Source for hammer spring / Hawes (Armi San Paolo) Colt 1851 Navy repro.

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pacobillie

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I just bought this revolver on the EE from an estate. It is about 40 years old. Imported by Hawes. Made in Italy. It is a reproduction of a Colt 1851 Navy cap'n ball revolver. Although in good condition, the hammer spring appears weak and about 40% of the time, it takes two strikes for the primer to go off. There is also significant hammer rebound, resulting in mangled primers jamming the hammer or cylinder. Does anyone know of a Canadian source to procure a stiffer hammer spring?

There is a "DGG" proof mark stamped under the barrel, indicating that is was made by Armi San Paolo, now known as Euroarms. Would a Uberti or Pietta spring fit?
 
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You could put a WTB ad in the EE. Maybe you'll find one.
Or just go to dixiegun.com, and order one. US$5.95.
 
you might think about whether there is a way of adding tension to the existing spring. At least some handguns have a screw through the forward butt strap that as you screw it in , pushes the mainspring back and forces it in to a tighter arc during cocking the hammer. The screw if present should be fairly close to the base end of the spring

cheers mooncoon
 
A properly made spring should not go soft. If a person was to go through the tempering process, they could increase the tension by giving it more curvature (called preload) but the odds of drawing the temper incorrectly and breaking it or leaving it too soft are very high unless said person has a high temperature thermometer and experience

cheers mooncoon
 
Dis a little research and saw suggestions that a spring for a current Colt SAA can be used, although it may entail some fitting. I might try that as they are readily available locally.
 
Be sure you're using the right caps too. I found that typically when it fires on the second hit consistently that it's due to the wrong size cap. The primer in the end of the cap MUST be on contact with the rim of the nipple or it'll often take the first hit to seat the cap fully then the second ignites the compound from a good pinch between the hammer and the nipple. This "pinch" is essential to cause ignition.

It's so important that I use a little push stick to press the caps on more firmly than I can with my thumb to ensure that they are correctly seated. If you take up this idea of a push stick be sure you hold the gun so your fingers are not in front of the cylinder while pressing the caps onto the nipples. They SHOULDN'T ignite simply from smooth pressure. But you don't want to find out the hard way that it can happen.

Hammer rebound on these things is normal. As long as it's not so much that it advances the cylinder you're OK... :)
 
Closing the loop on this. I ended up ordering replacement parts (barrel wedge, main spring and a set of new nipples) made for an original 1851 Colt Navy. They fit right in, without need for any mods or fitting. Supplier is Deer Creek Products from Indiana. The order was delivered to my mail box within 7 days. Shipping cost was extremely reasonable.
 
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