Slug barrel for deer?

If I had to hunt in a shotgun only area, and it was an area like southern Ontario, with big open fields, lots of range. (Areas, where you really need a rifle). You're danged right, I'd have a full length rifled barrel. I've seen what they can do, and that's the only way to go, unless you can shoot a black powder rifle for accuracy.
You must defeat the urge to swing and point like you are shooting ducks though, and remember to aim like a rifle.
 
LeePeterson said:
What would you guys recommend I get? A 12ga 870 barrel by Mossy 24"
1-38" twist or a Rem 20" with 1-35" twist.
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Opps I guesss that was a little wrong, the Mossberg 24" rifled barrel uses
1-36" twist. I went with it over the Rem, hope I did write, it was only $170 :D

My longest shot will probably be 100yrds.
 
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That barrel will actually give the best groups with full bore slugs... or the slower and heavier Sabots at 100 yards. Try 3" Brennekes they work well in the Mossberg barrels.
Is your Mossy barrel the ported one?
 
I'm pretty sure it's not ported, still waiting on it in the mail. I already bought some brenneke gold 600Gr 3" at 1500FPS and some Winchester Platinum tip 2 3/4" 400Gr at 1700FPS. Is there anything else I should get to try, I was thinking Federals Barnes load might work. They have a 3" 438Gr Barnes sabot at 1530 Fps; or a 2 3/4" 438Gr at 1450fps
 
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I think that those Remington Buck Hammers show promise... I have some here, just haven't had the time to test them yet!:(

One other thing LP... have a really good look at the rifling at the crown of your barrel... they are notorious for having burrs which can have dramatic effect on your accuracy. Most mass produced slug barrels can benefit from a good polishing. This is something that you can do yourself very easily.:cool:
 
What Buck Bammer load do you think I should try, the 2 3/4 or 3"? I can't find the velocity of the loads on Remmys site.

I'm getting a little low on cash now, new rifled barrel a couple boxes of slugs and a case of kent 3 1/2" steel shot.
 
You should be buying the winchester value paks on steel shot!
Save that Kent for the long range geese. I don't know what to say about the 2 3/4 or 3 inch buck hammers. I would guess the 3 inch would be better in your barrel.
 
According to Rem's web site, BuckHammers are only made in 2 3/4" and have 1032ft lbs of 100yd energy.

RePete.

From their web page.

Managed-Recoil™ Buckhammer™ Lead Slugs

You've probably never heard the words comfort and performance used to describe a high-performance shotgun slug. Until now. Using the same technology found in our other Managed-Recoil loads, the new Managed-Recoil BuckHammer lead slugs generate 40% less felt-recoil without sacrificing its devastating on-game performance.

Specially designed for fully rifled barrels and rifled choke tubes, these lower-recoil slugs still deliver the same outstanding accuracy as our standard BuckHammer loads with near 100% weight retention and controlled expansion to nearly 1-inch in diameter. For use at the range or in the field the Managed Recoil BuckHammer slug maintains an impressive 1032 ft-lbs of deer stopping energy at 100-yards.
 
You must be looking at something different than me Pete?
You are looking at the managed recoil buckhammers... girly loads.
They do make both 2 3/4 and 3 inch Buckhammers... actually all we stock in the store is the 3 inch... it is all we could get so far! Here is the Remington ammo link that shows the 3 inch Buckhammers.
http://www.remington.com/products/ammunition/shotshell/slugs/buckhammer.asp

Unlike traditional sabot slugs, the BuckHammer’s unique attached stabilizer allows for a full bore diameter lead slug that delivers devastating terminal performance with unsurpassed accuracy. Now available in 2 3/4-inch and 3-inch magnum loads in both 12- and 20-gauge the awe-inspiring BuckHammer is the hardest hitting, most accurate, highest energy family of lead slugs available
 
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Well my Mossberg slug barrel came today. I won't be able to test it out till the corn or beans are gone.

I got a question though; I've only had my PAL for 2 years and have never had to adjust Iron sites. I was hoping someone could help me out, with wind and elevation. I need to know how to make the bullet go where it should with adjusting the rear sight. Will razing to rear site lower bullet impact? How about to shoot more left or right?

Also does anyone know if the front dovetail sight can be removed, how? I wanted to replace it with a green Truglo sight.

P1040451.JPG

P1040454.JPG


Here is a picture of what I want to change my front sight too.
metal_front_dovetail.jpg


Thanks!!
 
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LeePeterson said:
I was hoping someone could help me out, with wind and elevation. I need to know how to make the bullet go where it should with adjusting the rear sight. Will razing to rear site lower bullet impact? How about to shoot more left or right?
Click to expand...

Rear sight adjust for elevation ..... Raising the sight raises the POI and vice versa.

Front sight adjust for windage ..... Move the sight left moves the POI right and vice versa.


sc

 
BIGREDD said:
Just use a brass drift to tap the sight out if you don't have a press tool.
Click to expand...

Are you sure it's not held in with a screw? It looks like a screw goes in the front but I can't really see it. :confused:

P1040474.JPG


I almost forgot, do you guys oil the inside of your barrel before using it?

I'm also going to drill and tap my recevier for a scope and use see threw rings. :D :)
 
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Nvm, I got it off there was a little allen key screw holding it in. I took it off and it says 335 on the bottom of the sight. I think that means it's height, but Truglo only makes .450, .500, .530. If I put in a 450 I don't know if the rear will have enough adjustment.
 
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