SMLE loose screws

PanzerSchreck

PanzerSchreck

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Etobicoke, Ontario (GTA)
Hello All,

Just wondering if anyone has ever used thread-lock to keep Lee Enfield screws from lossening at the range. I'd like to hear of other alternatives that work. I wonder how the troops handled this pesky issue in the field? I guess Enfield didn't believe in lock-screws like Mauser.

Cheers
 
PanzerSchreck said:
Hello All,

Just wondering if anyone has ever used thread-lock to keep Lee Enfield screws from lossening at the range. I'd like to hear of other alternatives that work. I wonder how the troops handled this pesky issue in the field? I guess Enfield didn't believe in lock-screws like Mauser.

Cheers
Click to expand...

If you are talking about the front guard screw, AKA "king screw" you can often see that the edge of the screw head was peened to prevent rotation in it's recess in the trigger guard. I don't know that this was the wisest move because variations in humidity will cause a stock to swell/contract which requires that the guard screw be re-tightened- a bit of a ##### when it has been peened in place.

Most folk keep a set of screwdrivers in their range box to snug up the guard screws/scope mount screws should the need arise. I like the Chapman set with various sizes of interchangeable driver blades to fit a variety of different screw heads.
 
Thanks for your comments. Yes, I too carry a set of varied tools to the range but the question however is why I would need to and I am looking for a permanent solution (I understand the SMLE is an iconic Canadian rifle rooted in our history, which is why I have two but geez - the quality isn't the same as a mauser). I think I will resort to the thread-lock solution mentioned earlier. Not historically authentic but who cares, really? Thanks again. Cheers
 
I think so!

BTW has anyone ever stripped the King Screw? It sure feels wonky going in. It seems to tighten, then finds a loose spot only to finally tighten again. This happens on both my SMLE No.1 Mk. 3 1914 and 1944 models. Wondering if that's normal - probably not but don't know for sure.
 
Immobilizing the screw isn't really a permanent solution because of the stock contraction/expansion factor. You need to be able to re-tighten the guard screw because of this, and a tight guard screw is essential for accurate shooting. I find it necessary to periodically re-tighten the guard screws on a lot of my bolt guns, except for the ones with synthetic or glass bedded stocks.

You could try another screw, or the blue locktite, or even peen a couple of spots on the threads very lightly to displace a bit of the thread edge if you believe that the threads have been stripped to some extent.
 
Thanks purple. I imagine by 'guard screw' you are referring to the Rear Trigger Guard Screw? That's the only guard screw I can see on the parts diagram.

I think I'll go with the locktite solution and screwdriver as a back-up.

It's kinda funny thinking the British war-machine could've come to a grinding stop with rifles risking to come apart at any time after a fire-fight. Unless the troops were kitted out with a screw-driver set, of course!
 
I am talking about the screw in front of the magazine well that secures the trigger guard to the bottom of the receiver ring. The lateral screw that passes thru the rear of the trigger guard serves more like a pin. That one becoming loose isn't normally an issue.

As mentioned, the standard British ordnance solution to a loose front guard screw was to peen the edge of the trigger guard recess for the screw with the aim of preventing the screw from turning. Also, troops like to #### with things, hence the term "soldier proof" when describing a piece of military equipment. This accomplishes the same thing as the 3 locking screws for the Mauser 98 guard screws, although the Mauser is a more elegant solution.
 
The trick is in throwing up enough metal to secure the fastener, but so much as to mar it.

Upon re-assembling the following screws they should be secured as described.
(i) Screw, guard, trigger, front and screw, spring, bolt locking.—The metal of the components into which the screws assemble will be expanded into the screw-driver slots, after the screws have been carefully tightened, by centre-punching, as illustrated (Fig. 6) Care should be exercised when centre-punching to avoid cutting away the metal of the components.

standard.jpg

(ii) Screw, sear.—See that the sear screw is screwed tightly home; make a scriber or pencil mark for the position of the notch on the end of the screw at the bottom edge. Remove the sear screw, and, with a small 3-square file cut a small “V” notch in the end of the screw where marked; replace the screw and screw home tightly; then with the centre-punch, indent the metal of the body into the notch (see Fig. 7) and re-assemble the rifle.

Note.—This applies to rifles in use in which the bolt-head retaining spring is not held rigidly owing to the sear screw having worked loose; but it will be carried out also in all rifles undergoing repair and rifles manufactured in future.
standard.jpg
 
Thanks for the details. All I can say is "Wow!". Seems to me this is a truly permanent solution as in once it's done you could never disassemble the rifle again as you'd never get the screws out in the top diagram or could only with great perseverence realign the v-notch with the punch-mark in the bottom diagram. Thank the stars for locktite, which is the way I'm heading.
 
The screws must tighten up once they are south of the border since i have never found a loose one. However, there is an armourer's tool for checking the height of the bushing that the king screw runs through so that it will be tight. The fore end can be compressed over time and adjusting the height of the bushing compensates for that.
 
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