Sold please remove !!
- Thread starter gordo1953
- Start date
To see ifthe chamber is 'really clean' you should check with a borescope. It's hard to see carbon buildup from the chamber face, even with a light. It doesn't take much to cause rounds to stick. I used to clean after every outing too, but when I got a borescope I was un-pleasantly surprised.
But if your bolt isn't picking up the rim during normal cycling, maybe your extractor springs have weakened ? You said this prob developed over time . . .
But if your bolt isn't picking up the rim during normal cycling, maybe your extractor springs have weakened ? You said this prob developed over time . . .
As noted by others, the two "claws" extract a casing (or round) from the chamber. When a live round is extracted, sometimes the bullet may be engaged with the rifling and as a result difficult to withdraw from the chamber. The ejector is part of the breech bolt guide. When the bolt is pulled back over the guide, the exposed ejector causes the casing held by the extractor claws to be ejected. If the casing can't be extracted from the chamber, it's not possible to eject it.
It appears from a parts diagram that there are specific parts involved for the left and right extractors, including springs. The two extractor pins appear to be identical.
It's possible that if these parts are mixed up during installation, there may be difficulties with extraction.
Below is a parts diagram for the Winchester/Browning 52.
Below are the parts related to the extractors. Note there are different numbers for parts that may look like they're identical.
The left and right extractors.
The left and right extractor springs.
The extractor pin. There are two of them.
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Hey grauhenan , excellent intel. Thank you very much ... The springs are the only thing that I have not replaced . I just can't see it being the springs they both seem to have good tension ??? I will persevere down that path , as well as some other suggestions from fellow Nutters .
Gordo
Gordo
So, this may or may not be relevant to this discussion, but I have had personal experience with two rimfire firearms that have had similar problems. One was a 1950's vintage S&W 22LR revolver that was manufactured with notoriously tight chambers and the other was a BSA Model 12 Martini with a factory-reamed match chamber. The revolver would not fully seat any CCI or larger diameter cased ammo, only Federal or similar/smaller diameter cased ammo. Fortunately it shoots lights-out with cheap Federal blue-box HV and copper-washed bulk HV and ejects both flawlessly. My first few tries at hand-seating the larger rounds ended up with me mechanically persuading them to exit their respective chambers. The Martini chamber was large enough to snugly accept CCI and similar diameter cased ammo, but each round needed to be "cammed" into the chamber with generous pressure from the lever. The very positive force exerted by the Martini extractor/ejector never failed to kick them out, but it was very obvious that it was reluctantly. Again, fortuitously, that rifle shot it's tightest groups with el cheapo Federal blue box HV. Maybe a case of incompatible ammo?
. But I definitely agree, not all 22 ammo. is created equallyWhen you clean the chamber have you used a bronze brush on a short length of cleaning rod and put it in a drill and use lots of solvent like carb cleaner and really brush the chamber area well. I had the same problem and this worked .
You might check the "ramp" cut at the rear of the barrel. It is the cut that accommodates the RH
extractor. If the ramp is contaminated or otherwise distorted, it may not allow the extractor to
get in behind the rim of the case and catch it. Thus it will just slip back over the rim without
hooking it properly. Dave.
extractor. If the ramp is contaminated or otherwise distorted, it may not allow the extractor to
get in behind the rim of the case and catch it. Thus it will just slip back over the rim without
hooking it properly. Dave.
Have had a great many small and expensive parts go sailing off into the unknown, over the years.
I have had great luck with a foot long or so strip of magnet as used on an office white board or similar, dunno if the office supplies places still carry the stuff even, but if you can get some, you can sweep the area that the spring may have 'offed' too, and maybe save yourself the wait for a replacement.
Failing that, get one of the magnet sweepers from PAuto, and brush that around the room. Check after every couple strokes and work methodically!
I have had great luck with a foot long or so strip of magnet as used on an office white board or similar, dunno if the office supplies places still carry the stuff even, but if you can get some, you can sweep the area that the spring may have 'offed' too, and maybe save yourself the wait for a replacement.
Failing that, get one of the magnet sweepers from PAuto, and brush that around the room. Check after every couple strokes and work methodically!
Take your time. You might be well served to do without a power drill when it comes to cleaning the chamber.
