so.my $99 gun is here! and i've done few things to it.
- Thread starter RUSTSPOT
- Start date
The Cocker
CGN Regular
- Location
- Fraser Valley B.C
Nice, the safety always looked out of place. If you can get rid of that spaces in the mag well you will be open to more mag options, and can convert it to 7.62x25
#1bcshooter
CGN Ultra frequent flyer
- Location
- North Of The DMZ (US border)
So why are so many people wanting to remove the safety ?
There's a spring inside the front finger portion of the hammer?
The rest of the mods look just fine and I'll probably plagarize your efforts to the extreme once my two cheapies arrive.... well, other than the welding closed of the safety hole. I was thinking of a nice decorative soviet star or some such to just cover it up. I have to admit that your welded and blued option looks darned fine though. Nicely done!
The rest of the mods look just fine and I'll probably plagarize your efforts to the extreme once my two cheapies arrive.... well, other than the welding closed of the safety hole. I was thinking of a nice decorative soviet star or some such to just cover it up. I have to admit that your welded and blued option looks darned fine though. Nicely done!
Yep, there's a heap of accounts of how spotty this safety is and how hard it is to use it.
For myself I'm thinking that this will be my IDPA shooter. For the "safety" I'm planning on using the hammer down on an empty chamber and rack the slide option as per how the Israeli forces teach. That'll easily prevent me accidentally putting a hole in one of my feet and still serve to ready the gun for shooting with reasonable speed.
Sorry, dude.
The theory sounded good, though.
I've got a buddy that took a pistol class with his Tok. He put about 700 rounds through it and by the end of the day was real good at working the awkward safety on his draw.
Oh yeah, gotta be 9mm or bigger for IDPA, too.
The theory sounded good, though.I've got a buddy that took a pistol class with his Tok. He put about 700 rounds through it and by the end of the day was real good at working the awkward safety on his draw.
Oh yeah, gotta be 9mm or bigger for IDPA, too.
Nice work - we need to see how many threads like this get started and possibly get them integrated into a "Sticky". There are going to be several hundred of these guns kicking around and there is lots of interest in improving them - from smoothing out the rough edges, to removing safeties and lanyard rings, improving sights, etc.
Good to know about the safety and how it's required for IPSC (and the SA thing too).
Good to know about the safety and how it's required for IPSC (and the SA thing too).
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My safety is not loose at all, its actually very tight and is easy to use...i think anyway. Besides that I was actually wanting to use this gun for matches but thought it was not to accurate.
I also thought that removing the safety was illegal. hmm shows what i know...
I also thought that removing the safety was illegal. hmm shows what i know...
Looks much better now. I was just wondering about one thing right from the start, as I was thinking of doing the same weeks ago... what about metal hardening?
From what I was told, welding crucial parts on a gun (like the frame or bolt) changes the metal structure and cancels the hardening process it underwent at the factory, thus making the metal brittle again. This could *possibly* result in the frame cracking while under load (ie. shooting) and pieces of it flying in your face.
Did you re-do the hardening procedure as well (heat to something like 1700F I believe + submerge in an oil bath)? I was just wondering... maybe it's not necessary, but I wouldn't chance it (I also have this tok with the fugly safety + a mig welder).
From what I was told, welding crucial parts on a gun (like the frame or bolt) changes the metal structure and cancels the hardening process it underwent at the factory, thus making the metal brittle again. This could *possibly* result in the frame cracking while under load (ie. shooting) and pieces of it flying in your face.
Did you re-do the hardening procedure as well (heat to something like 1700F I believe + submerge in an oil bath)? I was just wondering... maybe it's not necessary, but I wouldn't chance it (I also have this tok with the fugly safety + a mig welder).
i welded up the safety, beveled the magwell, and reblue it. i tried to skeletonized hammer but only to find there is a spring in it the hard way,so i had to weld the hole back up
some how i like the M213 better then the sig clone.
Have you shot it? How does it feed and fire?
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Not to make too fine a point of it, but the process that's lacking is tempering, not hardening.
When a high carbon content steel (e.g. tool steel) is allowed to cool from a welding temperature (glowing red) to room temperature rapidly (air cooled is enough, quenching is even worse), the grains of the steel tighten up and YES it can become brittle.
Gradually bringing the metal back up to a medium temperature (e.g. straw or blue steel) allows the molecular structure to relax without losing all of the original hardness, essentially toughening the steel.
Quenching the steel part at the desired temperature in either water or oil freezes the eased molecular structure in its current state.
HTHs
Thanks for the insight... I'm not a metal worker or anything, just an amateur DIY'er most of the time. I've never actually attempted to weld anything crucial on a firearm before for the reasons stated above.
Anyway, I believe that someone with extensive gunsmithing knowledge should chime in and give us the thumbs up or thumbs down on such an idea. Anything is feasible as far as metal on a firearm is concerned, provided that the procedure is done from A to Z (mainly for safety reasons, as getting shrapnel embedded in the face/eyes would really ruin the day, no matter how good the exploded gun looked before the "kaboom").
