smle nose cap to barrel fit
- Thread starter desporterizer
- Start date
Yes the barrel should be touching between 10:00 and 2:00, if not the spring and stud are missing or not doing their job. (weak spring)
Hey Ed, would you happen to have in your files the section where (in the Instruction for Armorers?) this is specified? I remembered reading about the contact point but also remember some folks specifying that there weren't suppose to be contact. I'd like to clear that confusion in my mind. Thanks
Lou
Lou
INSTRUCTIONS FOR
ARMOURERS
PART II
SMALL ARMS
____________
CHAPTER I
Section 3.—Examination
Rifles No. 1 and No. 2, Mk. IV*
ARMOURERS
PART II
SMALL ARMS
____________
CHAPTER I
Section 3.—Examination
Rifles No. 1 and No. 2, Mk. IV*
5. Freedom of the muzzle of the barrel and fit of the bayonet.— Insert a hard wood plug in the muzzle of the barrel and test to see that the barrel is free in the nose-cap and that it is pressed upward by the stud and spring.
NOTE: I have other manuals that also state the barrel should be touching at the very top of the nose cap. Some nose caps have small raised sections located at 10:00 and 2:00 and some do not in that case it should be touching at the 12:00 O'clock position.
Note to Lou
Why does the old guy with memory loss and Alzheimer's have to do all the work
Thanks Ed. Hey maybe all that brain work is just what the doctor ordered
To me, the quoted instruction that says that there should be no contact with the nose-cap but positive upward pressure from the stud?
To me, the quoted instruction that says that there should be no contact with the nose-cap but positive upward pressure from the stud?
Thanks Ed. Hey maybe all that brain work is just what the doctor ordered
To me, the quoted instruction that says that there should be no contact with the nose-cap but positive upward pressure from the stud?
Lou, I'm not sure what you are saying above.
Are you saying you have written material that states the barrel should not touch the nose cap opening.
Or are you saying you take or understand the Instructions for Armourers to mean "pushing upward but not touching the nose cap opening".
It is my understanding the only No.1 barrel that does not touch the nose cap opening is the Australian "rubber nose" modification. On this it is my understanding the nose cap barrel hole is enlarged and a rubber grommet is fitted into the nose cap hole and isolates and supports the barrel from the nose cap (and dampens vibrations)
Well I read my previous post and I think I don't even understand it myself
What I meant was that when reading this section of the Armourers' instructions,
"Insert a hard wood plug in the muzzle of the barrel and test to see that the barrel is free in the nose-cap"
I thought it meant that the barrel should be free from any contact with the nose cap.
One more time.
The barrel "should" touch the nose cap hole opening at approximately 12:00.
It is the spring and studs job to push upward on the barrel until it contacts the nose cap hole opening at approximately 12:00.
My name is Ed Horton and I supplied 95% of all Enfield books and manuals you see on the Internet today, and I even read them.
What I can't show you because it is copyright protected is the 1946 "Competitive Rifle Shooting" by Jim Sweet with the "Black arts of SMLE bedding" which goes into even more detail.
If your barrel is not touching at the top of the nose cap opening something is wrong with the spring and stud.
Now ask yourselves a few simple questions:
1. What is the diameter of the nose cap barrel hole?
2. What is the diameter of the barrel at the muzzel?
3. If you put a spring under the barrel near the muzzle with so little clearance between the barrel and nose cap barrel hole where do you think the barrel is going to touching.
Remember this!
The spring and studs job is to supply up pressure at the fore end tip.
The center band screw is to only be tightened until spring compression is felt. If the center band screw is over tightened the barrel is pulled down in the middle and this will cause the rifle to shoot high. (the barrel will be bent in a "U" shape)
Trust me I even have Enfield manuals written in Dutch.
And even ACIs in simple English.
The barrel "should" touch the nose cap hole opening at approximately 12:00.
It is the spring and studs job to push upward on the barrel until it contacts the nose cap hole opening at approximately 12:00.
My name is Ed Horton and I supplied 95% of all Enfield books and manuals you see on the Internet today, and I even read them.
What I can't show you because it is copyright protected is the 1946 "Competitive Rifle Shooting" by Jim Sweet with the "Black arts of SMLE bedding" which goes into even more detail.
If your barrel is not touching at the top of the nose cap opening something is wrong with the spring and stud.
Now ask yourselves a few simple questions:
1. What is the diameter of the nose cap barrel hole?
2. What is the diameter of the barrel at the muzzel?
3. If you put a spring under the barrel near the muzzle with so little clearance between the barrel and nose cap barrel hole where do you think the barrel is going to touching.
Remember this!
The spring and studs job is to supply up pressure at the fore end tip.
The center band screw is to only be tightened until spring compression is felt. If the center band screw is over tightened the barrel is pulled down in the middle and this will cause the rifle to shoot high. (the barrel will be bent in a "U" shape)
Trust me I even have Enfield manuals written in Dutch.
And even ACIs in simple English.
See, now that makes a whole lot of sense, and thanks for the details Ed. I knew the stud had to be there for a reason, and the work that would be require to tune it, to get upward pressure on the barrel yet for the muzzle not to touch the nose cap, well, that would have been too weird. (Then again, English engineering can produce the weirdest things, but...)
Thanks Ed,
Lou
Thanks Ed,
Lou
On any rifle when you pull the trigger on a live round, the end of the barrel starts moving downward, this is caused by chamber pressure and gravity. At the bottom of of the downward movement the barrel then starts upward and it is also vibrating like a tuning fork.
Below is what happens when you have a loose fore stock, no up pressure and the barrel is flexing up and down.
(this was the best group fired out of five groups fired at 50 yards)
Below the same Enfield after proper bedding and the correct up pressure at the fore end tip. 10 rounds, 50 yards.
Below is what happens when you have a loose fore stock, no up pressure and the barrel is flexing up and down.
(this was the best group fired out of five groups fired at 50 yards)
Below the same Enfield after proper bedding and the correct up pressure at the fore end tip. 10 rounds, 50 yards.
- Location
- Tucson, Arizona
But then I have a range rifle where the hole in the nosecap has been enlarged and a rubber bushing is fitted around the muzzle.
You have an Australian range rifle that has been modified into a "rubber nose" Enfield and these rifles usually have the heavy barrel.
They also have non-military bedding.
So John, show me the rubber bushing or grommit below in this Australian Military parts manual.
- Location
- Tucson, Arizona
I said nothing about the bushing being in the parts breakdown, just that I have a range rifle with that set-up so don't get so upset.
It's only one of the 200 Enfields I have. And since I bought it from OZ, I know it's Australian.
It's only one of the 200 Enfields I have. And since I bought it from OZ, I know it's Australian.
John I'm not upset, I'm just a little amazed that you are off topic and a little "cranky."
The question was "Is the barrel supposed to be touching the nosecap?".
The answer is "yes" the barrel should be touching the nose cap.
And you are right John, the bushing isn't in the parts manual because the Enfield you have has modified non-standard bedding.
So John, on how many of your 200 plus Enfields is the barrel touching the nose cap?????
