Smith and Wesson revolvers

Ripstop

Ripstop

CGN frequent flyer
Rating - 100%
47   0   0
Location
Golden Triangle SW Ontario
I am interested in buying another handgun, but a revolver this time. Everything that I read about the earlier S&W revolvers say that using .357 mag all the time is not good for the gun. Practice with .38 special and save the .357 for special occasions. Is there a particular model that will fire .357 continuously without eating the gun? I am starting to lean into buying a Ruger Redhawk because of this. BTW I want to buy a DA. I would also eventually like to buy a .357 mag. AND a 44. mag. Any model numbers for these two that are durable?

Any information or opinions would be greatly appreciated. I have a craving to buy a revolver real soon.

Thanks in advance.
 
There are some carry models with smaller flame are build for personal defence and protection, which means you only use them to defence and not for fire three hundred round full load every week for target. But you can also have model 586 and 686 will eat full load 357 mag all day without a single problem. For more informations, you can visit Smith and Wesson forums.
Trigun
 
What Trigun says is true.

To add, The Ruger GP100 is stonger than the 686, it is also heavier. The trigger isn't as good as a 686 and is less accurate. I'm not against the Ruger but I own 6 L-frames.

If you're in my neck of the trees, you're welcome to try mine out.

RePete.
 
You are reffering to the S&W K-Frames handguns like the S&W models 13, 19 or 66. These guns been lighter and with smaller grips were more convenient for carry by police officers and were first designed like this for this purpose. While these guns are superbly made they are first designed to practice with .38 Special ammo and to use .357 Magnum ammo for duty.
Buy a S&W N-frame like a model 27 or 28, these guns are frequently for sale on this web. I consider that Smith & Wesson have the best trigger action of them all and is best for target shooting. These guns will endure a steady diet of .357 Magnum without any problem.

Ripstop said:
I am interested in buying another handgun, but a revolver this time. Everything that I read about the earlier S&W revolvers say that using .357 mag all the time is not good for the gun. Practice with .38 special and save the .357 for special occasions. Is there a particular model that will fire .357 continuously without eating the gun? I am starting to lean into buying a Ruger Redhawk because of this. BTW I want to buy a DA. I would also eventually like to buy a .357 mag. AND a 44. mag. Any model numbers for these two that are durable?

Any information or opinions would be greatly appreciated. I have a craving to buy a revolver real soon.

Thanks in advance.
Click to expand...
 
+3 on S&W.
I currently own a 5", 7 shot 686, a 5" 629 in 44Mag, and just got a 645 in
45ACP from the S&W Performance centre (sweet :D )
I have had a GP100 X 2..now gone due to there being no comparison with the
686's, and have a solitary 6" blued Colt Python... just because;)

I own and love my semi's, but there will always be a place for multiple
wheelguns in my collection!
 
Mimic what the others have said with some more info. I own all of the popular .357/.44 mag revolvers and here is my 2 cents worth.

1. Ruger GP100 .357 and Redhawk .44 mag. Built extremely strong and will take a steady diet of any ammo withing industry standards of course. Any revolver will take a beating using full bore loads all the time. As far as I can remember the rugers are designed to take the cup limit and then another 50% on top of that for good measure.
I once witnessed a redhawk that a friend somehow double charged with Herco powder and was way over the cup limit. We were firing as normal at the range when a huge bang was heard and my friend jumping around the line in pain. The revolver had left his hand and hit him in the top of the head, just nicked him and blood was everywhere and he couldn't use his hand. Took him to the hospital for 15 stiches and his wrist was just sprained. We lived in Nevada and we sent the redhawk back to Ruger for a check up and it came back with no problems found, it survived like nothing happened.
Worst trigger of the three to work on and smooth, needs detailed work on the inerds to get a nice smooth action. Not bad but not as good as Colt of S&W.

2. Colt I have a Trooper and a Python. The trooper is a general duty type revolver with a smooth action and a good trigger, great little .357. The Python is what all other revolvers are compaired to, glass smooth action and exceptional trigger and top notch accuracy, nothing has to be done to the revolver. You pay alot more money for a Colt than really needs too.

3. S&W I have a model 28, 586 in .357 and 29 and 629 in .44 mag. These can take full house all day long but will wear eventually. Nothing has to be done to these revolvers as they come out of the box, smooth action and great trigger. Great accuracy from all 4 of them and once you find a load that works the best for each you are in the money. Very easy to take apart and repair, easy parts to find and the S&W forum is outstanding for info.

My personal ranking:

S&W 586 in .357 and 629 in .44 mag- great trigger/smooth action/great accuracy, average used price of about 400-550.00.

Ruger GP-100 in .357 and Redhawk in .44 mag Built extremely stong and heavier, with a bit of work it can be made to almost equal a S&W, used about the same as S&W.

Colt Trooper and then Python in .357 Trooper is a great smooth revolver with great trigger. Python is the best but at 750 and up for a used one it is not worth it.
 
Thank you all for the information.

So then, I should keep an eye out for models 27N, 28N, 29N, 586, 629 and 686 dependant on the caliber that I would like to buy?

I guess that the later models (586-686) would be a bit preferable to the earlier (27-29) models but nothing bad about them either?

Thank you once again.
 
Either the 586/686 or 27/28 would be fine for full-time .357 shooting. Be aware however that the frame sizes are different. The 586 & 686 guns are on the "L" frame. This is smaller than the the "N" frame, which is the frame that the models 27 & 28 are on. Personally I think the N-framed guns have nicer triggers, but others may differ. Because the 586 & 686 guns have full length underlugs they are not appreciably lighter than the 27 or 28.
 
I agree the "L" or "N" frames in .357 are better for full time full house .357 shooting. That said, I don't know too many people who are into that. Dare I say most will shoot a lot of .38 Specials or lightly loaded .357 cases for routine practice & save the ball-busting barn-burning full house .357's for special occasions. I've had a "K" frame Model 19 for years & it's had a steady diet of .38 Specials thru it...;)
 
The handgun I regret selling the most was a 5" .357 N-frame S&W. Deep, dark blueing, crisp trigger and smooth action. My current big revolver is a Colt Anaconda.....its pretty sweet too ;) .
 
Trigun said:
There are some carry models with smaller flame are build for personal defence and protection, which means you only use them to defence and not for fire three hundred round full load every week for target.
Click to expand...
don't mean to hijack but isn't it a good idea to practice with the same ammo that you would use to carry (hey since I took the UTAH CCW course I can ask such questions ;) )

RL
 
RL1 said:
don't mean to hijack but isn't it a good idea to practice with the same ammo that you would use to carry (hey since I took the UTAH CCW course I can ask such questions ;) )

RL
Click to expand...

A little knowledge can be a dangerous thing.......:rolleyes:
 
Dragoon said:
A little knowledge can be a dangerous thing.......:rolleyes:
Click to expand...

right...thanks for demonstrating that...can someone with a lot of knowledge answer the question please.

RL
 
Although I don't pretend to have 'a lot' of knowledge, allow me to answer...... That would depend on what you're practicing. No need to use duty/carry ammo when practicing the fundamentals.....an example would be .22 conversion units for many popular semi-auto pistols.
 
Last edited:
Though this thread is getting a little off track, my biggest concern was that the handgun would hold up everytime I chose to take it to the range and fired only .357 mag or .44 mag. from it.

On another thread it was argued that 9mm and .38 special were comparative and I can see the value in that as well.

As it is, I am seeking out a 29-2 and/or a 686 now and feel that these two Smith and Wessons are what I am looking for. If a 629 or a 586 show up, I believe that those two would also fulfill what I would be looking for in S&Ws.

Thanks again for all the help. I greatly appreciate it for all the reading in the world doesn't compare to personal experience. And that is why CGN is such a great and valueable resource!

Best regards everyone,
Geoff
 
Some great reading on the model 29 and all it's diffences in desigations can be found at http://www.sixguns.com/range/SmithWesson44Mag.htm . I have several 29/629's and diffence in quality and fit and finish is night and day from the very early ones to the later models. The early models were extremely well made deep rich blueing and I am sure were hand fitted because my Mod 29 from 1958 is rock solid. You do a timing check, #### the hammer and while still holding the trigger all the way back you let the hammer fall and check how solid the cylinder is in the frame. With that model you can't feel any movement at all, nothing up and down back and forth or side to side. You take off the side plate and there are no machine marks visable. You take the parts out and it is a chore, you have to wiggle back and forth, very tight fitting and the trigger pull is second to none, even my python isn't as clean. My 29-2 from 1980 has slight endshake and a couple thou side to side that I need to fix here in the next couple of weeks. Removing the side plate and machine marks everywhere. The parts I swear you have to just barley touch and they come right off there pins. Trigger is good but no where near the early model. The blueing is average but having said all that it still is a great revolver and easy to get parts for. I have a 629-4 which has the strengthing package added and I have a scope mounted for load dev. work. This is fun to shoot and with the pachmeyer grips even full house loads and not unpleasant. My favorite plinking load is 8 grn. unique over handcast 240gn. swc. At 25 yards I can get about 1.5" all day. For full house I use 21.4grn 2400 over 220grn. copper jacket lead and it will do the same at 50 yards.

Read the article on the Model 29 and decide for yourself which is best for you.

For the .357 you can't go wrong with a model 27/28 they are great shooters and like the previous person said a steady diet of .38 specials is what most shooters practise with. When I go to the range I shoot the 28 with target .38 specials I usually run thru about 2 boxes to get warmed up and then switch to .357's and continue for another two boxes and then to the 29/629 combo's with light target loads which are slightly less than full house 357's and then to the big boys for some fun.
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top Bottom