So how do the NEA Ar's shoot

.. a side note; those with the old rails, we're asking to smash the bejeebus out of them with whatever is at hand rather than sending them back (once their replacements arrive from us). Just send us a photo of the demise. Give them a chance to get a little revenge.
 
Thanks to Gun Nutz for this forum. I picked up my new NEA 14, 14.5 carbine, 3 days ago from Target. After cranking on their NEA Crusader muzzle brake, to my horror, the whole forward rail hand guard system shifted a full quarter inch to the right at the front end, and with very little pressure, it also drops down a quarter inch in the front. So the iron sights I bought will always be compromised by this "wiggle" in the front. I couldn't believe it, it just seems like such a basic design flaw, that I now have to deal with, on my first AR too.

That said, I like NEA, supporting the home team feels right, the price was fair, and this is a new company. I look forward to dealing with them to fix this and from what I've read here that should be a pleasure. Thanks again for this forum, I was living in a cave too.

Umm... I hate to point this out to you, but you are supposed to REMOVE the quad rail and clamp the BARREL when you torque on a new muzzle device. You are lucky you didn't irreprably damage the rifle (I assume you didn't?) by torquing a device onto a rifle with a full-length rail still installed.

Improper maintenance is NOT the manufacturer's fault - it's yours.
 
If it's a 12" rail with a clamp cut on the sides 'longer' than the first venting holes on the side it is one of the old ones.

Hi Dave, please take a look at pics below and let me know if I have old one. I hope pics are good.
IMG_0044.jpg

IMG_0046.jpg

IMG_0045.jpg
 
Wow look how off centered the barrel is in the hand guard .. your gona have problems zeroing your irons..
It not off, looks like the gas block might be off centred

look at the pictures from the side, the barrel is running horizontally to the side rails. Not to mention the picture you quoted was taken off centre and angled in relation to the gun.
 
It not off, looks like the gas block might be off centred

look at the pictures from the side, the barrel is running horizontally to the side rails. Not to mention the picture you quoted was taken off centre and angled in relation to the gun.

Something is obviously out of wack .. look at the gas block. lol thats not right ,, the camera angle is not the problem .
 
Something is obviously out of wack .. look at the gas block

Its the gas block. Mine was also crooked and i had to straighten it. It was sitting at 11 o'clock.

My guess is, somebody was building guns that day using a blind fold.
 
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Its the gas block. Mine was also crooked and i had to straighten it. It was sitting at 11 o'clock.

My guess is, somebody was building guns that day using a blind fold. Despite the growing pains, the guys at NEA have been pleasant to deal with and quick to help.

There is a vote for Quality Control for sure...........
 
FWIW, there is some art involved in centring these low pro gas blocks. I don't know of any jig the centre them, I do it by eye by placing a parallel bar on the lower flat and alight it to the bottom of the upper receiver using another parallel bar.

I suspect the NEA guns will still work with a crooked block as the gas block hole is a lot bigger than the barrel gas port, so as long as the gas port is not blocked, it actually hurts nothing except aesthetics.
 
Thanx guys, so what can I do here before taking this fella to the range?

If the gas block really bothers you, you can remove the hand guard, loosen the allen set screws on the bottom (use a good quality key, the screws are probably loctited) and re-index it.

Go to the hardware store and buy 2 lengths of 1/4" key stock as they make AWESOME parallels for M1913 rails. clamp a parallel (key stock) to the bottom flat of the gas block between the set screws, and clam another to the flat bottom of the upper receiver (dismounted from the lower). Sight along the parallels and straighten the gas block until the two parallels are... you guessed it... parallel to each other. Dab a little blue loctite or red loctite 222MS on the set screws and re-tighten them.

Now put the parallel bars in the slots on the upper rails of both the upper receiver flat and the hand guard out by the muzzle. Alight the parallels again and tighten the retaining screws on the hand guard. Done.

Of course, if that is too much effort, just live with it the way it is. It's not likely to affect function the way it is.

Other things to do before going to the range include:

1) Check that all screws are tight and that the castellated nut on the receiver extension is staked in place.
2) Oil the cr@p out of the bolt and upper receiver, as well as the pins for the hammer and trigger.
3) Run an oily patch down the bore, let it sit for a few minutes and then run a dry patch down the bore. This is in case there is any residue left in the bore from the finish treatment.
4) Do general function and safety checks as you would for any semi-auto. Cycle the action to #### the hammer, apply the safety, pull the trigger and make sure the safety works. Disengage the safety and fire the gun. Keep the trigger depressed and cycle the action with the charging handle. The hammer should be held back, even though the trigger is depressed. Gently release the trigger, the gun should not fire. Re-apply the safety and take it off again - verify the hammer does not drop.

You're good to go - go shoot it.
 
Thnx Claven2, that's I wanted to see if it is major issue or good to fix, but not really a big a deal and everything should work as supposed. I am new to AR and this fella is first one for me, so a lot of learning here. I learned already from another thread. Thnx again
 
No prob. If you run into any issues, pm me. I can probably walk you through a fix. Most AR issues turn out to be minor, or user-related. If not, then NEA has a great warranty.
 
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