twoicebergs
Regular
As a lefty on somewhat of a budget finding a good holster is difficult. Some of you may have seen my OWB Kydex conversion to a drop holster. They worked, but were ugly and did rub the finish on the points of the gun. Here is the latest, a copy of the CR Speed WSM II that I picked up from airsoftdepot in Canada for $65. No one knew if the conversion would work, but I suspected it would. Upon receiving it I compared it to the original and all the hard points were the same, so I followed the same procedure used to convert the original CR Speed holster.
So obviously you need to take it apart and drill the holes all the way through the frame. Use a bit that will not damage the threaded insert. There are 3 holes, but you will only use the lower 2 as the mount will not fit to the highest one as it will hit the locking lever. (the drill bit is for illustration only in hole 1). This change of position will move the attachment point further down the hanger rod.
Once drilled it will look like this on the other side. You will need to use a larger bit on this side, but do not drill into traded insert. You have about 3/8" (1/2 the mount) before you hit the insert. You will also need to get 45-50 mm cap bolts if you want to reach the insert with a spacer in place. You will also need to trim a portion of the barrel support where the mount attaches. The lock still stays on the side, now toward the body. Yes, it is a bit of a pain to lock it, but it may actually be safer since you can not accidently unknock it. It still has fairly good hold with the lock off.
Flipping the parts for the hanger to the other side. If you noticed I cut off the extra length that I will not need. You can actually sit down with the gun in the holster. If you have ever been in a small lounge with many gunslingers, it may not be practical to de-gun when taking a short break.
The fit and hold is great, lock on or off. To my surprise the conversion between 2 of my guns is very quick, less than a minute. The barrel stop moves about 1/2" and you remove the trigger side insert for the M&P 9. The Girsan only uses one small side shim.
M&P before the trim job.
This really allows the Girsan to sparkle!
So obviously you need to take it apart and drill the holes all the way through the frame. Use a bit that will not damage the threaded insert. There are 3 holes, but you will only use the lower 2 as the mount will not fit to the highest one as it will hit the locking lever. (the drill bit is for illustration only in hole 1). This change of position will move the attachment point further down the hanger rod.
Once drilled it will look like this on the other side. You will need to use a larger bit on this side, but do not drill into traded insert. You have about 3/8" (1/2 the mount) before you hit the insert. You will also need to get 45-50 mm cap bolts if you want to reach the insert with a spacer in place. You will also need to trim a portion of the barrel support where the mount attaches. The lock still stays on the side, now toward the body. Yes, it is a bit of a pain to lock it, but it may actually be safer since you can not accidently unknock it. It still has fairly good hold with the lock off.
Flipping the parts for the hanger to the other side. If you noticed I cut off the extra length that I will not need. You can actually sit down with the gun in the holster. If you have ever been in a small lounge with many gunslingers, it may not be practical to de-gun when taking a short break.
The fit and hold is great, lock on or off. To my surprise the conversion between 2 of my guns is very quick, less than a minute. The barrel stop moves about 1/2" and you remove the trigger side insert for the M&P 9. The Girsan only uses one small side shim.
M&P before the trim job.
This really allows the Girsan to sparkle!
