So this happened today......

They have a brand new, Looks to be P1 Slide, at Zefarm under their parts list. $150. Not sure if that site is still active though. Worth a try if you want to go that route.

Cheers,

Ian
 
This is a well known Issue with wartime P3&. They really shouldn’t be fired. The flaw was fixed with post war models. Shooting any wartime p38 will be a risk.
 
I know I would be very upset if this had happened to me. But on the other hand it ‘went out’ doing what it was designed to do and not as a result of being dropped or chopped up by a zealous anti gunner. It also looks like it saw a lot of use.
 
Ken T2;14556377]I saw a Walther P-1 slide around 25 years ago that was broken on the left side only.

[
=polaris;14554449]Didn't one of the sponsors sell P1 slides a few years back? P1 slides are reinforced for that exact same reason, to prevent them from cracking. Saw quite a few cracked P38 slides.

=sail32;14558880]P-1 and P-38 locking blocks are another part that breaks.

=Smitsauce;14559060]They have a brand new, Looks to be P1 Slide, at Zefarm under their parts list. $150. Not sure if that site is still active though. Worth a try if you want to go that route.

The Walther P1 pistol is quite substantially redesigned as compared to the P38. And this is not only the aluminum alloy frame. The whole list of design alterations implemented to the P1 is as follows:

Al alloy frame (1957)
Phosphate coating of steel components instead of bluing
Starting with serial number 312,700-reinforced slide was adopted (Nov. 1967)
Reinforced disassembly lever (?)
Reinforced hammer
Starting with serial number 370,001:
-reinforced frame with a rectangular bolt
-reaming of the left front part of the slide additional slide recess for engaging slide release
-improved reinforced front and rear sights
Use of a two part barrel (exterior barrel with interior barrel tube):
- Shrink-fitted lining barrel secured by a pin (?)
- Shrink-fitted lining barrel secured by a narrow collar (September 1972)
- Shrink-fitted lining barrel secured by a wide collar (October 1974)
Cast trigger instead of metal sheet minting (?)
Three changes in firing pin design (?)
Installation of a spring at ejector (April 1971)
Different designs of and materials for falling locking block
Reinforced round level indicator


The reinforced slide for the P1 is measurably thicker than that for the P38 so I’m not sure if it would fit without any modification on the P38. The falling locking block is also slightly different and more robust than the P38.
 
I used to have a Walther P-38, AC 42, and I used Canadian issue 9mm in the 60's with no problem.

I bought a used P-1 off of a fellow CGN'er and had the locking lug crack and jam the pistol.

The broken and/or cracked locking lug seems to be common from google searches.
 
I bought a used P-1 off of a fellow CGN'er and had the locking lug crack and jam the pistol.The broken and/or cracked locking lug seems to be common from google searches.

Depends on the year of manufacture of the P1. Read my post #44. The locking blocks were redesigned and reinforced after around 1970 but I couldn't find the exact year. I guess that every Walther P1 produced after 1975 has all those design updates implemented and would be much safer than that produced earlier. I have a 1977 P1 and it has all of the improvements listed in #44 which I carefully checked. I have close to 1,500 rounds on mine:

a9MPtAL.jpg
 
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This is a well known Issue with wartime P3&. They really shouldn’t be fired. The flaw was fixed with post war models. Shooting any wartime p38 will be a risk.

Agree 100%. My byf44 has a slight "wrinkle" in the left side of the slide at the exact same spot; it stays in the safe now. I bought a P1 to use as a shooter and even if it does fail it less of a piece of history than my P38 is and won't be as big of a loss.

To the OP, glad you are safe.
 
The P-1 is a German Bundeswehr rework similar to the one in post # 49.

Reinforced slide, hex bolt and original locking bolt electric penciled to the pistols serial number.

I got lucky and got a replacement locking lug from a fellow CGN'er

The slide on mine is dated 10/82.
 
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The P-1 is a German Bundeswehr rework similar to the one in post # 49.
Reinforced slide, hex bolt and original locking bolt electric penciled to the pistols serial number.
I got lucky and got a replacement locking lug from a fellow CGN'er
The slide on mine is dated 10/82.

That locking block is a very solid chunk of steel. Can you tell me how did it exactly crack? Where was the path of the crack? After how many shots did your locking block give up? Did you shoot any "hot" ammo? Or reloaded ammo if you reload?
 
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