It was a super-duper sale at that particular Canadian Tire and I got it for 16$. So is not a such big loss. Also I opted for a cast iron pot planing i the futire to make it a bottom pour smelter. The thickness of the cast iron pot will help with the welding and such. That was the whole idea.
Smelting lead setup
- Thread starter Moose_Master
- Start date
I mark with the stamps so I can keep my different alloys separate. I lucked out on a 5 gallon pail of high tin solder that I had to melt down (grrrr on the flux core: nasty stuff) and to keep from making some 75% tin boolits, or heaven forbid give away a bunch of lead to make fishing sinkers out of.
When I have some lead left over in the pot that is 50-50 (half and half pure lead and wheelweights), I don`t have to worry in a few months what the alloy is in that random ingot in the pail.
I have a few different types of lead: pure, high tin content, wheelweight, foundry type, and linotype. The foundry type and linotype are not in ingots, though.
The stamps make it very easy to identify which ingot is which, at a glance, even when the ingots are mixed into a different ammo can. (my preferred storage container: they stack very well in the corner of the shed)
A few minutes extra with the stamps cuts down on confusion in the years to come. Or when buddies want a couple of pounds of lead for their own experiments: By mistake I gave a neighbour pure lead to use in his .308. It wasn`t until after he cast a few hundred boolits and loaded another hundred that we realized pure lead doesn`t like 2000 fps in his gun. Since then I have started marking my lead. (although buddy hasn`t asked for any more lead since...)
When I have some lead left over in the pot that is 50-50 (half and half pure lead and wheelweights), I don`t have to worry in a few months what the alloy is in that random ingot in the pail.
I have a few different types of lead: pure, high tin content, wheelweight, foundry type, and linotype. The foundry type and linotype are not in ingots, though.
The stamps make it very easy to identify which ingot is which, at a glance, even when the ingots are mixed into a different ammo can. (my preferred storage container: they stack very well in the corner of the shed)
A few minutes extra with the stamps cuts down on confusion in the years to come. Or when buddies want a couple of pounds of lead for their own experiments: By mistake I gave a neighbour pure lead to use in his .308. It wasn`t until after he cast a few hundred boolits and loaded another hundred that we realized pure lead doesn`t like 2000 fps in his gun. Since then I have started marking my lead. (although buddy hasn`t asked for any more lead since...)
In your situation it makes sense to mark alloys. Not in my situation tho. First because I never alloy in the smelter. Is always in the casting pot. Also once I alloy something I do not stop until the pot is empty. If I know I only have few hours for playing I rather do something else than stop the game with the melter half full.
And yes, I mark the bullets containers with appropriate markings.
I never casted gas check bullets. So I'm not worried about those type of alloy yet.
And yes, I mark the bullets containers with appropriate markings.
I never casted gas check bullets. So I'm not worried about those type of alloy yet.
Big JD-From the hills
CGN Ultra frequent flyer
- Location
- Saskatchewan.
Just a tip with the stick on's. the ones that are coated grey are similar alloy to the clip on ww. The non coated natural looking stick on's are most likely strait lead. just take a pair of snips and you can tell right away which Is the softer alloy.
I bought today for very very cheap lead ingots from a guy. I said I'll buy for the price he asked for. What a mess. The dirtiest lead I've ever seen. He never heard of fluxing and such, so he just took the WW and melt them on huge ingots, skimmed the clips and that was all.
For 50$ 300lbs was worth the hassle. I re-smelt everything, flux countless times and cast some beautiful looking ingots. I was a bit worried about Zn contamination but I didn't see any cheese like clusters so I think is ok.
Anyway I won't use this batch for casting bullets. I'll make shot with.
I'll never buy again lead ingots from anyone I'm not 100% he's a pro.
For 50$ 300lbs was worth the hassle. I re-smelt everything, flux countless times and cast some beautiful looking ingots. I was a bit worried about Zn contamination but I didn't see any cheese like clusters so I think is ok.
Anyway I won't use this batch for casting bullets. I'll make shot with.
I'll never buy again lead ingots from anyone I'm not 100% he's a pro.
