The paint is peeling right off of the receiver on my new SS 10\22. I figure I will just strip it all off and paint it. What would be the best way to do it? Are their rotary tool attachments that work well? Or is it best to media blast it off? Second question would be what to paint it with? This is all new to me! Thanks for your time.
So the Finish is Peeling off of my brand new 10\22...
- Thread starter B
- Start date
- Location
- In the middle of gopher country
I would return it for warranty.
Same thing (I think) is happening to the inside of my reciever. Haven't even shot it when I noticed the coating is flaking off in a couple of spots just from working the action.
I kinda figured this was normal as the bolt would wear it off anyway??
Anyone else have this happen? Is it normal?
I kinda figured this was normal as the bolt would wear it off anyway??
Anyone else have this happen? Is it normal?
Converting a “blued” action 10/22 to “Stainless Steel”
Firstly, let me mention that the receiver on your 10/22 is not stainless steel but rather aluminum. In the past Ruger anodized their receivers, Nowadays they powder coat their aluminum receivers to obtain the “blued” look. If you have a blued receiver and would like to have it looking like a SS then it’s just a question of removing the powder coat/anodizing.
All newer 10/22’s have a polyester based powder coat, (not the higher grade epoxy based powder coat. If it was epoxy, you could not strip it.) If it is powder coated then you must use an ALUMINUM SAFE paint stripper. (aka Aircraft Stripper, BIX Tuff Job stripper, Chem-dip, ect.) . Remember… The one thing you really have to be careful of is the stripper. If it does not state on the can safe for all aluminum surfaces, it is not! I have seen badly pitted receivers from using the wrong stripper.
STRIPPING PROCESS
Step1:
Apply stripper and let sit 10-15 minutes. It may take a couple of applications and you will most likely have to do a little scrubbing with a fine steel wool/scotch brite pad.
Step2:
Wash with dish soap, hot water, and a stiff nylon brush (old toothbush)
Step3:
Polish to a shine with aluminum polish (I like to use Mother’s aluminum wheel polish)
***NOTE***
If you have an older model 10/22 then chance’s are your aluminum receiver has been anodized to achieve the “blued” look (I don't know the years when they were anodized but I know I have a pre-safety warning 1973 DSP that has the anodized receiver.) If it is anodized then you can use oven cleaner. And it will strip off the anodizing... but realize that it may also etch the aluminum. Which will require sanding/polishing to remove the etching.
Parts to be stripped (excusing barrel):
This is what you will need:
Here are some before and after pictures:
And VOILA...Final product:
Firstly, let me mention that the receiver on your 10/22 is not stainless steel but rather aluminum. In the past Ruger anodized their receivers, Nowadays they powder coat their aluminum receivers to obtain the “blued” look. If you have a blued receiver and would like to have it looking like a SS then it’s just a question of removing the powder coat/anodizing.
All newer 10/22’s have a polyester based powder coat, (not the higher grade epoxy based powder coat. If it was epoxy, you could not strip it.) If it is powder coated then you must use an ALUMINUM SAFE paint stripper. (aka Aircraft Stripper, BIX Tuff Job stripper, Chem-dip, ect.) . Remember… The one thing you really have to be careful of is the stripper. If it does not state on the can safe for all aluminum surfaces, it is not! I have seen badly pitted receivers from using the wrong stripper.
STRIPPING PROCESS
Step1:
Apply stripper and let sit 10-15 minutes. It may take a couple of applications and you will most likely have to do a little scrubbing with a fine steel wool/scotch brite pad.
Step2:
Wash with dish soap, hot water, and a stiff nylon brush (old toothbush)
Step3:
Polish to a shine with aluminum polish (I like to use Mother’s aluminum wheel polish)
***NOTE***
If you have an older model 10/22 then chance’s are your aluminum receiver has been anodized to achieve the “blued” look (I don't know the years when they were anodized but I know I have a pre-safety warning 1973 DSP that has the anodized receiver.) If it is anodized then you can use oven cleaner. And it will strip off the anodizing... but realize that it may also etch the aluminum. Which will require sanding/polishing to remove the etching.
Parts to be stripped (excusing barrel):
This is what you will need:
Here are some before and after pictures:
And VOILA...Final product:
Last edited:
captain2k_ca
CGN frequent flyer
- Location
- Lethbridge
Get it plated 
Mine(24kt Gold):
Mine(24kt Gold):
captain2k_ca
CGN frequent flyer
- Location
- Lethbridge
Sorry, never saw this post
Im honestly not sure if its aluminum or not?
So far its been really great...gold doesnt corrode very easily! I am bad for not cleaning my guns as often as I should...All I have done with it is to use some elbow grease and some carnuba wax. Keeps it clean and shiny
savage express
CGN Regular
- Location
- In a house built outside
"stainless steel"
Thanks alot for all this info on RUGER'S F.U.! And how to fix it. I've got a stainless model(barrel) the rest being that "stainless paint" ha! Took your advice on the stripper, and after searching half a dozen stores with out success. Found some at ACKLANDS - Aircraft paint stripper, areosol can $14.ish ea.
My ques. is will one of these cans be enough to do all of that crappy paint on one 10/22? Cause it comes in a $14 areosol can or a $50 pail.
I know there's not alot of parts, but if I have to buy two cans, I'd probably just buy the bucket.
Thanks for the help!!!
Thanks alot for all this info on RUGER'S F.U.! And how to fix it. I've got a stainless model(barrel) the rest being that "stainless paint" ha! Took your advice on the stripper, and after searching half a dozen stores with out success. Found some at ACKLANDS - Aircraft paint stripper, areosol can $14.ish ea.
My ques. is will one of these cans be enough to do all of that crappy paint on one 10/22? Cause it comes in a $14 areosol can or a $50 pail.
I know there's not alot of parts, but if I have to buy two cans, I'd probably just buy the bucket.
Thanks for the help!!!
The paint issue seems to be more of an issue in newer models. The paint on mine (1996) was a smooth paint and was very durable. I had some minor wear on some of the "higher wear" areas. The newer paint is matte finished and looks like some sort of dry baked on stuff.
savage express
CGN Regular
- Location
- In a house built outside
So I picked up the stripper, only $15.00 and she had most of her teeth except the front ones.HA! HA!
Anyways, so as I am taking the trigger group apart (for the first time) I get to the safety, start wiggeling and rotating the safety to pull it out, It came out but so did the spring and cap at about 3000fps. But thats OK because I will find it, I mean how hard can that be in a Machine shop some where around my lathe?
So be warned, when removing the safty on a 10/22 put a rag over top.
Anyways, so as I am taking the trigger group apart (for the first time) I get to the safety, start wiggeling and rotating the safety to pull it out, It came out but so did the spring and cap at about 3000fps. But thats OK because I will find it, I mean how hard can that be in a Machine shop some where around my lathe?
So be warned, when removing the safty on a 10/22 put a rag over top.
On this note, the exact same gun I had bought in 2005 did not have this problem
