Some Savage 340 trivia

what are you using for a wrench on the barrel nut?

I got one that was converted to 30-30AI that is going to be a project and become a 357 Herrett, the 30-30AI was a mistake as those don't really work in the mags
 
The factory nuts seem to be on quite tight. I have made inserts which wrap around and clamp. Same setup I've used for AR barrel nuts.
Here is a trick for the Savage barrel nuts which are grooved. (Some late 340 aren't).
Select a large open end wrench that just slips over the nut. Cut two pieces of brazing rod. Apply the wrench to the nut, then slip the rods into opposing grooves so that the wrench jams on them. This will work to install a barrel nut; it might work to remove one, depending on how solidly the nut is in place.
 
tiriaq said:
The factory nuts seem to be on quite tight. I have made inserts which wrap around and clamp. Same setup I've used for AR barrel nuts.
Here is a trick for the Savage barrel nuts which are grooved. (Some late 340 aren't).
Select a large open end wrench that just slips over the nut. Cut two pieces of brazing rod. Apply the wrench to the nut, then slip the rods into opposing grooves so that the wrench jams on them. This will work to install a barrel nut; it might work to remove one, depending on how solidly the nut is in place.
Click to expand...

thanks for the tip, I was looking at building something to fit the nut, 3/16" rods fit the grooves in the nut perfectly
 
I did make a dedicated 110 barrel nut fixture. Took a chunk of steel and very carefully scribed a circle on it. Drilled holes on the circumference where four of the grooves would be. Set the thing up on the lathe, and bored out a hole that would just slide over the nut. The drilled holes became half holes. To use, place on the nut, then tap pins into the half holes and nut grooves.
 
tiriaq said:
I did make a dedicated 110 barrel nut fixture. Took a chunk of steel and very carefully scribed a circle on it. Drilled holes on the circumference where four of the grooves would be. Set the thing up on the lathe, and bored out a hole that would just slide over the nut. The drilled holes became half holes. To use, place on the nut, then tap pins into the half holes and nut grooves.
Click to expand...

that is exactly what I was planning to do, except I was going to spot weld in 4 pins, I will need to look at my notes but I calculated the circle is just under 1.3" and the hole spacing for 4 pins is aprox 0.920", I also calculate the spacing based on an equilateral triangle and 3 pins, or 6 pins. Going to take some careful layout, so its a project for when I have the time.
 
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Hi all
Some very good suggestions for barrel nut removal. I have a nice variety of these rifles, I have them in every caliber except .223. I use my .222 and .22 Hornet for gophers, accurate and devastating to say the least.
Things I have found in buying these rifles.
Best selection for parts is Numrich in the USA. This includes Magazines
Savage 340C’s and later were all drilled and tapped for the weaver side scope mount. The Stevens 322 and 325 series and the Savage 340, 340A and Early 340B’s were not. If you have one of the aforementioned rifles that are drilled and tapped, this was normally done by a gunsmith or the owner. You can usually tell by the screw holes being cut in the lettering on the left side of the receiver.
I’ve seen a few of these rifles being rebarreled and sold at gun shows, I see one for sale on CGN in 25-35. The conversions I’ve seen include 38-55(single shot only) and 32 Special. These were based on the 30-30 action. The barrel conversion is generally not the problem especially if you’re happy with a single shot. The problem is how well they feed from the mag.
Savage also provided a lot of these rifles to box stores in the States, I have one marked Coast to Coast, as well as CIL here in Canada. The CIL 830 is the “Canadian” version, I’ve found them in 30-30 and .222 Rem. If anyone has found them in the other 3 calibers, .22 Hornet, .225 Win and .223 Rem I’d love to hear from you, just to update my info. The only series I’ve found having all 5 Calibers is the Savage 340 Series E.
cheers
 
Received the new replacement extractor from GPC yesterday.
Installed it today, reassembled the bolt, turned in the barrel and tightened the barrel nut. Assembled the rifle, its ready to test fire.
No sights, the NOS barrel has no holes or dovetail.
Two options (open rear sight isn't one because I can't use one). Install a front sight and find a rear aperture sight, or, drill and tap the receiver, install a Weaver #1 base and a side mounted scope. I have a 4 power scope in Weaver side mount rings ready to go. Probably go this route.
 
tiriaq said:
Received the new replacement extractor from GPC yesterday.
Installed it today, reassembled the bolt, turned in the barrel and tightened the barrel nut. Assembled the rifle, its ready to test fire.
No sights, the NOS barrel has no holes or dovetail.
Two options (open rear sight isn't one because I can't use one). Install a front sight and find a rear aperture sight, or, drill and tap the receiver, install a Weaver #1 base and a side mounted scope. I have a 4 power scope in Weaver side mount rings ready to go. Probably go this route.
Click to expand...

Go with the receiver d&t, mount the scope and smile. At our age, iron sights just don't seem to cut it anymore. Sad, because I was very good at offhand shots out to 150 yards with irons back in the day. Even glasses don't help much.
 
Drilled and tapped the receiver for the Weaver #1 base this afternoon. I use a Forster jig; have had it for years, have used it for many jobs.

This base requires four holes located on the left hand side of the receiver, along the waterline. The two front holes were straightforward. The rear two were a bit more challenging - the overarm jig which carries the bushings for the drill and tap could not clear the trigger housing, which is a semipermanent installation on the receiver. So, I installed the base using the front holes, and carefully centerpunched the positions of the two rear holes, using the holes in the base as guides. Worked well. All 4 holes drilled and tapped, properly located. No holes are out of line or crooked, and no taps were broken. All that remains now is to relieve the stock slightly to clear the bottom of the base.

I've never enjoyed drilling and tapping receivers or barrels. One of those jobs where the setup needs to be checked and rechecked before turning on the drill press.
 
tiriaq said:
Drilled and tapped the receiver for the Weaver #1 base this afternoon. I use a Forster jig; have had it for years, have used it for many jobs.

This base requires four holes located on the left hand side of the receiver, along the waterline. The two front holes were straightforward. The rear two were a bit more challenging - the overarm jig which carries the bushings for the drill and tap could not clear the trigger housing, which is a semipermanent installation on the receiver. So, I installed the base using the front holes, and carefully centerpunched the positions of the two rear holes, using the holes in the base as guides. Worked well. All 4 holes drilled and tapped, properly located. No holes are out of line or crooked, and no taps were broken. All that remains now is to relieve the stock slightly to clear the bottom of the base.

I've never enjoyed drilling and tapping receivers or barrels. One of those jobs where the setup needs to be checked and rechecked before turning on the drill press.
Click to expand...

It's not to bad with a Mill/drill, center drill with a very small tip to start or a proper jig, made for the job, still using the center drill for rigidity of course.

I had an adjustable jig/trammel set up that worked really well on different diameter receivers. It was set up for the spacing on differen Weaver bases and was, I believe, made by Weaver back in the sixties.

I made the "BIG MISTAKE" of loaning it to a fellow that haed been a friend for years. Somehow, he "LOST IT" during a move he did two years later.

I hope he rots in hell. I really miss that jig and hopefully he reads this.
 
The Forster jig has a "stop block" against which the overarm can be positioned. It can then be moved a measured amount from the stop block to set up for additional holes. I have a set of gauge blocks which work really well for this. Without the gauge blocks, a caliper can be used to accurately measure the distance that the overarm must be moved.
 
Got the scope mounted, ready for test firing.
The scope and rings are from an auction job lot. Came with one that I wanted. It is a Tasco. Thought it was a 4x; turns out it is a 2 1/2 which is better for Ontario woodlands. Should be a perfectly good utility rifle.
 
IMHO, the 340 Savage rifles are the Rodney Dangerfields of the brand.

They're very strong, usually very accurate and handy as hell.

I've sold off all of mine and have a few regrets, especially the 30-30Win, which I could load much hotter than for a model 94, right on up there with the Mod 99 levers. Not only that, pointed bullets could be used without concern.

Lovely little rifles and most that have them, keep them until the last days of their hunting careers.
 
reloading for a 340 in 22 hornet
anyone doing it.?
I am having trouble getting the rounds to feed from the magazine. Pointed bullets just do not seem to work regardless of how deep I seat the bullet.
Semi spitzer type bullets are the only ones I can get to work.
Just wondering if others have had this problem
 
So I did a bit of a search lately on Savage/Stevens rifles in hopes of finding one in 30-30 Win and it seems that prices went up as far as 650$ for 222Rem and even more for 22 Hornet if theres one available, and you have to add shipping on top of that.Just saying....
 
kaskad said:
So I did a bit of a search lately on Savage/Stevens rifles in hopes of finding one in 30-30 Win and it seems that prices went up as far as 650$ for 222Rem and even more for 22 Hornet if theres one available, and you have to add shipping on top of that.Just saying....
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I sold a lovely 340 in 22 Hornet last spring in Chiliwack for $350. They're not an easy sell.

You just aren't looking in the right places or hard enough.

I see 340s for sale at almost every gunshow in 30-30Win, in VG or better condition in that same $350 range.
 
bearhunter said:
I sold a lovely 340 in 22 Hornet last spring in Chiliwack for $350. They're not an easy sell.

You just aren't looking in the right places or hard enough.

I see 340s for sale at almost every gunshow in 30-30Win, in VG or better condition in that same $350 range.
Click to expand...

I hear ya but in GTA in Ontario prices run at around 500$ for 30-30 and it is often in less than good condition. Gun shows in my are are plenty but most items are overpriced, personally I see only a few vendors that have reasonable prices. Most of good deals are gone before the doors are open… There is a few shows coming in two weeks so wish me luck mate.
 
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