slow rust bluing solution

PaulT

PaulT

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Hi guys,

Did the bluing on one of my rifle (cold bluing). The result is ok but, I would like to try "rust bluing" for the next one and see the difference. Supposed to be better looking and lasting then cold/hot bluing so...gotta try it :D .

Anyone know where I could find and order this slow rust bluing solution in Canada:
Pinkington Classic American Rust Blue

Also, if any of you know a home made receipe that could be used instead would be cool and greatly appreciated . :)


Thanks


PaulT
 
It's not the chemicals that are the problem. It's the tanks with precise temperature controls and a place with no other ferrous metals you don't want a coating of rust on to do it.
 
sunray said:
It's not the chemicals that are the problem. It's the tanks with precise temperature controls and a place with no other ferrous metals you don't want a coating of rust on to do it.
Click to expand...

You're thinking of hot chemical bluing which is best left to professionals.

With slow rust bluing, you prepare the metal, degrease, apply the chemical cold with a cotton ball, let rust for a period of time, boil for 10-15 min in distilled water then card(remove loose material) with degreased fine steel-wool. Repeat the chemical/rust/boil/carding cycle as many times as required to cover the metal(usually 4-6 times) and you're done.

The rust cycle creates a a coating of fine red rust(ferrous oxide) on the metal. The boiling converts the red rust to black rust(ferric-ferrous oxide).

You end up with a matte finish that is as tough as nails.

Do a search for Pilkingtons on this forum. I'm pretty sure that someone recently gave a source.

Here's a picture of a Mauser I recently did.

RustBlued013.jpg
 
so the rust blueing leaves a matte finish, does that mean that a highly polished up action will go matte when done? what sort of finish should you have before rust blueing?
 
sharpsguy said:
so the rust blueing leaves a matte finish, does that mean that a highly polished up action will go matte when done? what sort of finish should you have before rust blueing?
Click to expand...

No, not really a matt finish IMO, unless that's what you started with in the first place. High polish = high polish after rust blue.

BTW - there are other methods of doing this other than hot water and/or humidity boxes. I have seen some good results from using "Express" rust blue solution (available in Canada from PJ's) and a heat gun - carding between solution applications. The finish appears "harder" than caustic salts bluing and superior to any cold blue methods.
 
gth said:
I bought some solution from a guy on the board about 2 or 3 years ago. I cant remember his name, but maybe he will see your post and pipe up.
Click to expand...

You may be thinking of Lucky Guy. If so, I also bought some product from him. Actually, I've bought three bottles from him and I really like how it works.

So far I've done six rifles and haven't had a problem(just a few nervous moments)

The is a ton of information on the net. Just Google.

so the rust blueing leaves a matte finish, does that mean that a highly polished up action will go matte when done? what sort of finish should you have before rust blueing?
Click to expand...

From what I've read and experienced, rust bluing will not give a very high gloss finish like you can get with caustic bluing.

On the first couple of rifles I did, I wet polished to 320 grit and called it good. The finish on the picture I posted above was done like that.

On the last couple, I polished to 320 then gave a final rub with a fine automotive Scotch-brite pad. This blended the finish to a slightly higher polish but the bluing wasn't much more glossy.

I'm going to try going to a 600 grit polish and see what happens.
 
Hematite

Basically, what you're doing is pushing red rust which is a lower ferrous oxide to a higher degree of oxydation. The advantage: there's nothing else left to form rust. :)
A natural form of this oxyde can be found sometimes and is called hematite. It is used in jewellery ( you know, the heavy grey-black shiny beads) and can be polished to a very high degree with jeweller's rouge.
I think you should try a sample on the muslin wheel with fine rouge. Could be interesting!
PP.
 
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