SMLE No1 MkIII Aiming corrections

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Badbuzz

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Good day All,

So I refurbished a SMLE that I inheirited, gave it new wood, and checked the headspacing, and I was good to go to the range.

I took it to the range shot from the bench and found that it shoots quite low and to the right. Now besides the obvious manual corrections (point of aim), is there a way to technically correct where it shoots?

The unfortunate thing is that the parts are not matching, so this may be a reason why? Suggestions?

W.
 
For windage you can adjust the position of the front post. For elevation you will be looking at replacing that front post for a different height of one or filing it down/adding to it(and filing to make uniform).

Best of luck. Any pics of her all prettied up?
 
Badbuzz said:
Good day All,

So I refurbished a SMLE that I inheirited, gave it new wood, and checked the headspacing, and I was good to go to the range.

I took it to the range shot from the bench and found that it shoots quite low and to the right. Now besides the obvious manual corrections (point of aim), is there a way to technically correct where it shoots?

The unfortunate thing is that the parts are not matching, so this may be a reason why? Suggestions?

W.
Click to expand...

First of all, there is a great LACK of information in your post. Assuming you have not mounted a scope, just what kind of sights are you using?

You say you refurbished a SMLE. Is there original military wood on it, or is it a Sporterized rifle? Is there original sights, or have they been replaced?

A front sight is usually dovetailed into a mount. It can be moved sideways with a brass punch or drift, (we will assume you do not have a sight pusher.) If the rifle is shooting right, the front sight will have to be moved to the right, or the rear sight moved to the left.

Elevation can be corrected by putting a lower front sight on the rifle, or simply by raising the rear sight. If necessary, the front sight can be filed down.

No actual calculations can be given, as you did not give us the information of the distance to the target, the vertical distance on the target that it was low and the horizontal distance from the center line. Also, what type and weight of ammunition were you using?

If the SMLE was refurbished, and has full wood in the military configuration, did you put the stud and spring back into the nosecap? The STUD is a rounded "Y" shaped piece of metal that puts upward pressure onto the barrel because of the spring pushing upwards under it.

Also, check the forestock in the receiver area. At the rear of the trigger cut out, where the stock comes up against the butt socket, there is a thin area of wood. Check for "the damned crack." This is a common crack that happens and will give vertical stringing. If it is cracked, then glue it back together, epoxy is best.

NOTICE -- IMPORTANT INFORMATION FOR ANYONE WHO TAKES THE WOOD OFF A SHORT, MAGAZINE, LEE-ENFIELD

On the Number SMLE type of Lee-Enfield rifles, you MUST take the FORESTOCK OFF FIRST. On most of these rifles, the butt stock bolt has a squared end, and this square end fits into a corresponding slot in a metal piece at the rear of the fore end wood. Attempting to take the butt stock off first, before removing the forestock, will put sideways pressure on the weaker area of the forestock in the trigger area, and cause it to split or crack.
.
 
buffdog said:
First of all, there is a great LACK of information in your post. Assuming you have not mounted a scope, just what kind of sights are you using?

You say you refurbished a SMLE. Is there original military wood on it, or is it a Sporterized rifle? Is there original sights, or have they been replaced?

Original walnut (full wood). It was a full wood to begin with, however, most of the wood had splits/cracks in it, besides the buttstock. I am also using the original iron sights

A front sight is usually dovetailed into a mount. It can be moved sideways with a brass punch or drift, (we will assume you do not have a sight pusher.) If the rifle is shooting right, the front sight will have to be moved to the right, or the rear sight moved to the left.

Elevation can be corrected by putting a lower front sight on the rifle, or simply by raising the rear sight. If necessary, the front sight can be filed down.

No actual calculations can be given, as you did not give us the information of the distance to the target, the vertical distance on the target that it was low and the horizontal distance from the center line. Also, what type and weight of ammunition were you using?

The distance to the target was 100 M. Was using Winchester super x powerpoint

If the SMLE was refurbished, and has full wood in the military configuration, did you put the stud and spring back into the nosecap? The STUD is a rounded "Y" shaped piece of metal that puts upward pressure onto the barrel because of the spring pushing upwards under it.

The stud and spring are all in

Also, check the forestock in the receiver area. At the rear of the trigger cut out, where the stock comes up against the butt socket, there is a thin area of wood. Check for "the damned crack." This is a common crack that happens and will give vertical stringing. If it is cracked, then glue it back together, epoxy is best.

No Crack. All Good

NOTICE -- IMPORTANT INFORMATION FOR ANYONE WHO TAKES THE WOOD OFF A SHORT, MAGAZINE, LEE-ENFIELD

On the Number SMLE type of Lee-Enfield rifles, you MUST take the FORESTOCK OFF FIRST. On most of these rifles, the butt stock bolt has a squared end, and this square end fits into a corresponding slot in a metal piece at the rear of the fore end wood. Attempting to take the butt stock off first, before removing the forestock, will put sideways pressure on the weaker area of the forestock in the trigger area, and cause it to split or crack.
.
Click to expand...


The rifle was disassembled/assembled as per original armourer specs.

I will use the sight adjustments that you mentioned, hopefully that will dial it in.

I should have taken before/after pics. I will just have to settle with after pics, and will post them when I get a chance.

W.
 
Windage gets adjusted by moving the front sight in the opposite direction you want the group to go. 'Right' for your rifle.
As mentioned elevation is done either by changing the front site or raising the rear sight. Marstar lists front sight blades at $6 each, but no heights are given.
 
Pick up a copy of " The Accurate Lee Enfield" by Stephen Redgwell. It has the details on how to adjust the front sight, (specifies target to shoot at, at what distance, how to measure your current sight and what sight should be used to correct point of aim). Your ammo will make a big difference as well. If you are shooting 180 grain factory I have always found them to shoot low in most of my Enfields.
 
Ammo

One thing you have to realize is that the sight graduations are marked for Mark 7 ball ammunition in most cases. An early SMLE could even be graduated for Mark 6 ammunition. It will, in most cases, be necessary to compensate and adjust your sights for commercial ammunition.

Different weights, brands, and other factors all combine to have your rounds hit in different places.

.
 
Speaking of front sights, does anyone have the proper height for the foresight blade for a SMLE? My Lithgow shoots about 6" high at 100 yds, so either I find a higher one or somehow add height to the existing one.
 
Badbuzz said:
I took it to the range shot from the bench and found that it shoots quite low and to the right. Now besides the obvious manual corrections (point of aim), is there a way to technically correct where it shoots?
Click to expand...

As sunray says ....

Remember the acronym ...

FORS = Front opposite, Rear same........ :)

If your grouping is low, you need to lower the height of the front sight, or raise the height of the rear sight.

If your grouping is to the right, you need to move the front sight to the right or move the rear sight to the left.

If you're going to do a lot of Enfield collecting or shooting them at the range, one of the best books I've ever read (and trained with) on shooting the Enfield rifle is available in electronic format, professionally scanned (thanks to Ian Robertson), in the Knowledge Library section Technical Articles for Milsurp Collectors and Re-loaders (click here)http://www.milsurps.com/content.php...esearch-for-milsurp-collectors-and-re-loaders

"Shoot-to-Live" - 1945 (click here)

Presenting the Johnson Method of Musketry Coaching As Adopted By the Canadian Army, Ottawa, Chief of the General Staff.

This is an excellent Canadian Government issued training manual. If you are specifically a collector and shooter of Lee Enfield rifles, you'll find this to be an outstanding reference work and it contains a wealth of information on how to properly shoot the No.4 Mk1 Enfield, although much of the content is applicable to any bolt action rifle. I remember being issued this manual as part of our regimental rifle team, when I was a little younger back in the early 60's. ;)

Hope this helps... :)

Regards,
Doug
 
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