So I bought an 1858 kit (uberti new model army)...

S

Smcx

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Bought it from a sponsor. Didn't realize that it was unfinished. Doesn't say on the website that it's an unfinished kit.

Anyway...

I'm going to proceed with finishing it. I don't have any tools, and I'm hoping that someone can point me in the right direction for procedures/tools for getting out the machining marks on the frame and trigger guard. I'm guessing that I should make it mirror like before trying to blue it.

I'm also new to black powder. This should be a journey eh?!?

Thx!
 
I'm not sure what the kit needs doing but you might want to talk to the seller about not getting what you were expecting if it's beyond the capability of your tools.

If you include pictures or some idea what needs doing people here will certainly help with advice.
I.e. for bluing you want a smooth even finish but not a mirror polish. I'd guess maybe to 400 or 600 grit.

Best of luck with the project. It'll be a great learning experience.
 
... I don't have any tools,...
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I can't imagine anyone with NO tools. Now if you mean no machine shop tools that's fine. But that doesn't mean you can't finish the kit if that is what you want to do. But assuming you only have the usual home owner or apartment dweller tool kit of screwdrivers, pliers and maybe a set of wrenches than consider that finishing this kit will likely require you to buy as much again in cost for some sort of vise and a Workmate or other bench like device to hold the vise along with files, emery paper and a few other odd ball bits and pieces. Much of what the list will actually be involves pictures of what the parts in this kit gun actually look like.

There will be another steep learning curve as well. Being that it's a kit this also means that the parts of the action were never fitted and tuned. The parts come as fairly lumpy pieces at the best of times when you purchase replacement parts. Things like the cylinder bolt, hand, teeth on the rear of the cylinder, trigger sear and cam on the hammer all need to be fitted in a very particular order and degree during final assembly. A kit gun implies that none of these parts are fitted in such a way. And the thing is that with a single action of this style each part needs to be fitted in a certain way and in a specific order so that the final work produces a gun which is timed correctly such that it operates within a rather limited range of adjustment and results in a good lockup and positioning of the cylinder. And it's one of those things where if you go too far on one part then the only option is to buy another part. So add learning to do something like this to the list of jobs to learn.

Really the better option is to contact the seller and bare your soul about how you did not realize that it was a kit requiring final fitting and assembly. Ask that he take the kit back on credit towards an assembled gun. And if you are SURE it did not say that it was a kit gun on the web then it would be worth pointing that out to them. Maybe it did say it was a kit gun but you assumed it meant it was a "kit" that came with some other accessories? Anyway try to work out something with the seller since you are looking at a fairly involved and somewhat expensive process to buy the tools you will want to get and to learn all the skills and knowledge needed to not just finish the parts for shape and surface but also the job of learning how all the parts work very exactly and what is involved in setting up the "timing" of a single action revolver. It very much is NOT a drop in sort of setup.
 
Well, I can't post pics because I'm at work. As for "kit" gun, the gun is sold by uberti fully assembled, with the internals finished and good to go. Timing is perfect and it has been proof fired. Trigger feels nice at 3-4lbs. The frame has forging and tooling marks on it, as does the brass trigger guard. The grips are attached to the frame, but have not been fitted or finished. The barrel has a good finish but is bare steel. The loading lever is finished and blued. The screws are blued. It was $400 from wolverine. I need to smooth everything out and put some sort of finish on it. I'm guessing I'll need a vise and files. Sandpaper also. I'm going to make a project out of it.
 
Many years ago, I bought a 36 Navy kit; there was very little finishing to do but there was an error in the instructions which said the cylinder gap with the barrel was supposed to be .040". It was my first kit and first revolver and like a fool I followed the instructions. I corrected the error by setting the barrel back .036" to leave the proper gap of around .004"
I suspect that all you will require is some abrasive tape and oil to sand the metal smooth or at least remove any tool marks. On my gun there was minimal work needed on the moving parts. In terms of learning how to load and maintain your gun, you might be wise to ask in the Black Powder forum where quite a few of use shoot cap and ball revolvers

cheers mooncoon
 
If the action is already done and it's only the external finishing then at least all the critical stuff is done. And it makes the whole project FAR more attainable even for someone with little to no tools and I'm guessing a fairly basic skill set for how to do this sort of work.

Much of what you require will depend on the actual condition of the parts in question. For example is the trigger guard shaped but left rough or the cross section of the metal of the guard just a flat ribbon like shape with squared off edges. In section it should look like a cross section of a seed from some fruit in that it's more or less football like in cross section but flatter.

If it's actually rough shaped and only needs final smoothing then you can make do with a few less tools. I would still suggest some nice fine cut files for the flat areas. But a lot of the other stuff can be done with just emery tape.

A half round coarse cut metal file makes a superb wood rasp for shaping and initial finishing of the grips as well.

Since it's a Remington with side scales for the grips I'd also suggest that you cut out some scrap wood in the shape of the grip frame area and even put the pin in the wood part. It should be a piece of 1x4 about a foot or so long. The frame shape is cut into one end. The other is to hold in the vise or clamp down to a work stand or bench. Then screw the wood scales down to this holder. That leaves you both hands to use on the coarse file like you are supposed to do. Using two hands on a rasp or file ensures a much greater degree of control over the shaping.

More later. This is just a teaser .... :d
 
Lol thanks. Everything is in it's final shape. It just needs the tooling marks removed. Except the grips need shaping, they're larger than the frame, and the final shape isn't fully defined. I guess I'll cold blue the gun after... hey what about cold bluing it first so that I can tell if i get everything smoothed out properly?

Should I blue inside the chambers? Should I remove the nipples and barrel and blue the threads?

Thx!
 
Taking the barrel off and "clocking" it back correctly is a pretty specialized job. I'd just blue over the frame and barrel in one piece.

Inside the chambers is an option. I know that my C&B revolvers all have blued chambers. And yes, since the nipples are easy to take out you should remove them for bluing.

Cold bluing first to see the smoothing and aid in seeing when all the blue lines are gone isn't a bad idea at all. It's only going to cost you about a buck's worth of cold blue solution. Best of all it will give you a chance to experiment with the best way to apply the bluing for an even and deep coloured job.

Any residual blue can be removed with vinegar, bluing remover or find some Bar Keeper's Friend. It does a really good job on removing the bluing and it makes cleaning stainless cookwear and sinks a breeze. You'll want to remove the finish indicator bluing as it will be all finger oiled by that time and you want to start with pristine metal for the final job.

Buffed to a nice smooth semi gloss sheen is good. But avoid a true mirror finish. Fuzzy looking mirror is OK though. A light texture aids in getting a more even finish and it also aids in holding an oil film on the metal for better corrosion resistance.

I've gone through four different cold blue products now. My favorite cold blue by far is the G96 brand "gel" style. I find that after cleaning with solvent that if I wash the part in very hot water with a good detergent to give it the last degreasing then apply the blue while still hot and wet but fully rinsed of any detergent or soap that the bluing takes really well and gives a nice dense color. I then use an old tooth brush to clean off the used bluing gel under scalding hot water. Then dry it. The results when drying look more black than blue. But once oiled there's a really nice deep blue sheen when the light hits it right.

Note that to keep finger oils from affecting the bluing job you really should be wearing disposable gloves. Latex or Nitrile doesn't matter in this case. But I use Nitrile because I use them also when using solvents for cleaning guns and any other shop use involving solvents or LOTS of oil.
 
Thx for the info. I was just looking at the g96 bluing products yesterday, and picked the liquid instead of the gel :(

So I'm guessing that I'll just have to sand the sculpted parts of the frame with sandpaper and fingers, and use a file for the flats (with progressively finer sandpaper wrapped over the file to finish).

Do I use the half round metal file to rough shape the walnut grips?

I have lots of nitrile gloves due to my line of work ;)

Something I can't find now is powder and caps :/
... and a hat. I think I'll need a hat. And a holster.
 
5 hours later, and some sore hands. Files, 80 sanding down to 400 grit. I washed the frame in soapy water, then non-chlorinated brake cleaner, then rubbing alcohol. G96 blue still did not go on even :(
Rubbed it down with g96 oil and steel wool. Looks kinda antique now lol! I may keep it this way! Can't wait to get my hornady .454 balls and powder measure once it clears customs and canada post. I ended up buying purodex p as it's all i could find.
 
Smcx said:
5 hours later, and some sore hands. Files, 80 sanding down to 400 grit. I washed the frame in soapy water, then non-chlorinated brake cleaner, then rubbing alcohol. G96 blue still did not go on even :(
Rubbed it down with g96 oil and steel wool. Looks kinda antique now lol! I may keep it this way! Can't wait to get my hornady .454 balls and powder measure once it clears customs and canada post. I ended up buying purodex p as it's all i could find.
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If you decide that bluing is annoying ya, you can give rust bluing a try; that is also period correct. Here's a link to my thread on browning (just boil the parts after browning to get a blue) using just Wal-Mart ingredients I haven't yet updated this thread but used it lots since. I have boiled a number of parts to blue using this recipe, it does work well. No steam box necessary either, just warm the (CLEANED] parts with a propane torch 'n' "Bob's yer uncle" as they say:

https://www.canadiangunnutz.com/forum/showthread.php/1353335-Simple-DIY-Rust-Browning
 
Awesome. I'll give it a read!

Btw, here is a pic
ivvlva.jpg
 
Yeah that rust bluing looks a little scary lol. I'm going to start hunting for an actual antique remington, and then I might give it a go on the uberti.
 
Smcx said:
Yeah that rust bluing looks a little scary lol. I'm going to start hunting for an actual antique remington, and then I might give it a go on the uberti.
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Understandable - may not be for the faint of heart until you've done a few pieces.

I've used it with some success to match finish on replacement parts to the original finish on a couple antiques now, some with patina ("brown") and some with original bluing.
 
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