SLR tips, tricks and observations

m_falafel said:
I just finished building my slr. It has a 18.6” mra barrel with a midlenght gas tube. When I fire the rifle, half the time the bolt cycles but not enough to chamber the next round, and the other half the time the empty casing fails to eject completely. Seems like there’s not enough gas pressure... my gas block is a standard cheap one I bought on tna. Would an adjustable gas block give me more pressure if adjusted accordingly or should I look elsewhere to find my problem?
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You could try with a quality gas block. A bcm gas block isn't that much money. Is your gas port on the barrel drilled to the correct size? Did you assemble this yourself? If so are you sure you've aligned everything correctly? A midlength 18.6 if anything should be slightly overgassed. On a sidenote what buffer are you running?

Edit: have a look at your bcg to make sure the gas key hasn't come loose.
 
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m_falafel said:
I just finished building my slr. It has a 18.6” mra barrel with a midlenght gas tube. When I fire the rifle, half the time the bolt cycles but not enough to chamber the next round, and the other half the time the empty casing fails to eject completely. Seems like there’s not enough gas pressure... my gas block is a standard cheap one I bought on tna. Would an adjustable gas block give me more pressure if adjusted accordingly or should I look elsewhere to find my problem?
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I have the same MRA mid length gas port barrel on mine and I find it cycles a little harder than I'd like it to but it does still function 100%. It also has the MRA gas block and the MRA bcg.

Make sure the gas port hole in the gas block is properly aligned with the gas port hole on the barrel. It won't have to be off much to restrict the gas flow enough to cause malfunctions like you're experiencing.

If that's not the issue I'd start looking at the bcg. Also make sure you don't have too heavy of buffer and/or spring.

Also adjustable gas blocks are designed to decrease gas flow. If, for whatever reason, you don't have enough gas, they can't add extra than what's available.
 
r34skyline said:
You could try with a quality gas block. A bcm gas block isn't that much money. Is your gas port on the barrel drilled to the correct size? Did you assemble this yourself? If so are you sure you've aligned everything correctly? A midlength 18.6 if anything should be slightly overgassed. On a sidenote what buffer are you running?

Edit: have a look at your bcg to make sure the gas key hasn't come loose.
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Is the gas block installed incorrectly? Many inexperienced builders butt the gas block tight against the shoulder which covers the gas port. The space is for a delta ring end cap if a mil spec setup is used. Even if a free float hand guard is chosen the gap must be there.
 
A nice 5 round group from Saturday.

PMC X-Tac Match 77gr OTM at 100 yards. The little rip in the paper happened when I folded up the target to take with me.

GpNFVP4m.jpg
 
Took my SLR out for the first time today. Its a 20 inch 224 valkyrie with +2 gas system from Craddock Precision made from a Criterion 1/7. Athlon Eres ETR in a Vortex catilever precision mount with Geisele SSA-E trigger and Luth AR stock. Ran like a top without a single stoppage. Only complaint is how tight it is to seat the magazines. Really have to lean into it to get them in and requires a serious tug to remove them.

Was shooting factory Hornady 88g ELD-M's and was consistently about 1 moa for 5, 5 shot groups in a row. I am all set up to reload 88g ELD-M's, 90g SMK's and 80g VLD's so hope to get this dialed in. The setup started out on an AR and did not have a lot of luck shooting factory Federal loads including 90g FGMM and 75g American Eagle. Hornday loads show promise.

Is there an easy fix on the tough to insert mags or do I need to get out the dremel?



 
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b_w. said:
Took my SLR out for the first time today. Its a 20 inch 224 valkyrie with +2 gas system from Craddock Precision made from a Criterion 1/7. Athlon Eres ETR in a Vortex catilever precision mount with Geisele SSA-E trigger and Luth AR stock. Ran like a top without a single stoppage. Only complaint is how tight it is to seat the magazines. Really have to lean into it to get them in and requires a serious tug to remove them.

Was shooting factory Hornady 88g ELD-M's and was consistently about 1 moa for 5, 5 shot groups in a row. I am all set up to reload 88g ELD-M's, 90g SMK's and 80g VLD's so hope to get this dialed in. The setup started out on an AR and did not have a lot of luck shooting factory Federal loads including 90g FGMM and 75g American Eagle. Hornday loads show promise.

Is there an easy fix on the tough to insert mags or do I need to get out the dremel?
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What brand of mags?

Magpul
IMI
Metal GI mags
Troy
ASC

All work fine.
 
I had some difficulty with mags working in one of the SLRs. Once I changed the mag catch assembly they worked fine.

48218120_10156687020135516_2001404964085170176_n.jpg


The rifle is a 6.5 Grendel but I tried all these mags they all fit and click in. Some drop free, some don't. Drop free is noted as DF and not drop free is noted as NDF. All mags were empty when tested

5.56
IWI 5/15 NDF
IWI LAR NDF
MFT LAR DF
RRA ORANGE FOLLOWER DF
RRA GREY FOLLOWER DF
S&W 5/10 (From M&P15) DF

7.62x39
ELANDER DF
C-PRODUCTS NDF
ASC NDF

6.5 GRENDEL ASC BLUE FOLLOWER DF
 
Anybody who modified a receiver set to get cheap mags to work is on drugs because that is like chopping your wheel openings to get aftermarket rims and tires to fit.
 
Sqr said:
Anybody who modified a receiver set to get cheap mags to work is on drugs because that is like chopping your wheel openings to get aftermarket rims and tires to fit.
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you don't know much about vehicles than. flaring the wheel wells to get bigger rubber and rims is the thing to do for some vehicles and looks.

not regarding this receiver, all AR mags should seat and drop from, the start, they say it accepts AR mags , then it should, if not make their own proprietary mags.

I had a low 200 receiver, it was extremely tight. The makers of this jumped to the mass production way too quickly.
 
Sqr said:
Anybody who modified a receiver set to get cheap mags to work is on drugs because that is like chopping your wheel openings to get aftermarket rims and tires to fit.
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Earlier receivers had too large of a radius cut in the corners of the upper where the top of the magazine fits (or should I say, is supposed to fit), specifically the front two corners.

This would prevent metal mags from inserting due to them having sharper, more squared corners. Poly mags with a more rounded corner were no issue.

I believe they have since remedied this by cutting the corners in the upper to a smaller radius.



You can keep denying the truth and tell people they are on drugs or whatever else you can come up with all you like but that won't change the facts.

:jerkit: :jerkit:
 
Mine is #71 so that explains it. It's tight but fits plastic mags. All my 6.8 or *39 for the Valkyrie are metal and super tight. They fit in the magwell fine but it's the last bit to fully seat them that is tight as #####!
 
b_w. said:
Mine is #71 so that explains it. It's tight but fits plastic mags. All my 6.8 or *39 for the Valkyrie are metal and super tight. They fit in the magwell fine but it's the last bit to fully seat them that is tight as #####!
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Because the top corners of the metal mags are contacting the upper receiver due to improperly cut corners where the mag enters into the upper receiver.

The magwell corners in the lower are cut decently square. The upper is the problem.

But we better not say anything or we'll get accused of being on drugs :rolleyes:
 
So how do you guys pop out the trigger housing ? It's kinda stuck in mine... Yes I did removed the screw lol
 
DavenK said:
So how do you guys pop out the trigger housing ? It's kinda stuck in mine... Yes I did removed the screw lol
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When mine was assembled new the trigger housing would slide in and out relatively easily. It was snug but I could squeeze the trigger blade and push the whole assembly up and out by hand.

After I used it for a while and things got dirty inside I tried taking the housing assembly out and it was a no go.

Ended up prying it out by sticking a piece of wood in between the bottom of the trigger blade and the trigger guard and gently wiggling and prying until it became free enough to finish pulling it out by hand.

Go easy on it and it will come.
 
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