Some work on a 1911
- Thread starter misanthropist
- Start date
Thanks - but actually I wasn't quite as switched on when I did the front strap work as I should have been and it is not perfectly straight. I later realized that the bar stock I'd used as a guide to start the cuts was a little warped (to my immense annoyance).
But it's my own gun so it's okay if I make a cosmetic goof. If I was doing this to someone else's gun I would be having a seizure right now.
But it's my own gun so it's okay if I make a cosmetic goof. If I was doing this to someone else's gun I would be having a seizure right now.
FightingIrish
Regular
- Location
- Central Alberta
Wait, lemme get this straight... you did those serrations and checkering yourself? That's dedication. I wouldn't have the patience. Nice work.
I would be the first to admit it is a little tedious but I really love working on 1911s.
Thanks but I'm comfortable with bar stock...I just happened to unobservantly grab a piece that was slightly warped. I used a different chunk of bar stock for the slide (for obvious reasons).
Clobbersauras
CGN Ultra frequent flyer
- Location
- Waaay out west.
Pure artwork.
Hand filed, perfectly straight serrations on your 1911?
I put skateboard tape on the slide of my Glock and I couldn't get it straight!
Hand filed, perfectly straight serrations on your 1911?
I put skateboard tape on the slide of my Glock and I couldn't get it straight!
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Thanks guys...really glad people are getting something out of this.
Tools are simple:
20 LPI checkering file
Various abrasives from a 1/2 round mill bastard file all the way to some 0000 emery paper and a glass plate (for the flats of the slide)
A vise
A sharpie
several pieces of flat bar stock that are always kicking around my shop
one piece of not as flat as I thought it was bar stock
And to blend the curves where I can, a belt sander/grinder with belts ranging from about 200 grit on up to a 1/2 micron belt just in case (I don't use that one much but a 9 micron gives a nice finish).
In total, minus the belt grinder, maybe a hundred bucks worth of stuff. The machine was a $40 sale purchase at CT about four years ago and has about 80 hours on it and is still, amazingly, totally fine. I've done knives and stuff on it a hundred times, including a monster straight out of O1 bar stock when I first bought the thing and decided I wanted to know if I'd enjoy owning a Busse Battle Mistress or similar.
I don't have any "fully completed" pics but you get the idea. It's got about 13" of heavy razor blade on it...man, chops like crazy. Full convex grind front to back. Anyway the grinder seems difficult to kill.
Tools are simple:
20 LPI checkering file
Various abrasives from a 1/2 round mill bastard file all the way to some 0000 emery paper and a glass plate (for the flats of the slide)
A vise
A sharpie
several pieces of flat bar stock that are always kicking around my shop
one piece of not as flat as I thought it was bar stock
And to blend the curves where I can, a belt sander/grinder with belts ranging from about 200 grit on up to a 1/2 micron belt just in case (I don't use that one much but a 9 micron gives a nice finish).
In total, minus the belt grinder, maybe a hundred bucks worth of stuff. The machine was a $40 sale purchase at CT about four years ago and has about 80 hours on it and is still, amazingly, totally fine. I've done knives and stuff on it a hundred times, including a monster straight out of O1 bar stock when I first bought the thing and decided I wanted to know if I'd enjoy owning a Busse Battle Mistress or similar.
I don't have any "fully completed" pics but you get the idea. It's got about 13" of heavy razor blade on it...man, chops like crazy. Full convex grind front to back. Anyway the grinder seems difficult to kill.
Wow - even I wouldn't try shaving with that!
You did a great job on the checkering and it doesn't look crooked in your pics to my eye.
How do you like the 20 lpi? I have a 25 lpi file and a 40 lpi file (40 lpi for fine serrations on slide, controls, etc). I quite like the 25 lpi on the front strap and MSH (see hand checkered strap in pic below) , but am considering using a coarser 20 lpi file for my next build for a bit more positive grip on more of a target pistol setup.
You did a great job on the checkering and it doesn't look crooked in your pics to my eye.
How do you like the 20 lpi? I have a 25 lpi file and a 40 lpi file (40 lpi for fine serrations on slide, controls, etc). I quite like the 25 lpi on the front strap and MSH (see hand checkered strap in pic below) , but am considering using a coarser 20 lpi file for my next build for a bit more positive grip on more of a target pistol setup.
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20 doesn't bother me but after two decades of callous-building work environments, my hands are like permanently attached elk skin work gloves...I could probably cut 10 LPI checkering, point them hard with a needle file, and never notice the difference so to be honest I'm the wrong guy to ask. I have to rub stuff on my face to feel the texture.
I think 25 is a good midrange cut that's grippy but doesn't wreck your clothes. That's the only complaint I have ever had about the coarser checkering...it's nice and grippy but it does put a bit of a beating on fabric if that's a concern. For most people in Canada, I guess it's probably a non-issue.
Love the checkering on the front strap.
I think 25 is a good midrange cut that's grippy but doesn't wreck your clothes. That's the only complaint I have ever had about the coarser checkering...it's nice and grippy but it does put a bit of a beating on fabric if that's a concern. For most people in Canada, I guess it's probably a non-issue.
Love the checkering on the front strap.
Finally got back to work on this thing. Sorted out the slightly off-kilter checkering through careful filing.
Message to anyone who's going to checker their own gun: it's WAY easier to pay attention at the beginning than clean it up afterwards...fixing it involves carefully torquing the file as you go to cut harder on one side at the top of the checkering, and on the other side at the bottom. Anyway that's how you fix it, so that's done. I am pretty much done with the checkering and serrations now, partly because they're about done and partly because checkering is TEDIOUS.
Also fitted the thumb safety. The fit is very nice; hard to work it in or out but zero drag moving it up and down. And of course you can see the contouring at the back where it intersects with the frame and grip safety, which is total overkill considering it's ordinarily cocked and locked. Purely an attention-to-detail thing. I like the parts fitted so that you can barely feel a fingernail drag across the edges.
What next? Hmm. Trigger was already fitted once. Most of the work is done on the frame. Internal parts all fit pretty well together. Springs are fresh. Guess I should probably start looking at boxing it up and sending it off to Dark for Novak cuts and a refinish.
Message to anyone who's going to checker their own gun: it's WAY easier to pay attention at the beginning than clean it up afterwards...fixing it involves carefully torquing the file as you go to cut harder on one side at the top of the checkering, and on the other side at the bottom. Anyway that's how you fix it, so that's done. I am pretty much done with the checkering and serrations now, partly because they're about done and partly because checkering is TEDIOUS.
Also fitted the thumb safety. The fit is very nice; hard to work it in or out but zero drag moving it up and down. And of course you can see the contouring at the back where it intersects with the frame and grip safety, which is total overkill considering it's ordinarily cocked and locked. Purely an attention-to-detail thing. I like the parts fitted so that you can barely feel a fingernail drag across the edges.
What next? Hmm. Trigger was already fitted once. Most of the work is done on the frame. Internal parts all fit pretty well together. Springs are fresh. Guess I should probably start looking at boxing it up and sending it off to Dark for Novak cuts and a refinish.
Oh, of course...the dehorn. Jesus, where is my head at?
Clobbersauras
CGN Ultra frequent flyer
- Location
- Waaay out west.
Thanks for the update. What grips are you going to use?
Oh...I have a set in mind. My wife gave me a set of brazillian rosewood grips with a hilariously tacky hissing cobra carved into them.
Clobbersauras
CGN Ultra frequent flyer
- Location
- Waaay out west.
Hahaha, perfect!
Slide to frame fit...maybe a slight improvement even over a factory Norinco fit!
Quick reassembly and a preview of the gun before it gets a mild melt and refinish. Almost wish I could keep it 2-tone like this. Included the aforementioned grips...RAH!
Feels great now...trigger is crisp, maybe 4 pounds, zero creep - does not move perceptibly prior to break. Safeties totally positive and thumb safety is "clunky", just the way I like. Very little vertical play on the trigger at rest.
Will probably make some minor adjustments this week but very little to go.
You know you got the slide right when you can tell the time on your watch in the reflection. This pic taken a couple of minutes after 9, I guess.
Am very much looking forward to the last few steps, then getting it off to Dark International for the Novak cuts and bluing.
Feels great now...trigger is crisp, maybe 4 pounds, zero creep - does not move perceptibly prior to break. Safeties totally positive and thumb safety is "clunky", just the way I like. Very little vertical play on the trigger at rest.
Will probably make some minor adjustments this week but very little to go.
You know you got the slide right when you can tell the time on your watch in the reflection. This pic taken a couple of minutes after 9, I guess.
Am very much looking forward to the last few steps, then getting it off to Dark International for the Novak cuts and bluing.
