So what do I have here *updated more pics*

Ski911

Ski911

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I picked this up from a buddy who was in need of some quick cash.
I know precisely squat about milsurp stuff, so, would one of you kind veterans fill me in on what I bought.
I think I know it is an enfield smle?
Seems to be in very nice condition, and no rust I can see. The bore is bright and shinny with sharp rifling, the wood is excellent but I am thinking it isn't original.
Any ideas as to its value? Thanks for any info.

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What you have yourself is a sporterized Lee Enfield No1 Mk3 SMLE, made by Lithgow in Australia in the year 1941. She is chambered in the .303 British round, and should perform very well for you.

Those other markings tell more of a story, I just can't make them out at this time...
 
Ski911 said:
Is that because the barrel says 42 on it? is there supposed to be a number on the bolt that matches? I don't see one.
Click to expand...

Look on the back face of the bolt handle, see if that number matches the serial # on the receiver, just before the barrel. If it matches, that makes it more valuable, assuming someone wanted to restore it.

If the front sight is "bubba'd", or the receiver is drilled and tapped, it's worth about $75.00. If the front sight is intact, the receiver is not d&t'd for a scope mount, and the bolt serial# matches the receiver, then it's a candidate for restoration, and might, on a good day, fetch you about $150.00 to $175.00.
 
Smle

If the receiver was made in late 1941 and the barrel in early 1942, that would account for the two different dates.

This is probably a factory conversion. The ".303" and "2.222" refers to the bore diameter and the case length. Also, it has been proof fired at a civilian proof house. The "BNP" and "18.5 tons per square inch" are also civilian proofs. The 18.5 is not a North American measurement (18.5X2=37,000 PSI) but is a British measurement equal to about 42,000 or 43,000 pounds per square inch.

Many of these rifles were converted after WWII by English gun makers and gun shops. Parker Hale made a lot of them. You have not shown the front sight. Is there a stamped steel ramp on the base of the front sight? It might be marked with the maker's name.
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"BNP" means Birmingham Nitro-Proof. Brit Government owned, as I recall. Any milsurp rifle that was sold through England was required to be 'proofed' before it could be sold.
"...number on the bolt that matches..." Not any number on the barrel. As mentioned, the S/N on the back of the bolt handle and the receiver S/N. Wouldn't be terribly unusual for a '41 receiver to have a '42 barrel.
Check the headspace before you shoot it. Even if your buddy shot it regularly.
 
here are some more pics, the bolt number does match the barrel and receiver so the head spacing should be ok then right? The front sight looks wrong to me but you guys are the experts.... I don't see any extra holes for a scope mount. My friend had it for years and fired 3 shots, but always kept his stuff in great shape.

So what do I need for a "restoration"?


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The front sight is just fine. If there are holes for a scope mount, they'd be on the left side of the receiver. Assuming no holes: with all matching numbers, (with the matching barrel, the value increased a little, there), this is an excellent candidate for restoration.
You can get the details by searching louthepou's posts (see the restoration sticky, too), but in your case it means finding the original full military wood and the fittings, from the wrist forward.
 
For a resto you'll need a bit of stuff.

First wood. Now it looks like the butt on your sporter is an original, does it have the brass butt plate and original sling swivel mounted? If so, that end is pretty much complete...check the stock bolt for a stock bolt washer as well....stock bolt is the long bolt that attaches the butt to the reciever...works with no washer on most but it tightens it up. There was a spring like washer and a leather buffer.

The No1 smle's had 4 pieces of wood....butt, upper rear hand guard that goes behind the rear sight, upper front handguard and the stock itself which is the long lower piece that goes from the ring that says lithgow on it to basiclly the muzzle. Your butt looks original (no pun intended..lol) but matching the color is another thing.

From your picture you will need the metal parts. From back to front, a rear sight protector, protector nut, protector collar and screw.

Chect the inner band, it should have a screw and a spring there....yours most likely has the screw but some are mising the spring.

To hold the wood on, you will need the outer band (this is a hinged band), screw and sling swivel then moving to the front you need a nose cap, rear nose cap screw and nut (found in beded in the wood lots) and front nose cap screw and barrel stud and spring.

Some nose caps had a stacking swivel at the rear of it so if it has a tapped behind the bayonet lug you'll need a stacking swivel and screw but it is not essential....I have come accross several different nose caps, some with and some without.

What did I miss??

I am no expert, there are others on here with lots more eperiance than me...I have done two now and am patiently waiting for a parcel so I can complete my third sporter to original conversion...and I have the milsup people on CGN to thank for that....it is addicting so be careful..kinda like crack.

You can find parts in the EE every once in a while, marstar has some, trade ex has some....numrich in the states has some too......
 
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This is an Australian rifle and most of them were stocked in Queensland Maple or in Coachwood, although other woods were used, especially in War Two.

I would asume this to be Coachwood, as most Maple of any type which I have seen tends to be a lot lighter in colour.

Get onto one of the Aussie gun-nut websites. They still have a fair bit of SMLE wood floating around down there (built them into the 1950s) and often you can pick up a set.

One thing of note: when these rifles were made, all the wood on a given rifle was sawn and then carved from a single slab, so your best bet is to get your wood as a SET. It will be much easier to match colours up this way.

Another point: when a rifle went in to be rebuilt, the Aussies made every attempt to preserve the original butt. This is where they would stamp the entire history of the rifle since it was built, on the right side. My own Aussie rifle is a 1918, but it was rebuilt twice, in 1922 and then again in 1944, at which time it got an entire new set of forward wood, all 3 pieces, marked as made by Slazenger's and numbered to the original rifle. The butt, though, remains the original 1918 butt. This would look awful on rifles from another plant but, on an Aussie rifle, it is quite correct. Sure shows that the old girl has been around, too!

Hope this is of some help.
 
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I think I'll just sell it to someone who wants to restore it, I don't have time and money for it right now. I am going to do my best to make sure it won't get ruined of Bubba'd though as it would be a shame for this one not to be restored to it original military glory.
 
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