I think you will also need barrel-mounted scope rail if you free float your barrel. Groups are actually not too bad as is, so why bother. Occasionally I have one hole groups @ 20 yards with my accu-Savage MkII, but for any semi-auto your groups are at high end of things.
Some Rimfire questions answered
- Thread starter Epoxy7
- Start date
I think you will also need barrel-mounted scope rail if you free float your barrel. Groups are actually not too bad as is, so why bother. Occasionally I have one hole groups @ 20 yards with my accu-Savage MkII, but for any semi-auto your groups are at high end of things.
Yeah....I've shot 5 shot groups where the group was smaller than a hole from a single .22 shot............No, but seriously, all .22s favor certain ammo and hate others, just keep trying dif. ammo, it's the same as reloading to find the best load. The wax you talk about on the Lapua actually helps that ammo shoot well in cold conditions, i read that it is why Lapua and others are used so much in Biathalon.
The Trick
The trick is to find the highest quality ammo the gun likes,then weigh each round and sort by weight, then use a bald eagle rim thickness gauge and sort again so all cartridges have the same weight and rim thickness. Also use that special tool that a guy in the Ohio bench rest ass'c. developed to scrape the lead ring at the end of the chamber just before the lands and grooves.You have to scrape as often as every 3 rds on some guns. My anschutzes and walthers need little scraping depending on the ammo. Sometimes a dry bore mop between shots also helps. The scrape and mop was tested with .22 rimfire rail guns and proved very beneficial. I invite you to join me and see for yourself. It would be at dawn as there is usually less wind.
I haven't checked this thread for a while. Some interesting stuff. I suspect the trigger will be my first change with this rifle.
I'm actually happy with this rifle for a straight out of the box semi auto. As for the CZ, well I went for the Kimber SVT instead. So I do have a bolt action as well. It's not one or the other.
Mine shoots the Eagle 40 grain solids fairly well. But not as well as the Lapua Super club. POI is also different. After I get the SVT going I might resight the 10/22 for the Eagle ammo and use this rifle for groose hunting, plinking and just fun stuff.
I'd be interested in how my rifle shoots at 50 yards as well. Trying to find a day without wind is difficult and the indoor range is only 20 yards. Hopefully this summer I'll find a day or two without any wind.
As for changing the barrel. Maybe some day, but it's not high on my priority list right now.
Some good advice and suggestions. I may free float the barrel myself and change out the trigger. For now those are the only changes I can see in the near future. As for the scope. Well I have a ton of other scopes to buy first. I'll stick with the Burris on the 10/22. It's not perfect but the glass is nice.
I'm actually happy with this rifle for a straight out of the box semi auto. As for the CZ, well I went for the Kimber SVT instead. So I do have a bolt action as well. It's not one or the other.
Mine shoots the Eagle 40 grain solids fairly well. But not as well as the Lapua Super club. POI is also different. After I get the SVT going I might resight the 10/22 for the Eagle ammo and use this rifle for groose hunting, plinking and just fun stuff.
I'd be interested in how my rifle shoots at 50 yards as well. Trying to find a day without wind is difficult and the indoor range is only 20 yards. Hopefully this summer I'll find a day or two without any wind.
As for changing the barrel. Maybe some day, but it's not high on my priority list right now.
Some good advice and suggestions. I may free float the barrel myself and change out the trigger. For now those are the only changes I can see in the near future. As for the scope. Well I have a ton of other scopes to buy first. I'll stick with the Burris on the 10/22. It's not perfect but the glass is nice.
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The trick is to find the highest quality ammo the gun likes,then weigh each round and sort by weight, then use a bald eagle rim thickness gauge and sort again so all cartridges have the same weight and rim thickness. Also use that special tool that a guy in the Ohio bench rest ass'c. developed to scrape the lead ring at the end of the chamber just before the lands and grooves.You have to scrape as often as every 3 rds on some guns. My anschutzes and walthers need little scraping depending on the ammo. Sometimes a dry bore mop between shots also helps. The scrape and mop was tested with .22 rimfire rail guns and proved very beneficial. I invite you to join me and see for yourself. It would be at dawn as there is usually less wind.
All these tricks are not any secret in the quest for the best accuracy. Still no 1/16" - 10 shot groups at 100 yards with any ammo that these rifles really like. I still have not seen any groups posted???? Eagleye.
Agrred
OK; Three shot groups I can see!! I have seen and shot some pretty impressive 3 shot groups at 100, even a couple of 5-shot groups have been zingers, but when you have to put that extra 5 into the group, then it becomes a real test. Thanks for clarifying. FWIW, I doubt a rail gun, regardless of weight, could shoot a 10-shot group that small in rimfire chamberings. Too much likelihood of some small variant in the ammo, impossible to detect by weight or rim thickness, sabotaging you. Regards, Eagleye.
Has been done
When I was in OHIO a number of years ago there was a bench rest association that did 5 shot 100 yarders with an impossibly heavy rail gun - the barrel looked like a subway tunnel it was so big around you almost couldnt see the teeny bore I saw the results - one .22 cal hole - to prove there was more than one round - there was a spinning disc ( as usual ) - but yes the greater the number of rounds, the greater the hole size - but still teeny one holers
When I was in OHIO a number of years ago there was a bench rest association that did 5 shot 100 yarders with an impossibly heavy rail gun - the barrel looked like a subway tunnel it was so big around you almost couldnt see the teeny bore
I saw the results - one .22 cal hole - to prove there was more than one round - there was a spinning disc ( as usual ) - but yes the greater the number of rounds, the greater the hole size - but still teeny one holers Bringing back an old thread. I had planned to finish this one much earlier, but I'll add to it now.
So the Ruger 10/22 had a trigger job done (A year and a half ago actually), I also had the Ruger rail replaced with a Leupold one piece, and the scope was changed for a 4-14x 44mm Falcon Menace with ML-16 reticle.
The differences: The trigger now makes shooting this rifle a real joy. It was work before.
The scope base: I'm not sure if it made any difference, the Ruger rail seemd solid on my rifle.
The scope: The crosshair at 14x starts to get a bit too big but it's still useable. The parallax adjustment makes a huge difference with accuracy. Precision seems to have improved a very tiny bit. But that was always fairly good for a semi auto.
I'm sorry the pictures suck, but here goes.
The rifle with the scope and base. Other than a trigger job and the rail replacement, the rifle is a stock K10/22T.
Accuracy: Note: I couldn't do this before with this rifle. The degree of the shot going around the target used to be much greater. 4 middle targets. One shot each, 20 yards indoors.
So the Ruger 10/22 had a trigger job done (A year and a half ago actually), I also had the Ruger rail replaced with a Leupold one piece, and the scope was changed for a 4-14x 44mm Falcon Menace with ML-16 reticle.
The differences: The trigger now makes shooting this rifle a real joy. It was work before.
The scope base: I'm not sure if it made any difference, the Ruger rail seemd solid on my rifle.
The scope: The crosshair at 14x starts to get a bit too big but it's still useable. The parallax adjustment makes a huge difference with accuracy. Precision seems to have improved a very tiny bit. But that was always fairly good for a semi auto.
I'm sorry the pictures suck, but here goes.
The rifle with the scope and base. Other than a trigger job and the rail replacement, the rifle is a stock K10/22T.
Accuracy: Note: I couldn't do this before with this rifle. The degree of the shot going around the target used to be much greater. 4 middle targets. One shot each, 20 yards indoors.
The main thing to note from this seems to be that the scope with rimfire parralax ranges greatly increases accuracy. The groups are slightly smaller, but that's probably just from the trigger being better (The group pictures I have are really poor. They aren't good enough to see the comparison. I'll try to get some more later). The accuracy though was a huge difference from the Centerfire scope (Burris Fullfield II).
I have a 20" GM barrel around, but frankly I'm very happy with how this rifle shoots. At this time I don't see any need to change out the stock bull barrel. Maybe I'll use the GM barrel for a build in the future. My Ruger is fairly stock with minimal money put into improvements. There doesn't appear to be much point in putting huge amounts of money into this rifle since it shoots nicely as is.
I have a 20" GM barrel around, but frankly I'm very happy with how this rifle shoots. At this time I don't see any need to change out the stock bull barrel. Maybe I'll use the GM barrel for a build in the future. My Ruger is fairly stock with minimal money put into improvements. There doesn't appear to be much point in putting huge amounts of money into this rifle since it shoots nicely as is.
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