SocomII Kaboom!

Cyanide Ride

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Might as well beat the guys in the Black Rifles section by posting it in here first (I hope) :)

http://www.canadiangunnutz.com/forum/showthread.php?t=432402

And if you are too lazy to clicky link, here is the post:

Here is what happened to a friend of mine's SOCOM II Sunday :(

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Not being a Black rifle follower myself, opinions on this failure would be appreciated, too hot of a load I'm guessing? I am to understand this failure happened 1/2 way through the first mag? I have no more details on the incident then that.

FYI it is a 308 cal & other then some scrapped knuckles, the shooter is OK.

And of note:

Go toss this into the Main battle rifle forum. They'll be on it like pigs in s**t.

:)

Like i mentioned in that thread, that poor poor Vltor stock :(
 
I'd be interested to see closeups of the bolt lugs (both look sheared off to me) as well as closeups of the area on the receiver where the bolt lugs lock up against., particularly their bearing surfaces and detailed pics of any deformation/cracking.

Would like to know a bit about what type of ammunition (factory? surplus? handloads? if handloads what was the recepie and what are the brass preparation specifics), but at this point given that there appears to be no damage to the receiver I'm more interested in detailed photos of the fractured bolt lugs. Would also be interested in seeing if there is any barrel bulging apparant. Also photos confirming receiver bolt bearing surfaces are undamaged.

My opinion on figuring out what happened is to firstly try and determine if the bolt was fully closed when the round went off. If the bolt was fully closed it eliminates a whole lot of things and strongly suggest others. Careful inspection of the failed bolt lugs and the receiver lugs might offer some clues in this department.

Also, what are the markings on the bolt and what is the serial number range on the receiver?

Interested to see more....

Cheers,

Brobee
 
I would like to see a pic of that bolt's markings!

Was it an Alpha prefix bolt? If so it means it was cast and this would not surprise me.

If its a B or especially an F prefix (B= bar stock F= forged) it should have held up. I doubt it was an old recall bolt as Socoms are new manufacture.


From the July 03, 2007 draft of the Third Edition of M14 Rifle History and Development:

Bolt - Springfield Armory, Inc. M1A bolts are manufactured in the United States of America. The M1A bolts are typically marked 7790186-SA on the first line and A00030, B00048 or F00059 or similar number on the second line. They may have markings such as D and M3 on the rear end and A9 or B1 on the bottom surface. The letter A prefix for the number under 7790186-SA means the bolt was cast then finish machined. The letter B prefix for the number under 7790186-SA means the bolt was machined from bar stock. The letter F prefix for the number under 7790186-SA means the bolt is forged. Springfield Armory, Inc. began installing F prefix M1A bolts by no later than 2000.

See 1987 Springfield Armory, Inc. Recall Notice for additional M1A bolt markings. No M1A parts, including bolts, are made by metal injection molding. Around receiver serial number 165###, Springfield Armory, Inc. commercial manufacture factory installed bolts have letters and numerals with a taller and thinner font than the style found on USGI M14 bolts. A Springfield Armory, Inc. M1A bolt not subject to recall was tested for surface hardness. The result was 52 HRC, the same as a USGI HRT marked M14 bolt.

When I look at buying an M1A, I make damn sure it either has an F code bolt or a real GI one.
 
Wow, I almost bought one of those, I`m glad I stuck to a USGI walnut stock.

I doubt very much that this had anything to do with the stock. I've only fed my baby factory loads without a hitch ;)

The general census (without hearing further details from the actual owner) is poor reloads, bad primer, poor components (as mentioned above) or premature ignition/slam fire.
 
What does it mean if an SA bolt is marked 7790186-SA , with CC1 on the second line?

CC1 thats it? If you look below you see one with YG2 on the 2nd line so...its probably real GI. Picture please:D
In the meantime measure the font. If its real it will be 1/16 of an inch. Does it have a dimple from a proof punch?
You can also tell from the way the bolt lugs and the extractor are cut. Look closely at the pic you'll see the difference.
GI bolts are identified by the drawing # 7790185 or 7790186 with the manufacturer and heat lot stamped under that number. GI lettering is specified to be exactly 1/16 of an inch high. Along with the usual manufacturers (TRW, SA, HRT) if your bolt is marked 66118 under the drawing # it is also USGI (Winchester). GI bolts may or may not have a dimple from a pin punch.

The real ID problem is telling real SA bolts apart from Springfield Inc M1A bolts as they also use the drawing number 7790186 and stamp SA as the manufacturer. Usually they use larger font but i have seen some with lettering that was 1/16. On real SA bolts the "SA" can appear either after the drawing # on the same line (usually 7790185 bolts) or under it in front of the heat lot (7790186 bolts).

The way to ID the Sproingfield bolts if by the letter prefix under the drawing number. (A, B, F,)
All are real GI SA except the one on the right which is an F code Springfield
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I still haven't figured out how to post pics here... one day.

Mine looks exactly like the 2nd from the right 7790186 then SA CC1 on the second line.

Not at home right now so can't measure it...looks like real GI to me.
 
Wendy snuck into his house and sabatoged the gun. She's a witch and can shapeshift too. Sorry to hear about the gun but glad to hear no one hurt.
 
you seriously think the vltor is the culprit? :confused:
your walnut stuck will blow up like that if you ever get a kB!

Yer right, last thing at fault is the stock. Judging by new info it's looking like a faulty reloaded round caused the disaster... In which case someones out a very pricey rifle... As it's not warrantee-able :(
Dibbs on the cluster rail LOL
 
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