up the cylinder lock.
Before:
After:
Polish the ends of the detent spring to help smoothen out opening/closing the loading gate. You will not get is as smooth or easy opening as a Pietta/Uberti but it will be a little less gritty than factory.
Polish the little area on the loading gate that rides along the detent spring and the little stem that gets inserted into the frame.
Polish up the edges of the cylinder latch to remove the chatter/tool marks. You only need to do the outside edge as this is where the cylinder latch plunger and hammer plunger rides along.
Polish the hammer pivot pin hole using some fine 1000grit wet/dry emery sandpaper. You just want to knock down any burrs and rough tooling marks etc. You don't want to remove excess material or you will end up with a smooth but sloppy hammer.
Using a fine stone then buffing with some Fitz polish, carefully polish the sear surfaces on the hammer and trigger. You only want to remove any burrs and rough tool marks. You do NOT want to alter the angles etc of these parts unless you know what you're doing ie trigger job.
Polish the back and front edges of the pawl where they ride along the frame or pushed against by the pawl spring plunger. Still got some polishing to go. Damn MIM parts...
Polish the front facing part of the transfer bar where the base pin plunger makes contact.
Polish the stems of the hammer pivot pin and the trigger pivot pins.
I didn't find I needed to polish my cylinder base pin but if you want to, you can with some Fitz polish or 1000 or 2000grit sandpaper. Reblue if needed.
Begin reassembling your revolver. On the trigger, I installed a 0.1 4mm shim on the outer edge as I noticed some rub markings earlier. On the opposite side of the trigger, I installed a 0.3 shim. It's a bit tricky getting these shims in.
As you can tell, I've done some work on this revolver in the past with the wrong screwdriver. The screws are all chewed up.
A quick couple passes on the belt sander and she looks as good as new again.
Replace the factory hammer spring and trigger return springs with a Wolff 30/14 (part #33250) spring pack. This will bring your factory 3.5lb trigger down to approx 2lbs with an easier cocking hammer.
Clean up the screws and frame with some isopropyl alcohol. Apply some blue Loctite on the screws and then reassemble the revolver applying light amount of oil in the required parts.
Run function and safety checks to ensure it is working 100% and ensure that the timing was not altered.
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