Slugs and Removable Chokes ?

[0faustus0]

So, I went to the range today and to see what my brand new 870 Wingmaster deer gun could do with slugs.

The gun has a 20 inch smoothbore barrel with rifle sights and removable chokes.

Today I tested the following ammo through a Full choke ... a Trulock Extended Full Choke.

1.) Sellier & Bellot Sport Slug: 1oz; 1345 FPS
2.) Federal Truball Law Enforecement , 1300 FPS
3.) Score Competition Slug: 1oz; 1300 FPS

The Sellier & Bellot could not keep up as usual and with respect to groupings .... the Federal Truball was ok, ... but the Score slug shot really well ....

However, I had a little issue:

After one or two shots the choke came loose .... and the result was that it stripped the wad from the Score slug on occasion .... :-(
And the Score slug is designed for the wad to stay with the slug in flight for stabilization ....

My question now is ... has somebody a good tip and how to keep that choke in place when shooting slugs?
I am a bit tired of hand tightening the extended choke after each shot .....

(So far I just screwed that choke in with some Ballistol and hand tightened it. Thats it.)

Link to image


Here what the Score slug looks like:

https://www.canadiangunnutz.com/for...Comparison?p=18450733&viewfull=1#post18450733


p.s.: Please folks .... don't tell me to use a different choke ..... there is a reason why I am shooting those slugs through a Full choke ...
(Actually the Trulock Extended Full Choke is more like a Remington Modified choke .... .700 constriction).

 

[MiG25]

I've had terrible luck with the Challenger Magnum wad seperating.

I suspect there is a reason the Original Brenneke has the wad screwed to the slug.

 

[Butcherbill]

I have always put a light coat of never seize on my choke threads, it’s a bit tackier than oil. I’ve never had a choke loosen and I install them finger tight. Shoot mainly Challenger 2 3/4” magnum and Sterling & Cross Black Goose slugs, mainly out of mod and full chokes. Rem, Winchoke and Truchoke.

 

[0faustus0]

I've had terrible luck with the Challenger Magnum wad seperating.

I suspect there is a reason the Original Brenneke has the wad screwed to the slug.

Yeahhhh .... there is a reason ... !!!

Well, I have a backup plan ... to use a Foster slug that does not need an attached wad. (I need to test a couple more brands out of that gun.)

I love the Brennekes ... but they are just too hard to find in Canada .... and too expensive for larger volume shooting .... at least for my taste.

 

[0faustus0]

Has anybody used Blue Loctite on removable chokes??

I am not an engineer ... nor am I a mechanic .... so I have no idea what bad could come out of this .... ?


This will be a dedicated deer gun .... so I will not be changing chokes much.

Once that choke is in place .... it will probably stay there for a quite a while .... probably years.

 

[brybenn]

Chokes should never be locktighted in however if you plan was to keep it there I can't see why it wouldn't work. I soak my threads with g96 and hand tighten the chokes for extended chokes. Snug tight with flush chokes using the choke key. Fouling will eventually get in and thicken up to hold the choke tight but it will still be removable

Have you compared the extended full to other constrictions? I'm going to be loading a bunch of home cast slugs to try in my 1301 comp. Optima HP chokes are said to not use slugs tighter than modified so I'm going to have to settle down and play some day

 

[BattleRife]

If it's coming loose, my first thought is the choke isn't seating fully. I would clean and lubricate all the threads, then seat it using a wrench with a moderate amount of torque. I would probably back it out a half turn and back in a couple of times to make sure it fully bottomed out.

 

[Raton57]

Maybe don't lubricate and see if it holds.

 

[struff55]

for the win don't lubricator

 

[struff55]

clean and degrease the threads on the choke and clean and degrease the threads in the bbl tighten with a wrench do not over tighten and it will not come loose

 

[UR2X3M4ME]

I'm flabbergasted by the choice of choke.

My understanding is unlike shots, slugs do not benefit from choke constriction. Tough on the barrel (over pressure), tough on the threads, and tough on your shoulder. Further, the pictures from your other thread shows slug rifling (or fins) destroyed by too much constriction. This may be the reason your choke is being hammered loose.

If I'm missing something, please tell me because I would really like to know.

Out of curiosity, did you compare results obtained with cylinder an full chokes? That would be interesting.

 

[Big Bad]

I'm flabbergasted by the choice of choke.

My understanding is unlike shots, slugs do not benefit from choke constriction. Tough on the barrel (over pressure), tough on the threads, and tough on your shoulder. Further, the pictures from your other thread shows slug rifling (or fins) destroyed by too much constriction. This may be the reason your choke is being hammered loose.

If I'm missing something, please tell me because I would really like to know.

Out of curiosity, did you compare results obtained with cylinder an full chokes? That would be interesting.

In ancient times (the 20th century), boxes of Foster slugs stated they were designed to be used with full choke guns, I safely assume because nearly every gun out there was choked 'full.' Seems like the makers of the things must provide specific directions, or at least suggestions, somewhere?

 

[0faustus0]

Thanks everyone for sharing the tips and insights. Choke, barrel and choke threads were cleaned by me before testing those slugs.


1.) Ok, I got myself some anti-seize and I will try that with a choke wrench. Thanks Butcherbill.
2.) If that does not work .... I will try the dry method without oil and with a choke wrench.
3.) And if all of this does not work .... then it is time for blue loktite ...

 

[Butcherbill]

Thanks everyone for sharing the tips and insights. Choke, barrel and choke threads were cleaned by me before testing those slugs.


1.) Ok, I got myself some anti-seize and I will try that with a choke wrench. Thanks Butcherbill.
2.) If that does not work .... I will try the dry method without oil and with a choke wrench.
3.) And if all of this does not work .... then it is time for blue loktite ...

If for some reason you have to use loctite on a screw in choke, don’t put it on and screw it in while it’s wet. It will spread itself while you thread it in and get everywhere, put a dab on and let it dry. Then screw it in, you see this on a lot of fasteners. Magpul screws are usually like this, once it dried it stays in place and still locks the thread in place.

 

[Butcherbill]

I'm flabbergasted by the choice of choke.

My understanding is unlike shots, slugs do not benefit from choke constriction. Tough on the barrel (over pressure), tough on the threads, and tough on your shoulder. Further, the pictures from your other thread shows slug rifling (or fins) destroyed by too much constriction. This may be the reason your choke is being hammered loose.

If I'm missing something, please tell me because I would really like to know.

Out of curiosity, did you compare results obtained with cylinder an full chokes? That would be interesting.

From my experience of testing slug while patterning bird and buckshot, slugs definitely can benefit from being shot through a choke. Depending on the slug it can tighten up accuracy and point of impact a lot. You only know if you test this out in real life, it’s safe to shoot foster slugs through ala modern shotgun with a quality brand of choke. I wouldn’t do it on a cheap pos Turkish gun but any Rem, Win, Carlson choke tube I’ve done it through was not a problem. From cyl to full.

 

[Suther]

I have always put a light coat of never seize on my choke threads, it’s a bit tackier than oil. I’ve never had a choke loosen and I install them finger tight. Shoot mainly Challenger 2 3/4” magnum and Sterling & Cross Black Goose slugs, mainly out of mod and full chokes. Rem, Winchoke and Truchoke.

I'll 2nd this recommendation. I use a little stick of it, looks like the glue sticks the kiddos use in school, but grey. Bought it at Lordco, could have gotten cheaper anti-seize but this stuff makes no mess, can't leak everywhere on me if it gets tipped over, and is relatively compact.

 

[Butcherbill]

I'll 2nd this recommendation. I use a little stick of it, looks like the glue sticks the kiddos use in school, but grey. Bought it at Lordco, could have gotten cheaper anti-seize but this stuff makes no mess, can't leak everywhere on me if it gets tipped over, and is relatively compact.

My local Lordco manager likes to call Anti-Seize and Molly grease the herpes of the automotive world, once it gets on everything you can’t ever get rid of it lol.

 

[blakeyboy]

Just because I’m into this buckshot slug set up now myself saw YouTube with some Buffalo shotgun guy who had his favourite shotgun (beretta 391 waterfowl I think) didn’t pattern slugs that well with any choke (overbore barrel by .005) but he put the Carlson rifles choke in it and shot 3/4 moa 5 shot group at 50 yards, just one big hole, I think just regularly rem slug master 2 3/4” foster slugs. Eye opening accuracy. Going to play a bunch with a new 940 turkey pro 18.5” and see how it likes buck and challenger slugs and variety of chokes. Also have to see if the beretta 301 28” full will group those challengers, it loves rem buckshot at at 40 yards 85-89% into 12”

 

[Sniffer]

Has anybody used Blue Loctite on removable chokes??

I am not an engineer ... nor am I a mechanic .... so I have no idea what bad could come out of this .... ?


This will be a dedicated deer gun .... so I will not be changing chokes much.

Once that choke is in place .... it will probably stay there for a quite a while .... probably years.

I think I would try the never seize first, as mentioned already it is thick & kinda tacky and that should be sufficient.

I dont even do that (simply snug the choke down well with a choke tool) and the chokes have never moved.

If I had to go the Loctitie route it would be purple (milder than blue).

 

[stubblejumper]

Maybe don't lubricate and see if it holds.

With dry threads , the combustion gases may eventually lock the choke in place so that you can't ever remove it. Anti seize works so well on choke threads, because it seals the threads from combustion gases. For that reason, even the weakest strength loctite, may be better than dry threads.