So I wanna start reloading 30-30

mlehtovaara

mlehtovaara

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Been reloading pistol rounds for a couple years now(9mm, 45acp, 44mag) but now I am biting the bullet and stepping up to rifle cartridges because my fetish for lever guns has brought me to buy a 30-30.

So I realize case lube and trimming is the big difference, but is there anything else I should know.

Do I really need a Factory Crimp die? Is roll crimp good enough?

Where can I get some cheap bullets? God damn $35/100 is crazy!!!!

What powder should I be using the local shop usually stocks alot of Aliant. I am leaning towards unique for the range for some plinking. I know slower powders are prolly better for full power loads but thats not really what Im looking for. Just plinking at 50 yards.

Thanks For The Help
Mark
 
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We've had 2 30-30's, a marlin and a savage offbreed bolt. The best loads we found were with IMR 4198 in the marlin(170gr), and 3031 in the bolt(150gr), but your's may be different. W748 worked well, but I just don't like the spherical powder(if you're close to SE AB, I'll make you one heck of a deal on some 748). You don't Need a factory crimp die, but I think it's a good idea, especially since they're under 25 bucks. We actually had the marlin for about 3 mo. before I had even heard of a factory crimp die. I looked at it as extra insurance since it was the wife's gun.

I've never reloaded pistol, so can't offer a comparison. Our experience start watching the brass for thin/weak, maybe even cracked tops starting after 7 loads. Again, our own experience we never had any stretching that needed trimming.

35 bucks/100 IS nuts. Shop around. We were paying around 22/100 for sierra/hornady bullets from both small privately owned shops, and at wholesale. Based solely on our own tests through miljugs into newspaper the sierra's are cheap for practice, I'd suggest hornady interlocks, nosler partitions, or hawks for hunting.
Have fun, there's a reason there's so many 30-30's around, they're a nice calibre, and lever's are just plain cool.:cool:
 
Suka gave you a lot of good information. I too, have never used the Reloader series. Quite a lot of years ago I loaded the 30-30 quite exrensively, when I was doing competetive shooting with it. I can't remember the powder I used then, but it likely was 4320. I would use 170 grain bullets and the traditional load seems to be 30 grains of 3031. 4895 is similar and also good.
As Suka mentioned, there is very little growth in length from shooting with the 30-30. I got more reloadings out of a case than he mentions.
I would not use a so-called factory crimp die. I loaded for a whale of a lot of years without one, then I started loading for the 45-70 and got a Lee factory crimp die. I tried it for a while, but didn't like it, so went back to the standard crimp die that every manufaturer makes. A 30-30 does not require a heavy crimp. Since you are starting, I hate to tell you that bullet tension alone, will hold the bullet, but it likely will.
If you want a nearly new 45-70 crimp die, I know where you can get a good deal on one!
 
So should I be trimming cases every loading or measure and see. I need a new powder measure to be able to use the rifle powders you guys are mentioning hence starting with unique. God damn tax return dissappeared real quick this year. LOL.
 
H4831 is right, bullet tension alone can work. However, if you're a hunter, and you may be taking the rounds in and out of tube mag a few times, or you fill the mag to the top every time, a crimp would be best IMO.
The standard crimp worked for me for many years, and you don't 'need' the factory crimp die, however, it does ensure more uniform crimps, without as much triming, and without buckling cases, as you are bound to do when you first start out with the 30-30. Light is the way to go, with the standard crimp, and your cases must be of equal length to get best results.
A test you can do to check your crimp is to try and twist the bullet with your fingers. If the crimp is right, and the case was properly sized, it should be near impossible, if it's too heavy, the case will buckle slightly, loosening neck tension, and the bullet will turn easily.
 
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My '94 likes 3031 and 170gr JRN
But even $30/100 is wild for a RN bullet and is why I'm going cast GC($16/100) for my 30-30 plinker rounds...doesn't hurt I can use them in my old .303 Savage either.

a Lee case length gauge is cheap and easy to use with a cordless drill.makes trimming to length an easy step and eliminated collapsed shoulders from roll crimping odd length brass.
I do it with every case every time...I know I don't have to but I do it anyway.
I enjoy reloading and don't mind taking the time.
 
Win 748/32gr/170gr/win brass/Fed mag primer or standard........Win 748 /34.5gr/150gr/win brass/Fed mag primer or standard......................Harold
 
I load a Lyman 170 grn. 311041 HP bullet over 28.5 GRN. of IMR 3031 for 1 1/4" at 100 yards out of my 2 winchester 94's. I size the bullet to .311 and it has accounted for 4 deer so far in the last 4 years. Bullet mushrooms out to just over 1/2" and is deadly.
 
It's OK to use pistol powder for plinking loads. But you have to realize that there is room in the case for a double charge of powder, which will probably develop enough pressure to blow up your gun. So if you do use pistol powder, arrange your loading procedures in such a way as to ensure that double charges DON'T happen.

If you do end up using pistol powder, the Lyman manual is usually a pretty good source of data for those sorts of loads. Use whatever pistol powder(s) you already have on hand that you can find data for. If you have a choice, the slower pistol powders will give you a bit more velocity.

If you are making el cheapo 50y plinking ammo, you might want to look into commercially made cast bullets (and/or copper plated cast bullets).

If you are going to load more than one round in your magazine you should use roundnose or flatpoint bullets. But if you single load (actually, you can also have a single round in the magazine plus one in the chamber), you can use any style of .308" bullet that you like.
 
30 30 is an assome bullet to cast for. In this calibre a cast boolit can do anything a jacketed bullet can. If you cast them yourself they cost about 40 or so per thousand. If you want me to make you some I will only charge 34.99 per hundred.
 
Yes, I agree $30.00/100 for a plinking bullet is kinda high. I've sold some Berry's .308 30-30 150gr CMJFN for $19.00/100 that work really well for plinking. The Copper coating keeps the leading down too. I also use 110 grain .308 30 cal Carbine round nose bullets for reduced loads that my wife can shoot. Hardly any recoil at all with those. For 50 yard plinking they are cheap bullets. I sold some I had at $17.00/100. I might even have some left.
Regards, Henry
 
A good cast bullet for normal velocities in the 30/30 will have a gas check and that takes the price up to beyond the $40 price/1000 to make yourself, not counting labour, molds, materials such as Lino(to harden), etc.... A good bullet (cast) should allow the reloader to at least match factory ballistics.
 
Sorry I live in a small apartment so no casting for me. Anyone know a good source for some cheap bullets let me know. I now have dies and a few pieces of brass and some unique as well as the lee trimming set up. Just need some case lube and some primers and bullets and I'm good. I will be getting everything tomorrow to try some out. But I need a source for some cheaper bullets for sure.
 
Google "the bullet barn". They make a bevel based 165 grain hard lead bullet that I use with pistol powders in 3030 and 303 savage. It will work with your Unique though I use W231 etc. most of the time, just cause I have it. The price for 200 bullets was $33 plus shipping so if you get a larger quantity it is cheaper per. I don't know about hunting with that bullet but they shoot paper nice.
 
John Y Cannuck said:
A test you can do to check your crimp is to try and twist the bullet with your fingers. If the crimp is right, and the case was properly sized, it should be near impossible, if it's too heavy, the case will buckle slightly, loosening neck tension, and the bullet will turn easily.
Click to expand...

Just keep your hands offa my neck, lol. You're strong.
 
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