Small games shotgun recommendation

Any reliable pump action 20 gauge that fits you well and points naturally. Extra bonus is replaceable chokes and 3 inch chamber.

Since the OP mention preference for wood over plastic, I would recommend either an 870 Wingmaster or BPS in 20ga, 26" bbls and screw tubes. If buying used, a fixed IC choke would serve you well. 12ga guns tend to be a bit heavy.

Either of these shotguns would cover a lot of ground for upland hunting and would nice enough to be a keeper for life.
 
For a pump to use in the uplands, I would go with an Ithaca Model 37.I have one in 28 gauge and it is great for upland use.In the past I have had two 28 gauge Model 870 Wingmaster and one 28 gauge Remington Express .All were nice guns,but the Ithaca Model 37 ,I found to be just a cut above the Remingtons.:)
 
If you are looking for a 1 shotgun to do it all, it's pretty hard to beat a 12ga pump with a 3.5" chamber and choke tubes.

From rabbits to ducks/geese to turkey or even deer, you will be set.

So, that leaves brand...

My back up waterfowl shotgun is a Benelli Nova, I like it. Tough as heck with the features noted above.

A Rem870 would fit the bill, as would a Winchester SXP... Visit a store & shoulder each to see what you like.

Cheers
Jay
 
OP should define what his "small game" requirements include. If only grouse and rabbits are on the list, a 20ga would be perfect, but if ducks and turkeys are included, a 12 would be better.
 
OP should define what his "small game" requirements include. If only grouse and rabbits are on the list, a 20ga would be perfect, but if ducks and turkeys are included, a 12 would be better.

Sorry I thought I specified in original post, but you're right I didn't. Ducks and turkey are definitely on my list. Based on people's suggestions I'm looking at Rem 870 wingmaster, Win SXP or Moss 500 - 12 ga with interchangeable choke.


I really appreciate everyone's input. Firearms/hunting is totally new to me. It's interesting to read what everyone has to say
 
I hunt a Browning Auto 5 Magnum with the screw in chokes (Japanese built one).

Having said this I also have an older 870 3" Express with rem chokes and 4 barrels. Never had a problem with it.

As most have indicated - 3"/removable chokes/12G. This gives you the ability to shoot steel shot and 2 3/4 as well as 3" and tailor the gun to your hunt.

What the 870 line offers that most do not is the bolt on factory and aftermarket accessories at relatively cheap prices.

Easy to swap stocks, tons of after market accessories, barrels from 14" on up, tacticool bits, mag extensions, followers etc etc.

If you have a bit of extra cash then look at a Wingmaster, Marine Mag, or 870 Police

There are two guns I will always have in the vault: an 870 and a Ruger 10/22

Just my 2 cents
 
The problem with 870 Express' of a certain vintage isnt jsut the finish, its the poor quality production. VERY rough edges and unpolished components both inside and out were leading to very common cycling issues. I think that its been rectified now, but there was a period of time from maybe 2005-2015 when problems were very common.

Agreed the newer ones I’ve checked out were all nicely made, the ones I own have been great. Zero malfunctions and no rusting.
 
Rem870 20ga Wingmaster

I've owned and used 870s for over 30yrs and like them but a recent purchase of a BPS has opened my eyes to another very good pump gun option. I'm thinking I'd take the BPS over the 870 now, esp if it was a new gun purchase. The recent new Remington products I've seen did not impress and the BPS comes with the safety where it should be on a shotgun. On the tang.
 
I purchased an 870 express and sent it to S&J hardware for a cerakote and internals upgrade which added on some dollars but now I'm not concerned about rusting or other issues with use.
 
OP should define what his "small game" requirements include. If only grouse and rabbits are on the list, a 20ga would be perfect, but if ducks and turkeys are included, a 12 would be better.

Just about all Ithaca M37s are a full pound lighter than its 870 equal in gauge/barrel length. Although some of the Kings Ferry Ithacas had quality issues that seem to have disappeared at the Sandusky plant. I wish I could say the 870 Express quality has improved just as swiftly. The current Ithaca Waterfowler can meet all his needs if he doesn't mind a heavier 12 gauge. I don't know in what exact year the Wingmaster (870) quality took a nose dive. I have zero experience with the BPS of any kind.
 
The type of game you hunt determines your choice of ammunition and choke more than your choice of gun, but each has their advantages and disadvantages.

Pumps and semi-autos are actually quite similar in their function and use, in that the feeding mechanisms and magazines are similar, and the trigger is pressed to fire the gun, then after the action cycles, must reset by allowing it to move forward slightly, before the subsequent shot can be fired. The use of a pump action requires a longer learning curve than the semi-auto, since its easier to produce shooter induced failures to cycle the gun. All you need for reliable cycling in a semi-auto is to be solidly behind the gun when it fires. The forend of the semi-auto it rigid so you might find it produces a more solid shooting platform that the "wobbly" forend of a pump. Given guns or equal quality, the pump will be less expensive than the semi-auto, both are less expensive than double guns or similar quality.

Doubles, that is O/Us or SXS guns, are viable options as well and should not be discounted if you can afford a good one. The prices range from the bargain basement level to the sky is the limit. A quality SXS double gun is as much a work of art as it is a practical hunting piece. There are those who prefer O/Us and those who prefer SXs, but something to consider is that the O/U must open to the limit of it's hinge to provide access to the lower barrel whereas the SXS need only open enough for the ejectors or extractors to function. You get to choose between ejectors and extractors in quality guns. You get to choose the grade of wood. You get to have the gun measured to you. Most of my shooting life has been directed towards rifles and handguns, but I do lust for a high quality SXS 20 ga.

Considering a good used gun is a way to step up in quality without paying an exorbitant price. This can be a stressful situation for the novice who doesn't want to be cheated, but doesn't think he knows enough to make a good choice. If that's you, have an experienced hand look the gun over; the seller should agree to a 3 day non-shooting inspection if the gun is bought on line. First look the gun over and make a determination of whether it has been cared for or abused. The outside of the gun is an indication of the condition of its insides. Beware of home gunsmithing "improvements". Beware of muzzle damage, barrel bulges, or other obvious damage. Be less concerned with handling marks and wear. Hinge action guns, singles or doubles, should lock up tight. The forends should not be inclined to pull free without effort, and the better ones have a recessed mechanical lock in the underside of the forend.

The choice between 12 ga and 20 will get different responses from different people, but my take is as follows. For the purposes you've outlined, I would look at a 20 ga. The guns are physically smaller and lighter than their 12 ga counterparts, so are less fatiguing to carry. While this will result in greater recoil than from a heavier gun, with the type of loads typically used for small game hunting, recoil is not a concern. If a 12 ga and a 20 ga load had the same shot weight and the guns had the same degree of choke, the 20 ga pattern would be tighter since the 20 ga barrel is smaller in diameter relative to the 12 ga.
 
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My 20 gauge pump gun received so much use it eventually broke it's shell stop. This 1971 made gun had lots of duck hunting use before with its previous owner, then I placed it into frequent rabbit and occasional grouse hunting use. And the 28 gauge Ithaca with its willowy 28 inch barrel I desire to use it much more. I just don't wish to wound a lot of game in the interim.
 
Boomer that is some excellent advice, i do have a Moss 500 an 870 and a few others similar shotguns but by no means they are quality shotguns.
I,m also of the opinion of buying a decent used SXS or an O/U, i'm a sucker for the old sidelocks SXS,s.
 
The type of game you hunt determines your choice of ammunition and choke more than your choice of gun, but each has their advantages and disadvantages.

Pumps and semi-autos are actually quite similar in their function and use, in that the feeding mechanisms and magazines are similar, and the trigger is pressed to fire the gun, then after the action cycles, must reset by allowing it to move forward slightly, before the subsequent shot can be fired. The use of a pump action requires a longer learning curve than the semi-auto, since its easier to produce shooter induced failures to cycle the gun. All you need for reliable cycling in a semi-auto is to be solidly behind the gun when it fires. The forend of the semi-auto it rigid so you might find it produces a more solid shooting platform that the "wobbly" forend of a pump. Given guns or equal quality, the pump will be less expensive than the semi-auto, both are less expensive than double guns or similar quality.

Doubles, that is O/Us or SXS guns, are viable options as well and should not be discounted if you can afford a good one. The prices range from the bargain basement level to the sky is the limit. A quality SXS double gun is as much a work of art as it is a practical hunting piece. There are those who prefer O/Us and those who prefer SXs, but something to consider is that the O/U must open to the limit of it's hinge to provide access to the lower barrel whereas the SXS need only open enough for the ejectors or extractors to function. You get to choose between ejectors and extractors in quality guns. You get to choose the grade of wood. You get to have the gun measured to you. Most of my shooting life has been directed towards rifles and handguns, but I do lust for a high quality SXS 20 ga.

Considering a good used gun is a way to step up in quality without paying an exorbitant price. This can be a stressful situation for the novice who doesn't want to be cheated, but doesn't think he knows enough to make a good choice. If that's you, have an experienced hand look the gun over; the seller should agree to a 3 day non-shooting inspection if the gun is bought on line. First look the gun over and make a determination of whether it has been cared for or abused. The outside of the gun is an indication of the condition of its insides. Beware of home gunsmithing "improvements". Beware of muzzle damage, barrel bulges, or other obvious damage. Be less concerned with handling marks and wear. Hinge action guns, singles or doubles, should lock up tight. The forends should not be inclined to pull free without effort, and the better ones have a recessed mechanical lock in the underside of the forend.

The choice between 12 ga and 20 will get different responses from different people, but my take is as follows. For the purposes you've outlined, I would look at a 20 ga. The guns are physically smaller and lighter than their 12 ga counterparts, so are less fatiguing to carry. While this will result in greater recoil than from a heavier gun, with the type of loads typically used for small game hunting, recoil is not a concern. If a 12 ga and a 20 ga load had the same shot weight and the guns had the same degree of choke, the 20 ga pattern would be tighter since the 20 ga barrel is smaller in diameter relative to the 12 ga.

I was under the impression that the only advantage a semi auto offered was the ability to fire a quick additional shot in the event you missed your target. What makes the forend of a semi more rigid than a pump? I've never fired a semi so you've now got me wondering what the difference in feel is like.

In your experience, is there a particular action type that is more prone to failing down the road or I guess, growing less reliable with time? I've heard of certain models of pump actions failing to properly eject spent shells. Are other action types more prone to other errors?

And like you said, because this will be my first purchase, I fully intend on taking whichever firearm I land on to a shop or gunsmith to have it assessed. Not only for my own peace of mind, but to get a sense of how to do a proper, thorough inspection for future purchases.

Thanks for the response my friend.
 
I was under the impression that the only advantage a semi auto offered was the ability to fire a quick additional shot in the event you missed your target. What makes the forend of a semi more rigid than a pump? I've never fired a semi so you've now got me wondering what the difference in feel is like.

In your experience, is there a particular action type that is more prone to failing down the road or I guess, growing less reliable with time? I've heard of certain models of pump actions failing to properly eject spent shells. Are other action types more prone to other errors?

And like you said, because this will be my first purchase, I fully intend on taking whichever firearm I land on to a shop or gunsmith to have it assessed. Not only for my own peace of mind, but to get a sense of how to do a proper, thorough inspection for future purchases.

Thanks for the response my friend.

A practiced hand can fire a pump shotgun as quickly as a semi-auto when firing at multiple targets; by the time the subsequent target can be engaged, both guns have cycled. For quite some time now machinery has been able to perform multiple tasks better than a human being, and so it is with cycling the action of a firearm. Thus the semi-auto might be more reliable than the pump gun, but it would be difficult to prove statistically. What we do know is when a problem occurs with either type, it is most frequently the result of operator error. That said, there are those of us who adhere to the notion that if you want something done right you should do it yourself.

The forend of a semi-auto shotgun is fixed to the receiver and is therefore rigid. The pump's forend is fastened to a tube that goes over the magazine tube and in turn is attached to the action rails which engage the bolt. To varying degrees, this allows the forend of the pump to twist from side to side. A pump shotgun that has a single action bar rather than two will probably feel less rigid.

Guns that are well maintained and not abused will last many years; it used to be said a lifetime, but I doubt that is true any longer with some of the low cost guns being manufactured today. I doubt that when guns of equal quality are compared that one type lasts any longer than another when both are treated well, or for that matter when both are treated equally poorly. That said quality guns can be kept running with a proper amount of TLC.

But if after removing the barrel of your 870 Remington, you jam it into the receiver, without taking care to line up the ejector with the recess in the barrel, and gently seating it in place, the ejector will snap off at the front rivet, and will have to be replaced by a gunsmith. The Mossberg ejector is retained by a screw, so can be replaced by anyone with a screwdriver. The ejector recess in the Mossberg barrel is not as deep as the Remington's, so the problem doesn't occur very often. Should you fire a tube magazine shotgun without first ensuring the barrel retaining nut is tight, the barrel could be damaged, and might even be projected off the gun. Naturally the the magazine tube threads and the retaining nut threads will be stripped away should this happen. Screw in chokes also need to be checked prior to use to ensure they are tight. If you hear a high pitched whistle after the shot, that's the sound of your choke heading downrange. Its a pretty easy habit to get into to check your barrel retaining nut and your choke tubes each time you pick up your gun, just as checking the chamber becomes muscle memory. If you get a bit of snow in the muzzle of your gun and fire it, the barrel will probably split. If you get most of the snow out and decide to shoot out the rest of it, expect to bulge the barrel. Shotgun slugs are designed to be shot through a full choke gun without damaging the gun. Well sort of. If you fire 50 slugs through a full choke gun, its unlikely to pattern as well as it did prior to the experiment.

If you purchase your gun new, there is no reason to have it assessed by a gunsmith, but it might be prudent with a used gun. Whether or not the gunsmith is willing to teach you how to strip your shotgun for normal maintenance might be an issue since, A) he might not have the time to deal with your gun while you wait, and B) the fellow might get the idea that if you can do this stuff yourself, you won't need to pay him for doing it. It doesn't hurt to ask though. For the more popular guns, Youtube might provide the information you're looking for, although the knowledge of some of the posters leaves something to be desired.
 
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