Source for Good Silver Solder

angrygopher said:
LOL 6013, that's what farmers hack bad welds together with and call them good...
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Yeah, and???...

Pretty much doesn't matter what gets used by hacks, if someone can produce a good result that works for its intended purpose.

Seems to me, if it runs easy enough for a farmer to get a decent weld out of with no real warm up or recent practice, it ought to really perform in the hands of a fella that is on his game, no?

I kinda doubt anyone that manages to break a 60ksi weld, wasn't gonna do the same breakage on an otherwise identical 70 or 80ksi weld too.

Worked with guys that could make a stick weld look like good TIG, and at least one guy that could make a simple TIG job into scrap metal on a regular enough basis. Good end results count, not much else.
 
tiriaq said:
The horror! I can imagine the clouds of asbestos..
When my younger brother was in grade school, they used an asbestos based putty for modelling.

There is also heat control paste that can be applied to the bolt parts not involved in the actual silver brazing.
I have never had a handle come off that I installed using the method described above. Knock on wood. I prefer the paste to wire or sheet silver solder. Sheet is better than wire, if that is what is available. Just snip a little piece to fit. But having really good flux is critical.

There are those who TIG weld handles on. I have no experience with this.

Personally, I would not remove a factory 700 handle just to change the style. Easy enough to install an extended knob.

The handles I've installed have been either repairs, rebuilds, or new handles being installed on PT&G bodies. A PT&G body with a Holland style extended handle is excellent.
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Yep - when we were in grade school, they used to pass around a sample of asbestos. You could bend it and see the beautiful cloud of sparkling dust. Almost as much fun as passing the vial of mercury around. You placed the stuff in your hand and watched that sparkling little jewel of metal behave like a liquid in your hand. Then, we went home to practice with our pellet guns and placed a pinch of pellets in our cheeks so they would be within easy reach. After supper, we'd be told to go empty the garbage into the recycled cyanide barrels everyone used for garbage cans. Ahhh, the good ol' days. But, we all survived.
 
A&Shuntr said:
I resemble that remark

I've TIG welded coke cans for sport, and on the other hand made some other simple TIG jobs look like bubble gum welding LOL
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You can't possibly be that bad.

The individual in my past, the best thing he ever did was quit his job. No sense of Craft at all, and no patience when things were not working, he'd just get madder and push harder.

Not a great place to be, when working on 1/2 million dollar parts!
 
Spoken by someone without knowledge or skills. 6013 is the choice because of it's characteristics and is many times stronger than any type of solder. As a professional smith I have no problems and the finish is factory polished when done.
 
I buy mine from Praxair which is the local welding supply store. The silver solder which is most common here is Braze 450 which stands for 45% silver (argent) and 55% copper. I believe it has the lowest melting temperature of the various high strength silver / copper alloys. (1140 F, I think ) If you are using the wire form of silver solder, I find I get more rapid and complete flowing and penetration by sitting a small piece on top of the joint before heating (flux the wire also). I think when I try to heat first then add silver solder, there is often a thin layer of oxide at the seam in spite of fluxing the area

cheers mooncoon
 
angrygopher said:
Yes, I just want to install a stud in my bolt and solder it in as per the knob manufacturers instructions. This is the knob.
https://www.brownells.com/rifle-par...b-sku100003078-24449-50589.aspx?sku=100003078
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Your referenced TactiKool knob is the bastardization of the industry w/ a 5/16"-18tpi application.

The industry standard is 5/16"-24tpi.

If you insist after 4 pages of misleading information-
You will need a vent hole/port prior to your fluxing & heating said handle/insert or you will be bewildered by physics.

Take some measurements from the bolt/handle/receiver so you won't be completely in the dark when the bolt handle falls off the bolt body.

Good Luck
 
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