Slide stop on Para not disengaging

dearslayer

dearslayer

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Had my Para Ordnance 16/40 at the range today to try out some reloads and was having trouble getting the slide release to drop. When racking the slide back the lock engages but if I pull back the slide to chamber a round the slide release won't drop all the way on its own. I had to push it down with my thumb while holding back the slide and only then would the slide move forward. The release doesn't drop enough and the slide catches on the stop by just a hair....enough that I have to manually push down on it every single time. I've taken the gun apart to clean and oil but it didn't fix the issues. Any ideas how to fix it
 

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Para's OEM MIM. parts are notoriously out of spec and or have micro burrs usually on them. A simple clean with some scotch cloth could help.

If .45Kings suggestion doesn't work, just replace the Slide Stop & Plunger/Spring assembly and you should be good to go.
 
ShrtRnd said:
Para's OEM MIM. parts are notoriously out of spec and or have micro burrs usually on them. A simple clean with some scotch cloth could help.

If .45Kings suggestion doesn't work, just replace the Slide Stop & Plunger/Spring assembly and you should be good to go.
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I'll definitely give the Scotch-Brite a try. Had this pistol for some time and it's never had a problem before but there's a first time for everything.
 
Might be a shadow, but the ball detent looks flattened. Slide release return spring is the ball detent spring which while a reasonably strong spring but because of design can't apply much force on slide stop: any above spec friction in that mechanism will mess up operation.

And there is the tab on the slide stop itself: excess material can be binding on rounds in the magazine which it should normally clear only to be engaged by follower. So if it's doing it with no magazine inserted gives a more likely place to first examine closer. Of course that excess material inside on the slide stop could be binding on internal surfaces in general...
 
New Camper said:
Might be a shadow, but the ball detent looks flattened. Slide release return spring is the ball detent spring which while a reasonably strong spring but because of design can't apply much force on slide stop: any above spec friction in that mechanism will mess up operation.

And there is the tab on the slide stop itself: excess material can be binding on rounds in the magazine which it should normally clear only to be engaged by follower. So if it's doing it with no magazine inserted gives a more likely place to first examine closer. Of course that excess material inside on the slide stop could be binding on internal surfaces in general...
Click to expand...

I'll take it apart to have a closer look shortly. It happens with or without a magazine inserted.
 
dearslayer said:
It certainly seems that way doesn't it. Then again a few of my close friends refer to me as Blackcloud for a reason. Is the slide stop and plunger/ spring assy generic to all 1911's or would I need a Para specific one?
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Generic. Any Wilson, Ed Brown, Fusion or the like will fit with some clean up of them at install.
 
From your previous shock buff thread, it appears you do use shock buffs.
Some 1911s won’t allow the slide to travel rearwards far enough to engage the slide stop at all. Kimbers in particular.
Having installed a new buff in your Para, the new buff is a bit too thick. The slide travels far enough rearward to engage after the last round is expended, but it’s just a wee bit too tight/thick for the slide stop to drop on its own when you slingshot your slide. Your slide should be allowed to travel rearward a bit more for the slide stop to drop. The buff prevents it doing so.
If you’re adamant about shock buffs, you can thin the new buff with sand paper, or wait until the buff thins out on its own by simply shooting your gun.
Either way, it’s your new shock buff that’s giving you this issue. Keep safe.
 
easy said:
From your previous shock buff thread, it appears you do use shock buffs.
Some 1911s won’t allow the slide to travel rearwards far enough to engage the slide stop at all. Kimbers in particular.
Having installed a new buff in your Para, the new buff is a bit too thick. The slide travels far enough rearward to engage after the last round is expended, but it’s just a wee bit too tight/thick for the slide stop to drop on its own when you slingshot your slide. Your slide should be allowed to travel rearward a bit more for the slide stop to drop. The buff prevents it doing so.
If you’re adamant about shock buffs, you can thin the new buff with sand paper, or wait until the buff thins out on its own by simply shooting your gun.
Either way, it’s your new shock buff that’s giving you this issue. Keep safe.
Click to expand...

Wow... It's Easy for the win. I'm not a shock buffer advocate per say because I'm not educated enough one way or the other for their use. I did replace the one in my Ruger just because it had one when I got it used. They came in a pack of 6 so when I cleaned the Para the other day before the range I figured I'd try one in it. That's exactly what the issue was. I removed it and it functions as normal now. Thanks for all the help folks especially Easy! I'm happy it was an EASY fix....

See what I did there!!!
 
When removing the slide stop I did notice the under side of the stop has a stamp that seems raised a little leaving a mark on the frame. Can't be seen with the stop installed but is this normal? I used some 1000 grit wet dry paper on the raised stamp to cut the sharp edge a little.
 

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dearslayer said:
Had my Para Ordnance 16/40 at the range today to try out some reloads and was having trouble getting the slide release to drop. When racking the slide back the lock engages but if I pull back the slide to chamber a round the slide release won't drop all the way on its own. I had to push it down with my thumb while holding back the slide and only then would the slide move forward. The release doesn't drop enough and the slide catches on the stop by just a hair....enough that I have to manually push down on it every single time. I've taken the gun apart to clean and oil but it didn't fix the issues. Any ideas how to fix it
Click to expand...

Remove the Shok-Buff*. (It didn't come with them, and it doesn't need them.)

* <https://shopwilsoncombat.com/Shok-Buff-Recoil-Buffers-1911-Package-of-6/productinfo/2B>
 
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